question about 95 GTs
 

i found a nice 95 GT with 59k miles for 6000 bucks and i was wondering what kind of HP did the 95s have? im also pretty sure it has a 5.0 to right? also what kinda times will it run stock? its a auto by the way

215HP they way it is rated being a 1995 it wieghts more than the Fox bodys so a Low-mid 15 is what I would say the Auto's stock arent to great needs a shift kit and a stall will help it out alot and new gears too

well my dad is probably gonna buy it for the price its nice...its in really good shape, black, and runs good i figured it would have alittle more power than that but that isnt to bad..i bet my car will run with it tho and thats sad

My friend has the same car you have a 88 305 and he has a 87 stock mustang the Mustang will walk all over it But the 88 305 you have will be very close I think the 305 is like a High 15 or 16 realy.

87 mustang is rated at 225hp and is lighter than the 95 like the above post said. with the mods ive done i should be at least mid 15's and when i get a new 3.42 or 3.73 rear itll help alot. he doesnt want an automatic but for that price he isnt gonna pass that car up. im pretty sure stock 305 tbi cars are mid 16 second cars but i do have plans for my car thatll get it into the 13s someday

If it's a 95 GT, than yes, it is the 5.0 engine. The 96 and up have 4.6 modular engine. The 96-98 made 215hp. The 99+ GT makes 260hp.

Yeah, gears and a stall will help it out alot. I'd still rather have a 5spd over the auto. In many cases the manual will give you around .5 in the 1/4. High 14's or low 15's are the norm for a 94-95 (manual trans).

The 94-95 GT is a dog stock, as many will attest, but the 5.0 has a huge aftermarket. You can get 13's with a couple thousand in mods, even with an auto.

They are rated at 215, but they really make the same hp as 87-92 5.0's, it's the same engine, just with a little different intake(has the little elbow).

A stall converter, a shift kit, and some 4.11 gears will really wake it up.

its a shame the 95s are slower than the late 80's-early 90's..i do thing the 95 is one of the best looking years tho im not real crazy about the new style out. The 95 looks real nice to bad it has 17'' tires on it...250$ a tire...damn how do you all afford that

I've got a '95 GT and have gotten it to run a 14.2 with the mods in my sig. That was full weight and a 215 lbs. driver, 1/4 tank of gas. The first thing you should do if you don't change it to a 5 spd. is get 3.73 or 4.10 gears and a shift kit. That really woke my car up. You will also need a chip to change your rev limiter and shift points. If you opt for more by way of a converter, you should do ir right and get a PI stallion. They are said to be the best on the market. Hope this helps. If you have any Q's then feel free to ask.

-Billy

My brother's 95 doesn't have 17" rims. It has the stock 16" rims, isn't that what they all came with, 16" rims?

Steve

16" rims were standard, 17" rims were optional.

The ones you have are the 17's then right? His look nothing like yours. Thanks for the help.

Steve

$250 a tire?! Are you carzy!
Go to www.tirerack.com and check out the Kumho Ecsta Supra 721 in a 245/45ZR17 size. I think they're under $120 and they're great all around tires. Shipping runs $10-15 a tire based on your location and mounting/balancing at a local shop will be another $10 a tire. Grand total of about $460, much better than $250 a tire.

Actually the difference in horsepower comes from the computer. Even with a head, intake, and cam swap, dont expect to gain much until you get some type of fuel management system.
As previously mentioned you will need to get the rev limiter out of the way, they are set around 5500 on the AOD-E cars. Although I never ran my car when it was stock, it would have been lucky to run a high 15! I'm guessing low 16's would have been the norm.
As far as gears go, get the 3.73's, unless you plan to run a tall tire at the track. You will run out of gear on the big end with the 4.10's and a 26 inch tire.
andy

They are? My 94 GT with 4.10 gears, catalytic converters, and INTACT air silencer ran a 14.01 @ 100...I suppose I had a Wednesday motor...*shrug*.

I do agree that the AOD-E is really a boring, slow tranny stock. I had an auto 3.8L, and after driving 5spd V6s, I am convinced that the tranny made all the difference in the world. I would hold out for a 5 spd, but if this isn't possible you can always invest in a B&M ShiftPlus..

$250 a tire? Dude, I paid $260 for my 315/35/17 tires...and that's on a 10.5 wide rim...where do YOU buy YOUR tires????

hey Mustangbelle-

Trapping at 100 is damn fast for a near stock SN95 mustang. Your car is an auto? The 4.10 gears are a great first mod. 14 flat is rare for a stock 94-95 GT, even one with gears. Sounds like you got a freak or your one heck of a driver!

The 1987 GT was the only one from 1987-1992 that was rated at all. The ratings were carried over at 225hp year after year. In 1993 the engine was re-rated at 205hp. Although Ford stated the reason for the lower rating was because of a different method, the truth is it was just plain down on power vs the 1987-1988 non CA cars. They made camshaft revisions, computer changes, added Mass Airflow, a change in catalitic converters, and some other minor revisions. The 93's seemed to have the weakest computers, but in reality the 1989-1992 doubtfully had the full 225. By your logic I could just say the 94-95 GT's were overrated, since they had more in common with the 93's than the 1987-1992 cars. Hypereutic cast pistons replaced forged pistons in the 1993 model year for emissions issues. New computers were added to the SN95 cars, and a modified intake was added as well.

Although the EEC-V computers have been found to be somewhat finicky when it comes to camshaft swaps, there are plenty of people picking up lots of power with the stock cam, ported heads, and a good intake. The "fuel management system" that powers some of these cars into the 12's is an adjustable fuel pressure regulator.

Killercanary had his SN95 GT running 2 seconds faster than stock with the stock computer and no FMU. I would say that's a pretty significant gain. Course, then again, maybe all SN95 GT verts trap close to or over 105 mph with the stock computer. (5spd)

At 5500rpms the AOD would be cranking down the 1/4 mile at 102mph in 3rd gear with stock sized rubber. I don't know of too many that will run 102mph near stock. I have to admit I don't know where the rev limiter kicks in, but you can always buy a tuner for that problem. I see no need for an FMU.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Unit 5302

Killercanary had his SN95 GT running 2 seconds faster than stock with the stock computer and no FMU. I would say that's a pretty significant gain. Course, then again, maybe all SN95 GT verts trap close to or over 105 mph with the stock computer. (5spd)

The last time I checked, Killercanary was using some sort of tuner. I cant remember if it was a speedbrain, or eec tuner. Either way, I hardly call that stock!

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Unit 5302

At 5500rpms the AOD would be cranking down the 1/4 mile at 102mph in 3rd gear with stock sized rubber. I don't know of too many that will run 102mph near stock.

My experiences on this subject dont come from a gear ratio calculator. This past summer I tuned a car that my friend bought for his daughter. It was a 95 AOD-E car, that was bone stock with the exception of 4.10's. She was running out of gear at the E.T lights while she was trapping 95. I did the same thing on her car that I do to all stock SN95's that I work on. I set the base timing at 10 degrees, added 2 degrees of total timing across the board, leaned it out 2% below 4000rpm, and 3% above 4000. I also moved the rev limiter up out of the way. The end result for my friends daughters car was, 3 mph and 3 tenths. Part of the mile-an-hour was likely the rev limiter. I also tuned another 95 on the dyno and I have some graphs. If anyone would like to see them I can post them.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Unit 5302

I have to admit I don't know where the rev limiter kicks in, but you can always buy a tuner for that problem.

I cant remember exactly where it is on the AOD-E cars. On my stock tach it looked like 5500, but I think it is 5800.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Unit 5302

I see no need for an FMU.

I agree.


andy

andy669, I'll cut you some slack, hehe. What you don't know about Killercanary's setup, is how he got to where he is. He was running low 15's stock. Before the EEC tuner, he ran a low 13 with the AFR's and most of his current combo in place on the stock SN95 computer ;) .

If you are arguing math based on your personal impressions for maximum trap speed with 4.10's, it sounds pretty weak to me. But just in case the gear ratio calculators are incorrect, let's do some math.

5500rpms 3rd gear in AOD-E 1.00:1. Rear end ratio 4.10:1. Stock tire size 245/45 17.

So let's start by doing the tire diameter. 245x.45 = 110.25 x 2 = 220.50 / 25.4 = 8.6811". 17 + 8.6811 = 25.68"

Circumference = 2 x pi x (25.68/2) = 80.68"

Wheel revolutions per minute: Now the engine is spinning at 5,500rpm. Since the transmission ratio is 1:1 in 3rd gear, that means the driveshaft is spinning 5,500rpm as well. Now, the rear end ratio is 4.10:1, meaning the wheels are spinning 5,500 / 4.10 = 1341.46rpm.

Mph = 1341.46 x 80.68 / 12 / 5280 x 60 = 102.49mph.

If the rear end ratio is truely 4.10:1, the car has stock sized dire diameter, and the transmission ratio isn't false, 5,500rpms HAS to equal 102mph.

Sorry, but a tachometer can be incorrect, the math cannot be.

Wow! :D


If an SN95 AOD can run that quick with just gears, I must be able to hit mid 13's! :p