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Pulling codes - Please help!!!!!!
Just hooked up a scanner to my car and got 34, 66, and 91.
34 was EGR valve position, sensor or pressure. 66 was Mass air sensor voltage too low. And 91 is O2 sensors, which I already bought so this one should go away I hope. Any thoughts? Here are the mods that would have anything to do with this... • 76mm C&L MAF • 24lb SVO injectors • Walbo 190lph fuel pump • 65mm Explorer TB • MAC cold air kit • K&N air filter • GT-40 intake • Ported stock ET7E heads - 3 angle valve job - shaved .030 • F303 cam • 1.6 roller rockers • Crane valve springs • MAC 1 5/8" long tube headers • MAC 2 1/2" Pro Chamber • MAC 2 1/2" cat back with chrome tips • MSD Blaster coil • Taylor Spiro Pro plug wires Thanks! ------------------ Too much to list. Best ET on the car so far with stock 2.73 gears - 13.73@102mph Indiana Stangers Association Buy your parts here ICQ# 42269241 |
Update:
The first test was with engine off. The test with engine on shows codes 33, 44, and 94. 44 and 94 have to do with the thermactors which I no longer have and the holes are plugged in the heads. 33 is another EGR problem. ------------------ Too much to list. Best ET on the car so far with stock 2.73 gears - 13.73@102mph Indiana Stangers Association Buy your parts here ICQ# 42269241 |
dont sweat the thermactor and egr codes. try resetting computer to see if 02 code goes away. Might need a maf meter? are u having driveability problems?
------------------ 1993 GT/AOD '93 Mustang GT |
The car bucks from 1600rpm and down when driving. It also surges at idle. It had the surging idle before all these mods went on (engine was stock), but the bucking problem is new with the mods.
The exhaust seems to be running very hot and smells like unburnt fuel so I think it's running rich too. I have new O2 sensors and am going to try resetting the idle/TPS/computer, and get a new fuel filter and see what that does. Adjustable FPR is on the way too. Does it sound like I'm on the right track? ------------------ Too much to list. Best ET on the car so far with stock 2.73 gears - 13.73@102mph Indiana Stangers Association Buy your parts here ICQ# 42269241 |
I'm running a 75mm Pro-M bullet with 24lb injectors and used to have a surging idle. Also, my car would die right away when trying to start it on a cold morning. After playing with the tps (.98v) and idle (600 - 700 RPMs on factory tach) my car idles perfectly and always starts up on the first try no matter how cold it is outside.
------------------ 1989 lx notch 89,000 miles bolt-ons,stock heads/cam 60'- 2.07, 8.90@78, 13.93@99 [This message has been edited by TJR (edited 05-28-2001).] |
Kevin- It's sounds like you are on the right track. What do your plugs look like? If it's pig rich like you describe they should be black, check them after a quick trip at WOT and that will tell you if they are rich or lean.
Since I got my car running good all the issues I blamed on the C&L are gone, smooth idle, well as smooth as it gets with the cam I have. I'm going to have my friends frend powder coat it, it does tend to soak the heat up from the headers though. I took a ride in Mondo's car last night, whew man what 750HP+ will do for ya, it saw about 23psi of boost and we were gone, I had to take him for a ride in mine to show him what a real car felt like http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/biggrin.gif. ------------------ Check Out My Site 91GT,Holley SysteMAX II Kit-Heads 2.02" x 1.60" port matched to a 1262,Anderson N-61,24#,76mm C&L,Full MAC exhaust 1-5/8" Long tubes,2-1/2" O.R H-Pipe,2 1/2" cat back, No A/C or PS or emissions, 12" K&N Filter,RNH PERFORMANCE Ram Air,Ron Davis Radiator,Full Suspension,S&W 8pt "X" brace,JAZ seats,3:73's,Welds..etc,4:30's and 31 splines coming very soon! |
He was telling me about that Rick. Man, I'll bet that was fun http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/biggrin.gif
I'll go take the car for a drive at WOT and see what the plugs look like. We kinda have it narrowed down to the O2 sensors causing most of the problem. We read in the code we were getting on them that when the O2's go bad they detect a lean condition and compensate rich to make up for it which sounds exactly like what my car is doing. Hopefully the C&L meter is fine because I don't want to have to pull this nicely machined meter off of here and stick a piece of plastic on there. Oh yeah, does anyone know about that code 66 I got? It said mass air sensor voltage too low? Is that a bad mass air sensor? How can I find out? ------------------ Too much to list. Best ET on the car so far with stock 2.73 gears - 13.73@102mph Indiana Stangers Association Buy your parts here ICQ# 42269241 [This message has been edited by 2FastLX (edited 05-29-2001).] |
troubleshoot your mass air meter. Buy a book with the proper voltages, a multi-meter, and knock yourself out.
------------------ 1993 GT/AOD '93 Mustang GT |
Kevin- do you have the Probst Fuel injection book? If not since you and your brother are going to do more on the side get it, I think Jegs still sells it. It's great and has all the wiring schematics and tells you how to test all the componets. It could be your stock electronics and not the C&L piece itself, does any of your friends have their stock meter laying around you could try that.
------------------ Check Out My Site 91GT,Holley SysteMAX II Kit-Heads 2.02" x 1.60" port matched to a 1262,Anderson N-61,24#,76mm C&L,Full MAC exhaust 1-5/8" Long tubes,2-1/2" O.R H-Pipe,2 1/2" cat back, No A/C or PS or emissions, 12" K&N Filter,RNH PERFORMANCE Ram Air,Ron Davis Radiator,Full Suspension,S&W 8pt "X" brace,JAZ seats,3:73's,Welds..etc,4:30's and 31 splines coming very soon! |
Kevin- do you have the Probst Fuel injection book? If not since you and your brother are going to do more on the side get it, I think Jegs still sells it. It's great and has all the wiring schematics and tells you how to test all the componets. It could be your stock electronics and not the C&L piece itself, does any of your friends have their stock meter laying around you could try that.
------------------ Check Out My Site 91GT,Holley SysteMAX II Kit-Heads 2.02" x 1.60" port matched to a 1262,Anderson N-61,24#,76mm C&L,Full MAC exhaust 1-5/8" Long tubes,2-1/2" O.R H-Pipe,2 1/2" cat back, No A/C or PS or emissions, 12" K&N Filter,RNH PERFORMANCE Ram Air,Ron Davis Radiator,Full Suspension,S&W 8pt "X" brace,JAZ seats,3:73's,Welds..etc,4:30's and 31 splines coming very soon! |
Well, I installed new O2 sensors and drove it to work and it didn't make a bit of difference until I drove the car home. Then it got worse than it has ever been bucking from 2300rpm and down now. The idle seems to be a little better maybe, but not much.
I still have to re-check the TPS but I know it was set at .98 since it was just set not too long ago. Timing is at 14 degrees. Plugs look black as hell. I guess I'm going to buy the new electronics for the mass air and see what that does. After that I'm going to get the FPR. If that doesn't work I'm yanking this stuff back off and going back to stock http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/frown.gif Much more of this and I'll be ready to sell this damn thing. ------------------ Too much to list. Best ET on the car so far with stock 2.73 gears - 13.73@102mph Indiana Stangers Association Buy your parts here ICQ# 42269241 [This message has been edited by 2FastLX (edited 05-30-2001).] |
BLASPHEMY!!! Don't be talking like that Kevin, we WILL figure this out! http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/wink.gif I understand your frustration but we will get it figured out. I have an Air Adjuster you can borrow to see if it is in the mass air calibtration... Is your EGR hooked up? hang in there bud, we will get it resolved. http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/cool.gif
------------------ 92GT all the free stuff and a few bolt-ons, lowered with Ebiach's and Koni's, Kenny Brown subframe connectors, lower G-brace and jacking rails. BBK upper and lower control arms, polyurethane bushings all around and Ken Bell blower, ram-air, 80mm mass air, etc. |
Yes, it is VERY frustrating. After the head gaskets blew it has been one problem after another for the past 2 months now. Nothing in this combo seems to be working well with each other and it seems like the more I drive the car the worse it all gets. The engine just doesn't sound right either. It sounds like it could just throw a rod bearing at any time, but maybe that's just me. When I shut the car down it acts like it just stops as soon as I turn off the key like it's overheating, but the cooling system is working great. Maybe that's just the added compression (which isn't much) but it doesn't sound good. Not to mention the transmission issues and the fact that I now have to remove the front cover again to fix a damn coolant leak.
How bout I just leave her sit until you get yours done Mark then I'll drive it up there and leave it for you to play with http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/biggrin.gif ------------------ Too much to list. Best ET on the car so far with stock 2.73 gears - 13.73@102mph Indiana Stangers Association Buy your parts here ICQ# 42269241 |
as you well know, i know how your feeling, well maybe not quite as pissed, when you installed your O2 sensors did you reset your computer by disconnecting the battery for about 15 minutes? i put a set of them on a friends car and forgot to do that, the thing ran like crap and was throwing flames out the pipes, give it a try, and for god sakes DONT SELL YOUR CAR!!!!!!
------------------ 88 Notch, 3.73's, Ported E7's, Explorer int. w/ ported lower, pulleys, 1.7RR's, BBK headers, off-road H-pipe, flowmasters, subframe connectors, 65mm TB, shift kit, March ram air ,MSD coil, U/L control arms, 155lph fuel pump, cheap 2800 stall, Crane Adj.FPR, best 1/4--> 13.77@101.35 |
Don't sell your car Kevin. Hang in there, this is just the crap some of us have to go threw when building motors. When you get it all worked out you will have a grin from ear to ear.
------------------ 347 W/ A-trim 6#'s, Canfield heads, out of the box Systemax II intake, solid roller cam. 11.1 @123mph 1.46 60FT 93lx 5.0 daily driver MY CAR http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/...splay.cgi?1288 |
How much vacuum are you pulling at idle? My car experienced alot of the same symptoms: terrible idle; bucking; dumping gas out of the tailpipes; etc.... Turns out I had a bad vacuum leak. The O2's didnt like all the extra air the engine was sucking AFTER the mass air meter....... of course thats just my opinion, i could be wrong.
andy |
I've been thinking about it being a vacuum leak myself because I've noticed the brake booster seems to quit working sometimes at idle. I'm going to pic up a vacuum tester tonight and see. How much should I have at idle?
The car ran a little better yesterday. No idea why because I never touched it. As for resetting the computer Drew, that was done before starting the car back up after the O2 swap so that's not it. I'm going to order an FPR tomorrow and buy a few other thing to try in the meantime. ------------------ Too much to list. Best ET on the car so far with stock 2.73 gears - 13.73@102mph Indiana Stangers Association Buy your parts here ICQ# 42269241 [This message has been edited by 2FastLX (edited 05-31-2001).] |
It should be up around 15 inches at idle. Pick up a can of flammable brake cleaner (or carb cleaner;ether, etc...) spray it around the mounting flange of the upper to lower, and around the t/b to upper. You might even want to try looking around the (lower intake to head) area as well. Let us know what you find out.
andy |
I just told my brother today that it might be an upper to lower intake leak. There was one bolt that was kinda stripped out when I bought this intake.
So am I supposed to spray the cleaner around the intake with the car running to see if the idle changes? Thanks for all the help guys. Stay with me until we get this thing sorted out! ------------------ Too much to list. Best ET on the car so far with stock 2.73 gears - 13.73@102mph Indiana Stangers Association Buy your parts here ICQ# 42269241 |
Thats correct. If you have a leak it will idle up.
andy |
Man, it sounds like more than a few of us stangers in Indiana are having problmes..Must be the air.
------------------ 347 Stroker Motor: Balanced, A9P Computer, Cobra Transmission, Extrude Ported and Polished Upper and ported Lower, GT40 Milled Ported and Polished Heads, B303 Cam, BBK 1 5/8 Headers, 30lb Bosch Injectors, Holley Fuel Regulator, March Underdrive Pulleys, Perma-Cool Fan, 3-Core Radiator, Accel Performance Coil, Accel 300+ Racing Wires, Ram Air, K&N Filter, 79mm Mass Air Unit, FlowMaster Exhaust w/BBK Offroad H-Pipe, Hurst Short Throw Shifter, 3:55 Gears, Ram Clutch, Cross Drilled Rotors, AC del |
Well, I didn't get anything done to the car yet because I was too busy at work tonight. I will hopefully know something by this weekend. I'll be up Saturday morning Mark.
------------------ Too much to list. Best ET on the car so far with stock 2.73 gears - 13.73@102mph Indiana Stangers Association Buy your parts here ICQ# 42269241 |
2FastLX - Check the harnesses going to your O2 sensors. When I put in my first set of headers one of the harnesses got pushed up against the header and shorted. The computer threw out a code (don't remember which) that indicated "always reads lean" on the KOER test and ran really rich till I found the burned cable and fixed it. DON'T SELL THE CAR!
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you might wanna try an ect sensor, my car wouldn't idle below 1200 rpm and would spit raw fuel out the dumps at idle, and would run real rich at idle as well. mine also seemed like it was overheating the whole time. once i changed that sensor it ran perfect. good luck!! and don't give up, i was on the verge of selling mine as well......
------------------ 94 cobra, steeda tri-ax, ultra flo's 14.2 @ 99 (stock) |
Damn one day I check and you are looking for info on codes the next time I check it's I'm going to sell this thing...
Don't worry Kev it's most likely something simple and you'll find it. I have a damn oil leak and my 3K mile King Cobra clutch is slipping. So either the rear seal blew and got oil all over the clutch or the rear of the pan is leaking, I was too pissed to play with it yesterday, guess I'm not heading to the track tonight for my first runs http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/frown.gif. ------------------ Check Out My Site 91GT,Holley SysteMAX II Kit-Heads 2.02" x 1.60" port matched to a 1262,Anderson N-61,24#,76mm C&L,Full MAC exhaust 1-5/8" Long tubes,2-1/2" O.R H-Pipe,2 1/2" cat back, No A/C or PS or emissions, 12" K&N Filter,RNH PERFORMANCE Ram Air,Ron Davis Radiator,Full Suspension,S&W 8pt "X" brace,JAZ seats,3:73's,Welds..etc,4:30's and 31 splines coming very soon! |
I was pretty pi$$ed that day Rick http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/mad.gif
Anyway, the car came out of it somewhat and is back to the way it was just before the O2 install. It still runs like crap, but at least it's drivable. The car has tons of power when you get on it and it doesn't hesitate a bit. What is the ECT sensor and where is it located? Is there any way to test it? Also, how much do they run? ------------------ Too much to list. Best ET on the car so far with stock 2.73 gears - 13.73@102mph Indiana Stangers Association Buy your parts here ICQ# 42269241 |
All right. Now I'm really pi$$ed!
We checked everything we could think of over the last 2 days and we found a problem that is yet to be explained. My vacuum is only running 5 inches at idle http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/mad.gif We checked the compression and it was between 140 to 150lbs. So we thought maybe it was because the rockers aren't letting the valves close all the way so we tested the compression with the car idling and it was fine. When you give it gas the compression drops to around 90lbs then goes back up at idle. Is that normal?? Any other suggestions on how to diagnose a low vacuum problem? Thanks for all the help guys!! ------------------ Too much to list. Best ET on the car so far with stock 2.73 gears - 13.73@102mph Indiana Stangers Association Buy your parts here ICQ# 42269241 |
Kev buddy something is F****D UP, 5" of hg at idle aint **** , is your brake pedal stiff? My old cam only pulled 9" and my pedal was stiff and I had to hit the brakes to make the brake booster work. That cam should pull atleast 15", you have a leak or something somewhere. Let me sleep on it and think...
------------------ Check Out My Site 91GT,Holley SysteMAX II Kit-Heads 2.02" x 1.60" port matched to a 1262,Anderson N-61,24#,76mm C&L,Full MAC exhaust 1-5/8" Long tubes,2-1/2" O.R H-Pipe,2 1/2" cat back, No A/C or PS or emissions, 12" K&N Filter,RNH PERFORMANCE Ram Air,Ron Davis Radiator,Full Suspension,S&W 8pt "X" brace,JAZ seats,3:73's,Welds..etc,4:30's and 31 splines coming very soon! |
Where are you testing for vacuum?
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Sell It. Some vacuum line or hose is obviously disconnected, or cam timing is WAAY out.
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We checked everywhere for a vacuum line not connected and couldn't find a thing wrong. If there was a leak leaking that much vacuum you'd think you'd be able to hear it pretty good because you can hear the 5 inches it's pulling when you remove a vac line. We checked the vacuum in a few different places I believe ( I was operating the clutch pedal and key http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/smile.gif ).
We also tried spraying carb cleaner around the intake to check for leaks and it was fine. Cam timing is on the money. I installed the timing gears myself and know they were lined up. The car wouldn't run as good as it does at WOT if it wasn't. The car runs great once it gets up in the RPM's, and just sputters in the lower end. If the cam timing is off it can't be more than a tooth which wouldn't cause this much of a vac problem anyway. But I know it's not off even a tooth. Would it help to start plgging off every vacuum line I can until I find the one that is causing the problems? I still have to try pinching off the vac hose to the booster to see if that fixes the problem. I will do that tonight at work. ------------------ Too much to list. Best ET on the car so far with stock 2.73 gears - 13.73@102mph Indiana Stangers Association Buy your parts here ICQ# 42269241 |
I just remembered something...
My cruise control doesn't work and I was told a long time ago (when the car was stock) that it could be a vacuum line off in the fender. I'll have to pull that fender tonight and see what I can find. Is this very hard to do? ------------------ Too much to list. Best ET on the car so far with stock 2.73 gears - 13.73@102mph Indiana Stangers Association Buy your parts here ICQ# 42269241 |
Kevin, I think it would be a good idea to start plugging up every vacuum port one by one until vacuum is normal. That should give you a good idea of which one it is. Start with the big lines since it seems like it would be a pretty big leak.
Also, get another vacuum tester and make sure that yours is accurate or use the one you have on a friend's Mustang to see if it registers what you would expect. ------------------ 351W 89 Mustang GT Convertible |
Well, I've narrowed it down to absolutely no idea whatsoever. It has to be internal because with only one vac line left open it still has no vacuum at idle. Could it maybe be my exhaust has no back pressure? I'm lost.
------------------ Too much to list. Best ET on the car so far with stock 2.73 gears - 13.73@102mph Indiana Stangers Association Buy your parts here ICQ# 42269241 |
Not sure if you thought of or checked this stuff but I will mention it any way. I know you checked the upper to lower gasket for a leak, but what about the lower intake gaskets. It happened to me before, it was drawing air from the lifter valley because of a bad gasket. You would think if that were the case your plugs readings would not be the same but they were.
I'm not trying to insult you by saying this one, but there is a huge vacum port on the bottom of the upper intake for the PVC. the hose may of sliped off during the installation. 5' of vacum is way to low it has to be getting air from someware. ------------------ 347 W/ A-trim 6#'s, Canfield heads, out of the box Systemax II intake, solid roller cam. 11.1 @123mph 1.46 60FT 93lx 5.0 daily driver MY CAR http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/...splay.cgi?1288 |
Kevin- I was looking through some old Automotive adn Chilton manuals last night. If your vacuum is staying consistantly low at 5 and does not vary it points to the intake leaking, there are so many things that effect vacuum like bad rings, valve seals, valve timing, cam timing, leaky head gasket, manifold etc.... but if the intake is leaking vacuum will be consitantly 9-10 points low. I alwyas pull vacuum off the empty port on the vacuum tree, how does your brake pedal feel when it is sitting at idle? WIth only 5" it should be stiff because my old cam only pulled 9-10" of hg at idle and that is not enough to operate the power brakes. http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/smile.gif
------------------ Check Out My Site 91GT,Holley SysteMAX II Kit-Heads 2.02" x 1.60" port matched to a 1262,Anderson N-61,24#,76mm C&L,Full MAC exhaust 1-5/8" Long tubes,2-1/2" O.R H-Pipe,2 1/2" cat back, No A/C or PS or emissions, 12" K&N Filter,RNH PERFORMANCE Ram Air,Ron Davis Radiator,Full Suspension,S&W 8pt "X" brace,JAZ seats,3:73's,Welds..etc,4:30's and 31 splines coming very soon! |
We sprayed the carb cleaner all around the upper and lower intake. If it was sucking any air in there it would have shown up I would think.
And yeah, my brake booster quits completely at idle. ------------------ Too much to list. Best ET on the car so far with stock 2.73 gears - 13.73@102mph Indiana Stangers Association Buy your parts here ICQ# 42269241 |
I just wanted to revive this topic to let you guys know I think we have it narrowed down to the valve lash. We checked the compression while it was running, but only did this on one cylinder. I was talking to my boss yesterday who used to be the head guy on an Indy car pit crew and he told me to check the valve lash. He said if only a couple valves were staying open it would cause vacuum problems. This has been one of my concerns ever since we got the car back together because we really kinda guessed at setting the rockers so I'm betting this is the problem. I will update this as soon as I know for sure.
Thanks for all the help guys!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ------------------ Too much to list. Best ET on the car so far with stock 2.73 gears - 13.73@102mph Indiana Stangers Association Buy your parts here ICQ# 42269241 |
damn, i was about to offer you $1000 for it too. http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/frown.gif
oh well. http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/smile.gif just kidding! keep us informed. Q ------------------ Quin, 87 GT,306,forged/cut pistons,edelbrock head\intake,steeda#18cam,1.7rr,MSD Blaster tfi coil,A9L,pro-m75mm,24#inj,accufab65mm,2.5"pipes,hooker headers,dynomax exhaust,3.73 gr,110 lph fp,moroso cold air,ASP pullies, weld rims See my engine on user rides. I see your shwartz is as big as mine, now lets see how well you handle it! |
What do you mean, "you guessed" on setting lifter preload? They should be 1/4 to 1/2 turn from zero lash. In other words, tighten the rockers up just until you cant turn the pushrods, then go another 1/4 to 1/2 turn.
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he has adjustable rockers and "guessed" at how to adjust them, also tightening the rockers till the pushrod wont turn is NOT the correct way of doing it, i tested this out when i did mine, i could get all the way to the reccomended torque and they would still turn, the right way to do it is to move the pushrod up and down until all lash is out then if it torques down to the setting within 1/4-3/4 turns it is ok, but if it doesnt torque down then it needs a shim
------------------ 88 Notch, 3.73's, Ported E7's, Explorer int. w/ ported lower, pulleys, 1.7RR's, BBK headers, off-road H-pipe, flowmasters, subframe connectors, 65mm TB, shift kit, March ram air ,MSD coil, U/L control arms, 155lph fuel pump, cheap 2800 stall, Crane Adj.FPR, best 1/4--> 13.77@101.35 |
I don't know where all this shimming stuff comes about because my rockers have an adjuster screw right above the pushrod. I was told to just torque the pedastal bolt down, then adjust the set screw over the pushrod until the pushrod starts to feel like it's making contact, then go another 1/4 to 1/2 turn. I eyeballed the adjuster screw moving 1/4 to 1/2 turn which looked to be between .020 and .040 which is what I was told the preload should be. So, we went 1/2 turn I think. My brother did the adjusting while I watched.
Quin, I may be looking to sell the complete engine and exhaust in a couple months if you were being serious. I'd like to be able to get at least $1700 for the complete engine and the full exhaust system from the long tube headers to the cat back. ------------------ Too much to list. Best ET on the car so far with stock 2.73 gears - 13.73@102mph Indiana Stangers Association Buy your parts here ICQ# 42269241 |
the shimming is needed sometimes with the NON-adjustable rockers
------------------ 88 Notch, 3.73's, Ported E7's, Explorer int. w/ ported lower, pulleys, 1.7RR's, BBK headers, off-road H-pipe, flowmasters, subframe connectors, 65mm TB, shift kit, March ram air ,MSD coil, U/L control arms, 155lph fuel pump, cheap 2800 stall, Crane Adj.FPR, best 1/4--> 13.77@101.35 |
Yeah, that would make sense that you would have to shim with non-adjustables. But I had people telling me that with my adjustables I might have to shim them even. I even got instruction for the rockers (Omega's) and they said that, but that is just silly. Why buy adjustables if you still have to shim them?
Mark (stangsrule) and I were just talking last night and he mentioned that maybe my lifters had bled off and we adjusted them before they were pumped up. This is what we did http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/mad.gif My question now is... should I pull my heads to check for burnt valves? The engine has at least 3000 miles on it since the rebuild. ------------------ Too much to list. Best ET on the car so far with stock 2.73 gears - 13.73@102mph Indiana Stangers Association Buy your parts here ICQ# 42269241 |
Hey fiveoh, as youre tightening up the rockers and you get to the point of zero lash, right then you should feel resistance when turning the pushrod. Thats what I mean when I say "you cant turn them anymore". After the lifters bleed off you will be able to turn them again. 2fast: I think the reason for possibly having to shim your adjustables is, there might not be enough adjustment in the adjuster to make up for the difference in the size of every cam's base circle.
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ooops!
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