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06-21-2002, 12:12 PM | #1 |
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Pulling Engine
I am pulling my engine soon... to put in a new motor but i was wondering what the easiest way to do it is, do u take the trans off, or keep it on that is what i heard. I have 87 mustang 5spd gt
thanks alot raini
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87-ford-mustang-SOLD! mods: 3:73's, off road h-pipe, b303 cam in gt- 40 motor w/ Power Plus intake, edelbrock 70mm tb & egr spacer, 72mm C&L, bbk long tubes, tremec tranny, centerforce dual friction clutch, upr and lwr CA's 255lph FP and soon more to come.... when i have money again SOME ADVICE Don't do burn outs in reverse it is very expensive New times with dead hook on dr's 13.27@103 with 2.0 60 foots w/100lb system Fastest time to date: 12.8@113 |
06-21-2002, 02:56 PM | #2 |
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Just did this not too long ago. Keep the trans connected but you will need a engine leveler attached to your hoist. The leveler came with the hoist I bought at Costco. When the engine strats to come out of the engine bay you can tilt it more downward then level it off once it comes out. I could't imagine doing this without one. It was my first engine that I ever removed......Alot of Fun!
Goodluck!! |
06-21-2002, 06:28 PM | #3 |
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It's easy enough to do with a helper. If you leave the transmission attached, the engine will naturally tilt down on the transmission end.
I've done all my pulling with a chain hoist. Just make sure you check and make sure all the connections have been removed. I like to make sure the engine is moving freely every few inches or so. |
06-21-2002, 07:52 PM | #4 |
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If you use a cherry picker, make sure all the debris that has fallen on the ground while getting ready to pull the engine is swept up. Nothing sucks more than a cheap hoist that starts to buckle because one of the forward casters jambed against a nut that wasn't swept up, and the hoist starts to fall to the side, and the engine takes out the fender.
Or something like that (it's a very long, very forgetful story). Take care, -Chris
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06-22-2002, 01:21 AM | #5 |
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Chris, I wanna see some pictures of that disaster
Wouldn't it be a little easier to unbolt the tranny from the bellhousing and just pull the motor/bellhousing assembly out? This way you dont have to mess with dropping the h-pipe, driveshaft and tranny mount. Well I guess you wouldnt HAVE to drop the h-pipe if the tranny were going out the top, but it would probably be easier that way. I ask because I'll be pulling my motor in a few weeks and wondered what experience has taught some of you guys. I've pulled the motor before, but thats when it was an AOD. And I wouldn't have been fun to pull that slushbox out with it attached to the motor. what would you reccomend? (sorry to take over your threaddrtbiker )
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NMRA O/C 9516 NA pumpgas stickshift 347 10.65@125.6, 6.73@100, 1.41 60ft |
06-22-2002, 02:14 AM | #6 | |
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Quote:
Take care, -Chris
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06-22-2002, 10:17 AM | #7 | |
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Quote:
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06-22-2002, 03:27 PM | #8 |
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4 layers of Siran Wrap, and a couple rubber bands, will keep the fluid from coming out the tail of the tranny.
Take care, -Chris
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06-24-2002, 11:57 AM | #9 |
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thanks guys much appreciated, just a couple more questions how did u guys mark all of the wires and hoses? That looks like the biggest pain. I am going to pull it ou when i get back from vacation in about a week ill let u guys know how it went.
thanks again, Raini
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87-ford-mustang-SOLD! mods: 3:73's, off road h-pipe, b303 cam in gt- 40 motor w/ Power Plus intake, edelbrock 70mm tb & egr spacer, 72mm C&L, bbk long tubes, tremec tranny, centerforce dual friction clutch, upr and lwr CA's 255lph FP and soon more to come.... when i have money again SOME ADVICE Don't do burn outs in reverse it is very expensive New times with dead hook on dr's 13.27@103 with 2.0 60 foots w/100lb system Fastest time to date: 12.8@113 |
06-24-2002, 12:23 PM | #10 |
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Most of the wiring and hoses are bent and formed to where they will only lay one certain way, and most of the connectors are different, so this makes it much easier when putting it all back together.
But on the stuff I didn't think I could remember where it went, I just took small pieces of masking tape and put one on both sides of the connection, then mark the same number on both pieces. so you just have to match the numbers together. They sell tape pieces like that with numbers already on it, but I'm a cheapass
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NMRA O/C 9516 NA pumpgas stickshift 347 10.65@125.6, 6.73@100, 1.41 60ft |
06-24-2002, 04:27 PM | #11 |
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Its been covered before in the archives...
I (MANY, many times) pulled the motor/tranny as one unit. Found that to be the easiest. This time, I already had the tranny out for service, and decided to upgrade the motor... so I pulled the motor separately.
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