pulled engine....pulled out wallet....a true story!
 

have any of you had this happen:
I decided that i wanted to re-seal my engine since it was leaking 1 quart of oil every 150 miles.

I told myself "well since i'm in there i'll just...". Long story short i ordered a trick flow intake manifold, windage tray, complete engine re-seal set (The good updated ford reseal stuff), timing chain/sprocket set and i had already bought tune-up stuff and as well i was going to put on my exhaust, smog idler bracket and subframe connectors.

Several days later after pulling the engine i tell myself "well, i guess i'll need to replace" heater core hoses (the clamps are the devil....i cut the hoses) and i decided to replace the thermostat, and i noticed that my clutch (most likely Ford original) was 99% worn out....almost to the rivets past most of the gripping surface. So i ordered a centerforce II pressure plate and clutch as well as a BBK adjustable clutch quadrant ("since i'm in there").

I get the engine on the stand today and pull everything off except for the heads, which i'm not going to pull. Lo and behold what do i see....the previous owner had "re-sealed" it before which is probably why the engine leaks. He used those Scotch-brite abrasive pads to remove the intake manifold gaskets, and also forgot to put in the PCV valve grommet on the intake manifold (oh yes, it was sucking in pure dirt from that 1 1/2" hole!). I found as i anticipated an excessive amount of play in the timing chain....no problem i had planned for that. Then as I pulled the #3 main bearing I felt my jaw clench as i stared in horror. The bearing was almost ALL COPPER. It had inconsistant streaks and deep marks in the bearing, which as i wasn't surprised indicated grit in the oil. So.....Now i "get to" replace the rod and main bearings seeing as they're both worn from the crap in the oil.
Moral of the story.......1. make sure you have ALOT more money than you anticipate you'll need when digging into your car
2. Even though a Ford Heavy Line technician owned a vehicle before you (the guy only does engine work) it doesn't mean that they're even somewhat competent by any means.
3. Getting off your duff and doing something can actually aid you from having to do things later.....the things that i caught was the worn out clutch, worn out timing chain, and worn out bearings. I was planning on this being a smooth operation taking only a week to do at home in my spare time to get ready to race it this next weekend, but it will take quite a bit longer than that unfortunately.

....that's the end of my rant,
Rick Haugseth

I'm sorry to hear about your rocky path to rebuild! But at least this way you know it's going to be done right this time.
Good luck!
thad

Man that is a very scary story considering I'm planing to do some "minor" work on my car this winter. I guess maybe I should ensure that I have a few grand in the bank just in case.

Good advise.

I've got a similar rant. You'll see in my sig that I've got a bunch of parts sitting around waiting to be put in. I do the majority of the work on my car despite being a beginning engine builder. I have a problem with breaking bolts and stuff. The stang has been non-functional the majority of the winter now. My goal is to have her running well by the middle of next month. Everytime I start working I break something and end up needing another part. Or find out while working that I need a part that I didn't order. Something always seems to go wrong. Besides that I have almost no time to do it, and am short on money time to time.

I do have a question about engine sealing for anyone that can help. I think I am going to end up doing head gaskets. What is the best way to clean gasket off the block deck. Will it need to be machined for straightness? And what is the best way to seal the intake manifold. What kind of sealer if any does everyone use?

Man, that kind of sucks. But at least you'll have exactly waht you wanted when you are done.

7000rpm, I just used a gasket scraper, wire wheel and really fine sand paper to prep my block for the new heads I put on. I didn't do any machining or anything, just covered the holes in the bock so nothing got into it and made generous use of my shop vac after every step to ensure any filings and grit were removed. I also made generous use of oil to flush the block well before i sealed it back up, and changed it again after starting it up and running it for about 15 minutes.
As far as the intake i just used the fel pro 1250 gasket and the cork thingamabobs with the hi temp rtv sealing around the waterjackets and each corner where the cork met the intake gaskets.

That was kind'a like me this year...

I was gonna add $1K off the shelf heads. Done. But nooooo:eek:
I went out and got TFS TW Stage-II ported heads. Well, already in there, and a cam is easy, so I'll do the TFS cam. Now the heads/cam, might get that TFS Street Heat intake to match. THrow in the matching valvecovers so they clear the 1.6rr. And order the pushrods, and gaskets, and oh yeah the new 42# fuel injectors for the combo. And factor in the recalibration of the MAF for 42's, and then the reprogramming of the custom chip for the S-trim already installed.... :eek:
THen there is that pile of parts I have been saving for a rainy day, like the full length JetHot headers, and FMS dampner, and main girdle, and 65mm TB, and p/s pump relocation...

Pulled the RAM disk and pp for a resurface and rebuild for the TKO too.


Should be one heck of a car when I am done though!!! :D :D :D

Well I used a wire brush on a drill to get the deck perfectly clean. I had a chicken and egg problem. I did head gaskets before and then water pump and I think I am going to do head just one more time. I am going to get the heads checked again and I guess I'll get the intake checked also just to be sure. But It would make it a much bigger job, as I don't plan on taking the block out of the car to do this, if something is wrong with the block.