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Old 09-01-2002, 11:37 AM   #1 (permalink)
Stang_ROTY
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Question Proper front end alignment = better E.T.'s??

I stopped at my favorite gas station (the only one where I can get 94 Octane) and the owner stopped to talk to me about my Stang. He's a local drag and cicle track racer and he immediately noticed that my front end is way off alignement. He told me that my camber was way off on the driver's front side and he suggested that I get an alignment ASAP. He also checked out my timeslip and said that I could expect at least .3 drop in E.T. when the front end is aligned right. What do you guys think? Is there a relationship between a properly aligned front end and E.T.??
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Best E.T. - 12.41/Best MPH = 108
Engine is a 1969 351 block w/393 stroker kit. Dynamic Roller Myte C4, 8 pt cage. Edlebrock Performer heads and Victor Jr. EFI, FRPP 30lb injectors & Cartech fuel system. MSD ignition. Sothside Machine bars & Sub-frames, adj. upper's, 3.73's, Koni rear shocks, much more
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Old 09-01-2002, 12:58 PM   #2 (permalink)
gofastmercury
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You bet!
If the car is trying to push 2 wheels facing each other, you can imagine that would slow you down. I set my Comet at 0 toe 0 camber and as much caster as I can get in it, with the front end lifted about 2 inches. This was worth about .15. But it had a good alignment to begin with. This car also does not see street duty, it does handle a little twichy, but it gives me somthing to do as I go down the track.
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corrects to:13.86@100
66 merc comet351w, isky roller 600 lift 268/260@.050, vic jr. 700DP, 5000stall, 4.56's c-4, 3400lbs with driver
12.3@110 @ 4000ft 1.69 60 ft
corrects to:11.69@115
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Old 09-01-2002, 04:46 PM   #3 (permalink)
bigblockcoupe
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alignment will also affect the way the car handles around curves and just everyday driving get it aligned and i bet you will notice a huge difference in cornering capabilities but in how tight the steering feels also as well as th 1/4 mile gains and increased fuel economy.
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Old 09-01-2002, 11:00 PM   #4 (permalink)
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my street car the twin turbo is set up close to stock but my drag only car was set up with 165lbs in the drivers seat and the front end lifted about 4 inches the shop sets up alot of drag cars and it goes alot straighter so that was a 5mph gain do to not fighting the car down the track also my street car was set with 165 my weight in the drivers seat. hey they do it to my bros porche so it does make sense.
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Old 09-02-2002, 05:26 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Yeah, an alignment makes a big difference. You usually want a couple degrees neg. camber, alot of caster, and toe-in about a half inch.

Take care,
~Chris
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Old 09-02-2002, 03:12 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Default drag race settings...

I have mine setup at -1.5 camber, +5 caster (you want as much as you can get), and 1/16" toe-in.

With front end lifted/suspension maxed-out before the tires leave the ground the tires look like this |----| ...with the car sitting at ride height the wheels kinda look like this /----\ ...not exactly an accurate description, but you should get the idea

1/2" toe-in ...I don't think so.
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Old 09-02-2002, 03:48 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Default Re: drag race settings...

Quote:
Originally posted by ultraflo
1/2" toe-in ...I don't think so.
Actually, it's probably been 10 years since I set up the front end for 1/4 mile racing, but I know we went at least 1/4" toe in. We set the toe on the Sprint car at 1/2" toe in, but there's so much play with those damn heim joints, that's really closer to 1/4" once you're moving forward.

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~Chris
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Old 09-02-2002, 03:51 PM   #8 (permalink)
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LOL! ...I hear ya
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Old 09-03-2002, 11:08 AM   #9 (permalink)
Stang_ROTY
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Just got the car back from Sears. I don't know what specs they set the alignment to....maybe I should call back and ask? Either way she feels much better (no steering whell vibration anymore) and I hope it'll help my numbers. I'm really looking forward to hitting the strip again but I'm still under 500 miles on the combo so maybe I should wait?? I'd hate to hurt something because I didn't take enough time to break everything in. Since I'm on the break-in issue, how long do you guys usually wait before you drive the car hard on a regular basis??
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Red 1993 GT Street Machine
Best E.T. - 12.41/Best MPH = 108
Engine is a 1969 351 block w/393 stroker kit. Dynamic Roller Myte C4, 8 pt cage. Edlebrock Performer heads and Victor Jr. EFI, FRPP 30lb injectors & Cartech fuel system. MSD ignition. Sothside Machine bars & Sub-frames, adj. upper's, 3.73's, Koni rear shocks, much more
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Old 09-03-2002, 11:58 AM   #10 (permalink)
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it depends on what you did if you just did bolt ons or heads or intake or anything else short of a new motor i drive it around a little bit then check to make sure it's running cool and not leaking anywhere then i take it out to the highway and flog the crap out of it i don't really break anything in persay except for a new motor.
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Old 09-03-2002, 04:15 PM   #11 (permalink)
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It's all brand new. Last year I had it running with a mild cam (to pass emissions) and I threw a set of bearings due to a overheating problem....that was only after 200 miles. We tore it back down this spring and put a hotter cam in it and a new set of bearings. We broke the cam and lifters, changed the oil, cut the filter to check for bearing debris (held my breath) and I babied it (under 5K rpm's) for about 300-350 miles. Than I took it to the strip once and got a timeslip. Still haven't changed the oil for the second time (am waiting for the 500 mile mark). That's where I am now.
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Red 1993 GT Street Machine
Best E.T. - 12.41/Best MPH = 108
Engine is a 1969 351 block w/393 stroker kit. Dynamic Roller Myte C4, 8 pt cage. Edlebrock Performer heads and Victor Jr. EFI, FRPP 30lb injectors & Cartech fuel system. MSD ignition. Sothside Machine bars & Sub-frames, adj. upper's, 3.73's, Koni rear shocks, much more
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Old 09-03-2002, 05:16 PM   #12 (permalink)
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sounds like your taking it easy on it it's good to be careful i just did the same thing with the bearings because of an overheating problem my oil pressure went to crap in a matter of days and i drained the oil which only had about 100 miles on it and had a whole bunch of fine silver particles in it i put new oil in and a new filter on but haven't tackled tearing it apart yet because of time constraints i will probably tear it down this weekend i figure it's the main bearings but i'm going to replace rods while i have it apart. what did you find when you tore yours back down.
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Old 09-03-2002, 08:17 PM   #13 (permalink)
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When I tore it back down this spring we didn't find a thing. The filter was completely clean. My engine builder said he was very happy. He said the first time he did it (last year) he knew something went wrong cause it had a ton of copper in it. By the way, do you think it's a good idea to use a synthetic oil (like Mobil1) when I change it this time?? Or do I need to wait a little longer (like around 1500 miles)??
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Best E.T. - 12.41/Best MPH = 108
Engine is a 1969 351 block w/393 stroker kit. Dynamic Roller Myte C4, 8 pt cage. Edlebrock Performer heads and Victor Jr. EFI, FRPP 30lb injectors & Cartech fuel system. MSD ignition. Sothside Machine bars & Sub-frames, adj. upper's, 3.73's, Koni rear shocks, much more
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Old 09-03-2002, 08:54 PM   #14 (permalink)
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i usually recommened synthetic after 1500 miles that way everything is seated well.
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Old 09-05-2002, 08:40 AM   #15 (permalink)
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When you mean "everything is seated well" are you referring to the bearings, rings, etc.?? I'm just curious. Also, what is the best Synthetic on the market for a new engine??
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Red 1993 GT Street Machine
Best E.T. - 12.41/Best MPH = 108
Engine is a 1969 351 block w/393 stroker kit. Dynamic Roller Myte C4, 8 pt cage. Edlebrock Performer heads and Victor Jr. EFI, FRPP 30lb injectors & Cartech fuel system. MSD ignition. Sothside Machine bars & Sub-frames, adj. upper's, 3.73's, Koni rear shocks, much more
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Old 09-05-2002, 09:03 AM   #16 (permalink)
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yeah sorry i didn't make that clear i like valvoline synthetic myself but i think pretty much they are all about the same the valvoline is just a pretty clear oil to start with so you can easily tell when it starts to get dirty.
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