pulling the motor
 

how do I unbolt the engine from the tranny?

bellhousing bolts

if you have to ask, then i don't think you should be trying a job like pulling the motor.

i'm not trying to offend you, just letting you know if you dont have help, you may not be getting it back in there.

good luck though,
-Drew

Not to offend you either, sir, but how is one supposed become experienced without learning how? If every time I asked a question, somebody told me i wouldnt get it, I think i'd be pretty stupid. But if you must know it just so happens i do have someone experienced helping me pull the motor, if that makes you feel any better.

I just pulled my motor out this past weekend. It really wasn't that bad.

I used last weekend to "prep" everything (i.e. pulled the upper intake, disconnected all the sensors, removed the radiator, etc, etc.)

We loosened the four bolts on the bell to the tranny and ended up pulling the motor out with the bell on. Worked out real well.

BTW - the motor mount bolt are on pretty tight (at least mine were) - we used a breaker bar to loosen them.

Good luck,
E

Two schools of thought:
#1. Yank the motor with the trans as one unit (my preference).
http://www.dariusrudis.com/stuff/1999_026.jpg

#2. Yank the tranny first (or leave it in the car), then pull just the motor.
http://www.dariusrudis.com/stuff/2002_122.jpg


"Ignorance is just not knowing, Stupidity is not asking..." :cool:

Drudis, did you post those pics to show off yer engine??



nice

Nah, If I wanted to show off, I'd post this:
http://www.dariusrudis.com/engine.jpg:D :D :D

Drudis - is that the "light Ford blue" color on your block? I'm having my block painted in the next couple weeks and am not sure if I want the light or dark Ford blue color.

Thanks,
E

Eric...
 

I just painted my block and heads dark ford blue this last weekend. I'll post some pics for you next monday. I'll be installing the motor this weekend. Keith

I painted mine dark ford blue, i love that color. As for pulling the engine i prefer to do it with the tranny still on. Same for putting it back in. If you have a hoist with a load leveler its easy to pull everything at once. I can pull my engine in about 2 hours. I love carbs, i have barely anything to prep.

drudis - I got your PM. Thank you.

Keith - If you could post those pictures, that would be great. I would really appreciate it. Thanks in advance!

RoadWarrior - must be nice to have a carb setup! :D Definitely quicker and easier to pull.

Take care,
E

I guess I was asking more of, where are the bolts, how do I get to them, what size, how many, etc... (I want to leave the tranny in the car, it seems simpler)

To be honest with you, it is probably easier to pull the tranny at the same time. Reason being is that the lenght of the input shaft makes it very diffcult to pull the engine out without hitting the oil pan on the K-member. Essentially, you would have to be able to pull the motor forward enough first in order to clear the input shaft, then begin to raise the motor up and out of the engine bay. Problem is, you will hit the bottom of the rear sump on the K-member. Get it?

I can't recall what the size of the bolts are, but any decent set of sockets will have the proper size.

As for location, the bolts that I am speaking of are mounted at the back end of the bellhousing right where the front of the transmission starts.

There are four bolts.

Easiest way to get to them is from under the car.

If you can jack up the car high enough, or have access to a lift, then I would leave the tranny mounted to the engine and pull the whole thing at once. Much easier IMO. I couldn't do this because I didn't have enough clearance on the garage floor (i.e. didn't have the car up high enough).

E

I don't know if it will be easier to pull the whole thing at once (tranny and motor) because he has an AOD which is quite a bit bulkier than a T-5 and also cannot be unbolted from its bellhousing.

The bellhousing will have 6 bolts. 2 can be reached from the top if the upper intake is off and the other 4 can be reached from the bottom. You'll need to unbolt the inspection plate on the bellhousing and turn the motor over to remove the 4 bolts that hold the torque converter to the flex plate(flywheel). Now the torqu converter will stay on the input shaft of the tranny and the motor will be free to pull up and out.

Just remember where everything goes and it should go fine.

good luck

is the inspection plate visible from underneath the car? Does anyone have pictures or maybe even know of a tutorial site?

yes it is easily visible from underneath. It is only held on by like 2 bolts and is a thin metal plate that just keeps debris out of the bellhousing.

Sorry, dont have any pictures for ya

I found it and took off the 4 bolts underneath... so now my motor will just come up with no clearence problems?

you dont have to have the upper intake off to get the top two bolts on the AOD bellhousing. They can be reached with intake on as well as the hood, but you should have your hood off anyway if pulling the motor.

If you have someone experienced helping you, why all the questions? Its kinda hard to explain how to pull a motor over the internet. You can get a chiltons manual or something similar which will tell you all the basic steps you need to follow.

my experienced help is somewhat unreliabls and only one person who seems to always have something better to do.... the chiltons thing isnt a bad idea...

With an AOD, I would lean even MORE to pulling both at the same time.
I only (out of the 20+ times) pulled it this time without the trans, cause the trans came out months before the engine did.
My 351-W and C-4 tranny went in/out altogether.

With a 5-speed, you can unbolt the trans, then unbolt the bellhousing, then only yank the block (as in the photo).
WIth an AOD, its nearly impossible to put the tranny on and line up the torqueconverter and splines for the pump form under the car. TRUST ME!!! Do BOTH together, and bolt the tranny on the floor, and make suer you line everything up, and the motor rotates freely (not binding) when you put the tranny on (#1 thing to get you mad) when you have to do it all over again...

Now i'm really confused... If I unbolt the flexplate from the torque converter, then I wont have to worry about lining up those splines, correct? Just a couple of bolts....

The tranny will have an input shaft. Its THIS shaft that goes into the torqueconverter. VERY hard to do under the car, because:

The torque converter will need to be bolted to the flexplate (bolted to the crank) while its attached to the engine. So you will be slipping the tranny-input-shaft onto the motor/torqueconverter.

why wouldnt you leave the converter installed on the tranny input shaft?

It would make sense to me to do this with the tranny in the car, to simply unbolt the flexplate from the converter, and remove the engine and flexplate together, leaving the tranny and converter still together.

Then simply drop the motor down, and bolt the tranny/converter to the engine/ flexplate respectively.

Am i missing something?

OK (oops) you're right...

I just have been playing with my T5 and TKO too long to remember that you can leave the converter on the tranny, unlike you need to bolt the pressure-plate onto the flywheel (mixing the two installs together, and making no sense...).

so once the motor is out, which would you all recommend?
a) simple rebuild, +heads
b) stroker rebuild, use stock heads

both scenarios involve me ditching the blower.

also, if I were to buy longtubes, could I install the motor back in the car with the longtubes already bolted on?

I dont see the need to bolt the pressure plate on to the flywheel eithier. Have you actually done any of this, or or you guessing?

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by drudis
OK (oops) you're right...

I just have been playing with my T5 and TKO too long to remember that you can leave the converter on the tranny, unlike you need to bolt the pressure-plate onto the flywheel (mixing the two installs together, and making no sense...).
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I dont see the need to bolt the pressure plate on to the flywheel eithier. Have you actually done any of this, or or you guessing?

_________________________

LOL!


I will pull the whole package next time and I have an AOD. Drudis hit the nail on the head. I've done that once and its the last time.LOL

James

i'm confused again... if I unbolt the converter from the flexplate, then the converter wont come out, thus making the only lining up to do with the 4 bolts. doesnt seem that hard, am I missing something?

No, I think you got it, and I dont think it would be hard to do that way. Go for it.

Wow, a 3 page post on pulling a motor! :D Who woulda thunk it? :D j/k

Why are you going to junk the blower? Get a 331 stroker kit with 9:1 compression, bolt on the blower and have it professionally tuned. You will have one hell of a beast on your hands!

E

My issue at this point is funds. If you can find me a 331 stroker kit with all forged parts for about a grand, I can do it, but otherwise.... i have to junk the blower.

Got it.

well I've got an idea!
if you bring your car to my house, then I'll do all of the work for the measly fee of just one Procharger :)

see this way, you wouldnt have to worry about doing it yourself OR trying to find somewhere to junk the blower off too :D