Questions about cam selection and others

vetteeatr · 01-21-2002, 06:33 PM

Currently I have a 5.0 bored 30 over

Holley systemax II intake
Windsor Senior heads Ported and polished
(THey flow best at .500 lift and very slightly worse at .550 then start to drop of alot faster)

1.7 harland sharpe rockers

MSD igniton

Long tube BBK exhaust and H-Pipe

10.1 pistons

3.73 gears

aluminum driveshaft

and some pulleys

Basically I want a cam thats gonna help my combo

Im gonna convert to mass air first so what do you guys htink would be a good choice?

What do you think my horsepower and torque would be with this combo before and after your cam selection?

Also if you can guess my powerband would be nice.

Its a 5 spd by the way

Rick 91GT · 01-22-2002, 10:42 AM

Well if you can afford to spend $280-$300 get a custom cam, the AFM N-61 really woke mine up, but it does require deeper reliefs in the pistons, (not quite sure exactly what you have) the N4 has around .512 lift and is very popular as well.

What injector are are running and what Mass Air conversion are you going to do? I would suggest 24# or 30# inj, and DONT GET THE COBRA MASS AIR CONVERSION, you don't want a Cobra computer, it re acts slower and pulls a lot of timing up high, and adds fuel.

The cam will determine the power band along with the heads, I would say with a decent cam with 228+ duration you will go 6400rpm with no problems, as long as your valve springs can take that kind of lift/ and rpm.

vetteeatr · 02-06-2002, 08:40 AM

Liek in HP and also how mcuh quicker do yo think my e.t.'s would be

Oh also i kinda rougly fly cut my pisons just a little bit

so i have no idea what kinda lift it can take......

ANd i really dont wanna tear apart my whoel motor again as i did like a few months ago

What is the lift on a stock cam?

How much is .o4 more lift really is that even noticible
as whn i fly cut hte pistons i noticed a recess but it wasnt that huge

SO in inches how deep would my pistons need to be notched if they were almost hitting with the stock cam and i went up to a .550 cam or so.

thanks guys

Rick 91GT · 02-06-2002, 11:30 AM

Well a stock cam has .444 lift, not sure on the duration. I had to take a additional .050 out of my 89 H.O pistons to fit my cam.

What was your piston to valve clearance when you assembled the motor? With any cam swap it is best to re-check piston to valve clearance, it is the only true way to know how close it is, and with the 2.02 valves in the Srs you would not be able to go over .509 lift, 220 duration with out the valve hitting on the outside of the eye brow. The manufactor of your 10:1 psitons should be able to tell you what lift the valve reliefs will take with your valve size, try them.

The difference between a .444 lift cam with low duration to a .550 lift cam with 228+ duration is huge, they are totally different is every aspect. It could mean 30hp plus, the cam is the heart of the motor.

With you 1.7's you would only need a cam with .520 lift to acheive .550

silver_pilate · 02-06-2002, 12:03 PM

Well, I've been extremely pleased with my cam.

I'm running a Wolverine Blue Racer cam (now owned by Crane cams). It's the 1087 cam with the following specs: 222/232 @ .05, .510'/.534', 112 LSA. This cam is not smog legal, but we don't have sniffer tests up here.

The cam really likes the compression...I also run 10:1 through a set of cleaned up Windsor Jrs. It starts pulling hard about 2500-3000 rpm...right at the stall speed of my converter...and it pulls hard straight past 6000 rpm. It has a lopey idle, but doesn't really search that much...it gets along fairly nicely with the computer. It really is a good cam with decent street manners. Never has stalled out on me, and it idles happily at 700 rpm. Oh, and it sounds absolutely great.

--nathan

Mach 1 · 02-06-2002, 10:42 PM

nathen-

whats up with those times? You should be running a lot faster than that with your combination.

silver_pilate · 02-07-2002, 11:57 AM

Mach 1,

Actually...I'm not one to make excuses, but there's a whole bunch up with those times

. Let's see...where to begin?

Well...this was my very first time to run the 1/4 in any vehicle, and the high altitude doesn't help.

I had about 200 pounds of unneccessary weight in the car (I wasn't planning on running so I didn't track prep the car at all...speaker box...spare...about 100 pounds of grad. school text books in the back seat)

The run was made without any tuning. I don't even know what my timing was set at...my timing light, along with everyone elses that I know, was busted. I think it was pretty close to 10*.

I didn't even lower the pressure in my tires...can you say wheel spin? Also, I don't have enough practice to hit the lights consistantly just yet.

My O2 sensors are about 130,000 miles old and are far past need of replacement.

I had a HUGE exhaust leak on the number four cylinder. I recently replaced my header gaskets (after these times were run), and I discovered that the entire number four primary seal was gone. Basically, there was no seal at all on the exhaust port for that cylinder...kinda like running on 7 and 1/2 cylinders. The new gaskets made a BIG difference in performance.

I'm having transmission problems. My tranny won't hold 3rd gear under WOT. I launch good through 1st...hold second to close to 5800...but when I hit third, I have to back out halfway on the throttle or the tranny will slip directly from third to OD even though the shift lever is in D. Needless to say, hitting OD a few hundred feet before the line kills my et. This is a problem with my VB or shift kit. I'm about to invest in the Lentech VB to resolve this issue. Also, the tranny has been rebuilt twice before I got the car...I feel it's holding me back some...I'm curious to see how the Lentech VB helps out.

Also, there are some more mods I need to make to maximise my combo. I need a larger fuel pump and adjustable regulator. I need some underdrive pullies, and I need to ditch the stock fan for an electric one.

When the tracks open back up in a couple of weeks, I'll hit them again and see what kinda times I can pull off. I know I can hit 13's at this altitude if I get it set up right.

What do you think...what kinda numbers should I be looking for considering the altitude?

--nathan

89 Cobra LX · 02-07-2002, 04:37 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by vetteeatr
1.7 harland sharpe rockers

I know you've already got them, but 1.7 ratio rockers will limit your cam selections. You may want to consider 1.6 RRs.

Dark_5.0 · 02-08-2002, 12:08 AM

[

What do you think...what kinda numbers should I be looking for considering the altitude?

--nathan [/B][/QUOTE]

I feel your pain as you know I also have to race in this crappy air...If I were you I would be looking for mid 13's with traction.

The air here in Odessa is actually worse than the physical altitude or 3000ft suggest.....The air routinely is 4000+ft on the altitude meter.

Mach 1 · 02-09-2002, 02:24 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by silver_pilate
Mach 1,

Actually...I'm not one to make excuses, but there's a whole bunch up with those times . Let's see...where to begin?

Well...this was my very first time to run the 1/4 in any vehicle, and the high altitude doesn't help.

I had about 200 pounds of unneccessary weight in the car (I wasn't planning on running so I didn't track prep the car at all...speaker box...spare...about 100 pounds of grad. school text books in the back seat)

The run was made without any tuning. I don't even know what my timing was set at...my timing light, along with everyone elses that I know, was busted. I think it was pretty close to 10*.

I didn't even lower the pressure in my tires...can you say wheel spin? Also, I don't have enough practice to hit the lights consistantly just yet.

My O2 sensors are about 130,000 miles old and are far past need of replacement.

I had a HUGE exhaust leak on the number four cylinder. I recently replaced my header gaskets (after these times were run), and I discovered that the entire number four primary seal was gone. Basically, there was no seal at all on the exhaust port for that cylinder...kinda like running on 7 and 1/2 cylinders. The new gaskets made a BIG difference in performance.

I'm having transmission problems. My tranny won't hold 3rd gear under WOT. I launch good through 1st...hold second to close to 5800...but when I hit third, I have to back out halfway on the throttle or the tranny will slip directly from third to OD even though the shift lever is in D. Needless to say, hitting OD a few hundred feet before the line kills my et. This is a problem with my VB or shift kit. I'm about to invest in the Lentech VB to resolve this issue. Also, the tranny has been rebuilt twice before I got the car...I feel it's holding me back some...I'm curious to see how the Lentech VB helps out.

Also, there are some more mods I need to make to maximise my combo. I need a larger fuel pump and adjustable regulator. I need some underdrive pullies, and I need to ditch the stock fan for an electric one.

When the tracks open back up in a couple of weeks, I'll hit them again and see what kinda times I can pull off. I know I can hit 13's at this altitude if I get it set up right.

What do you think...what kinda numbers should I be looking for considering the altitude?

--nathan

I dont think low 13's on street tires is unreasonable, and thats what my car runs. Our combos are similar, but you have more engine work.

01-21-2002, 06:33 PM	#1
vetteeatr Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Olney, Illinois, USA Posts: 212	Questions about cam selection and others Currently I have a 5.0 bored 30 over Holley systemax II intake Windsor Senior heads Ported and polished (THey flow best at .500 lift and very slightly worse at .550 then start to drop of alot faster) 1.7 harland sharpe rockers MSD igniton Long tube BBK exhaust and H-Pipe 10.1 pistons 3.73 gears aluminum driveshaft and some pulleys Basically I want a cam thats gonna help my combo Im gonna convert to mass air first so what do you guys htink would be a good choice? What do you think my horsepower and torque would be with this combo before and after your cam selection? Also if you can guess my powerband would be nice. Its a 5 spd by the way

01-22-2002, 10:42 AM	#2
Rick 91GT Procharged! Join Date: May 1999 Location: Hanover, PA Posts: 1,539	Well if you can afford to spend $280-$300 get a custom cam, the AFM N-61 really woke mine up, but it does require deeper reliefs in the pistons, (not quite sure exactly what you have) the N4 has around .512 lift and is very popular as well. What injector are are running and what Mass Air conversion are you going to do? I would suggest 24# or 30# inj, and DONT GET THE COBRA MASS AIR CONVERSION, you don't want a Cobra computer, it re acts slower and pulls a lot of timing up high, and adds fuel. The cam will determine the power band along with the heads, I would say with a decent cam with 228+ duration you will go 6400rpm with no problems, as long as your valve springs can take that kind of lift/ and rpm. __________________ *D/R 10108 NMRA Drag Radial, 25.5 chassis, F1R* *Check out RNH Performance Performance Engines and Custom Fabrication.* *From Mild to Wild we can build what you want, when you want it.* FOR SALE Stainless Steel Torque Box Supports

02-06-2002, 08:40 AM	#3
vetteeatr Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Olney, Illinois, USA Posts: 212	How much will a custom cam really help? Liek in HP and also how mcuh quicker do yo think my e.t.'s would be Oh also i kinda rougly fly cut my pisons just a little bit so i have no idea what kinda lift it can take...... ANd i really dont wanna tear apart my whoel motor again as i did like a few months ago What is the lift on a stock cam? How much is .o4 more lift really is that even noticible as whn i fly cut hte pistons i noticed a recess but it wasnt that huge SO in inches how deep would my pistons need to be notched if they were almost hitting with the stock cam and i went up to a .550 cam or so. thanks guys

02-06-2002, 11:30 AM	#4
Rick 91GT Procharged! Join Date: May 1999 Location: Hanover, PA Posts: 1,539	Well a stock cam has .444 lift, not sure on the duration. I had to take a additional .050 out of my 89 H.O pistons to fit my cam. What was your piston to valve clearance when you assembled the motor? With any cam swap it is best to re-check piston to valve clearance, it is the only true way to know how close it is, and with the 2.02 valves in the Srs you would not be able to go over .509 lift, 220 duration with out the valve hitting on the outside of the eye brow. The manufactor of your 10:1 psitons should be able to tell you what lift the valve reliefs will take with your valve size, try them. The difference between a .444 lift cam with low duration to a .550 lift cam with 228+ duration is huge, they are totally different is every aspect. It could mean 30hp plus, the cam is the heart of the motor. With you 1.7's you would only need a cam with .520 lift to acheive .550 __________________ *D/R 10108 NMRA Drag Radial, 25.5 chassis, F1R* *Check out RNH Performance Performance Engines and Custom Fabrication.* *From Mild to Wild we can build what you want, when you want it.* FOR SALE Stainless Steel Torque Box Supports

02-06-2002, 12:03 PM	#5
silver_pilate DURKA DURKA!! Join Date: Sep 1997 Location: Lubbock, TX...(TX panhandle) Posts: 1,418	Well, I've been extremely pleased with my cam. I'm running a Wolverine Blue Racer cam (now owned by Crane cams). It's the 1087 cam with the following specs: 222/232 @ .05, .510'/.534', 112 LSA. This cam is not smog legal, but we don't have sniffer tests up here. The cam really likes the compression...I also run 10:1 through a set of cleaned up Windsor Jrs. It starts pulling hard about 2500-3000 rpm...right at the stall speed of my converter...and it pulls hard straight past 6000 rpm. It has a lopey idle, but doesn't really search that much...it gets along fairly nicely with the computer. It really is a good cam with decent street manners. Never has stalled out on me, and it idles happily at 700 rpm. Oh, and it sounds absolutely great. --nathan __________________ '91 GT, Coast 347, 9.5:1 compression, full intake, Wolverine 1087 cam, exhaust, Keith Craft ported Windsor Jr. Irons (235 cfm intake, 195 cfm exhaust), AOD, PI 3500 converter, Lentech valve body, 3.73's (4.10's in the works), and Yokohama ES100's out back. Daily Car: '04 Infiniti G35 Sedan 6MT

02-06-2002, 10:42 PM	#6
Mach 1 Registered Member Join Date: May 1999 Location: Georgia Posts: 3,866	nathen- whats up with those times? You should be running a lot faster than that with your combination. __________________ 2002 GT 1993 GT (SOLD) '93 Mustang GT RHC member #142

02-07-2002, 11:57 AM	#7
silver_pilate DURKA DURKA!! Join Date: Sep 1997 Location: Lubbock, TX...(TX panhandle) Posts: 1,418	Mach 1, Actually...I'm not one to make excuses, but there's a whole bunch up with those times . Let's see...where to begin? Well...this was my very first time to run the 1/4 in any vehicle, and the high altitude doesn't help. I had about 200 pounds of unneccessary weight in the car (I wasn't planning on running so I didn't track prep the car at all...speaker box...spare...about 100 pounds of grad. school text books in the back seat) The run was made without any tuning. I don't even know what my timing was set at...my timing light, along with everyone elses that I know, was busted. I think it was pretty close to 10. I didn't even lower the pressure in my tires...can you say wheel spin? Also, I don't have enough practice to hit the lights consistantly just yet. My O2 sensors are about 130,000 miles old and are far past need of replacement. I had a HUGE exhaust leak on the number four cylinder. I recently replaced my header gaskets (after these times were run), and I discovered that the entire number four primary seal was gone. Basically, there was no seal at all on the exhaust port for that cylinder...kinda like running on 7 and 1/2 cylinders. The new gaskets made a BIG difference in performance. I'm having transmission problems. My tranny won't hold 3rd gear under WOT. I launch good through 1st...hold second to close to 5800...but when I hit third, I have to back out halfway on the throttle or the tranny will slip directly from third to OD even though the shift lever is in D. Needless to say, hitting OD a few hundred feet before the line kills my et. This is a problem with my VB or shift kit. I'm about to invest in the Lentech VB to resolve this issue. Also, the tranny has been rebuilt twice before I got the car...I feel it's holding me back some...I'm curious to see how the Lentech VB helps out. Also, there are some more mods I need to make to maximise my combo. I need a larger fuel pump and adjustable regulator. I need some underdrive pullies, and I need to ditch the stock fan for an electric one. When the tracks open back up in a couple of weeks, I'll hit them again and see what kinda times I can pull off. I know I can hit 13's at this altitude if I get it set up right. What do you think...what kinda numbers should I be looking for considering the altitude? --nathan __________________ '91 GT, Coast 347, 9.5:1 compression, full intake, Wolverine 1087 cam, exhaust, Keith Craft ported Windsor Jr. Irons (235 cfm intake, 195 cfm exhaust), AOD, PI 3500 converter, Lentech valve body, 3.73's (4.10's in the works), and Yokohama ES100's out back. Daily Car:* '04 Infiniti G35 Sedan 6MT

02-08-2002, 12:08 AM	#9
Dark_5.0 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Staging lane Posts: 4,337	[ What do you think...what kinda numbers should I be looking for considering the altitude? --nathan [/B][/QUOTE] I feel your pain as you know I also have to race in this crappy air...If I were you I would be looking for mid 13's with traction. The air here in Odessa is actually worse than the physical altitude or 3000ft suggest.....The air routinely is 4000+ft on the altitude meter. __________________ 92' LX-Big brakes, Lots and lots of suspension, GT40X heads, Ported cobra intake, stock cam, Vortech SC trim. 00' Lightning-Stock 88'CRX-13 second ego killer