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Old 03-28-2002, 03:00 AM   #1
zepherman
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Default Putting a 125 shot on my car, just a few questions.

Im going to run my NOS dry kit for he first time tomorrow. It has the 125 hp pills in it now (one in the hose above the fuel pres reg and one in the spray nozzle), but im changing to 100 in a couple days. The guys at the performance shop told me that i could probably get away with regular spark plugs. Im setting the timing back to 10. Anyone have any suggestions or things to keep in mind before i make the first pass?



P.S. Just got my car back from gettng the gears swaped from 2.73 to 3.55, WOAH, its a totaly different car
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90 GT 25th Anni. Did the AOD to T-5 swap, SPEC clutch, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, BBK 2½ inch off-road H pipe, Flows, BBK 70mm TB/EGR, Ford Racing aluminim driveshaft, 3.55's, welded subframes, Ram Air, 3 core radiator, NOS dry kit 75 shot, and a K&N filter.

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Old 03-28-2002, 03:38 AM   #2
WADS56
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You don't have the stock fuel pump do you? Other then that it looks good. If this is your first time using nitrous I would try the 75 shot first so you can get the feel for it. Not that there is something wrong with the 150 it's just that if something go's wrong it would be safer with the 75.
I cracked a piston with a 150 shot. It was my fault to much timing.
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Old 03-28-2002, 04:22 PM   #3
FordFasteR
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listen carefully..

if you use stock spark plugs with even the LEAST amount of nitrous, you will detonate a nd possibly blow your engine apart or melt a valve or piston.

also, a dry 125 shot is TOO MUCH for stock injectors unless youve got a monster high volume/pressure fuel pump... dont risk it, just use the 75 shot or 100 shot to be safe before you upgrade to larger injectors and matching MAF sensor.


follow these steps to keep your engine alive.

1. change to 1 stage colder spark plugs for anything under 100 hp.

2. change your fuel filter, put a new one on, it usually frees up a few psi of fuel pressure due to less restriction from dirt and **** that builds up in stock filters after lots of miles..

3. back off some timing, at least, set it to 10 degreez BTDC at idle with the spout connector removed.... (dont forget to put the spout connector back on before you drive off ) hehee

4. do not miss a shift with that dry kit, or you'll be in trouble.
5. dont spray out of the hole on street tires, you'll just spin and look really stupid while a ricer smokes your *****.



any other questions. read my website, its all about the NITROUS !!!

http://www.pcrepairworld.com/nitrousworld
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Old 03-28-2002, 04:29 PM   #4
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i hope that whoever told you that you can use your stock spark plugs isnt one of your friends or relatives...

because thats like telling somebody to put their hand on a red hot stove.. "i promise, it wont hurt , I SWEAR IT WON'T !!"


sheesh...


i suggest that you read my site carefully... it has lots of hints and tips and pictures of how to setup the system properly...


here is a pic of a typical dry kit setup....


and here is a wet kit using an msd inline fuel pump...



here is the same wet kit, using my custom made fuel bypass valve... the way the bypass valve works is simple, when you turn off the msd fuel pump, the fuel takes the path of least resistance, this is the one way valve. When you hit the switch and turn the msd pump on, the pressure on the other side of the pump goes up, and closes the one way valve and keeps the pressure high while you spray.... i came up with this idea so that i wont foul spark plugs .. and i can shut off that noisy pump whenever i want ! hahaha

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Old 03-30-2002, 02:19 PM   #5
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in the diagram of the typical dry kit, you have the bottom leg of the T where the flare jet is going to manifold vacume. I thought the bottom of the T went to the regulator and one of the top sides of the T going to the manifold vacume. that is how i have mine set up now. i have made several passes that way already. i made those passes with regular plugs at 10 degrees timing.
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Old 03-30-2002, 10:31 PM   #6
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that image is directly from a book called " How to install and use nitrous oxide injection systems for maximum horsepower" written by Joe Pettitt.

also, that image is from the instructions provided by NOS to the author...


i just double checked it to be sure, and it is exactly the correct way to plumb the vacume lines...


1. the tee with the jet inside hooks up to the manifold vacume.

2. the other end of the tee attaches to the Fuel Pressure regulator.

3. the last nipple on the tee attaches to the Nitrous Pressure Regulator that is sandwiched between both nitrous solenoids.



thats the way it is shown on page 47 of the above mentioned book.

i would double check your vacume ports and fix it if it isnt plumbed exactly as i have described it above and also as how its shown on the image above...


in the remote possibility that the image is wrong, or that i have misread it... please find the correct way to plumb it so i can fix my images... also, be sure to use screw clamps on ALL vacume fittings that attach to the nitrous pressure regulator, as they tend to pop off and cause the car to run lean while spraying and of course you know what will happen... KABOOM !!!! bye bye engine ! hehehe

regards !!!
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