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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 158
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![]() Hello, I'm pretty sure I need to change the axle bearing on my car. I have never worked on the rear end. Can someone post some instructions? I'll look in my Hayne's, but that never includes potential hang ups or good tricks. I've read that the axle will probably be damaged by the bad bearing. Is this something I can verify by just removing the diff cover? Thanks.
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91 Coupe: FMS 1 5/8 unqual shorty's, BBK off road X-pipe, Super Duty T5, Pro 5.0 short shifter, 2.73 rear, G3 alt, MSD coil, dist, no smog pump, oil cooler, 195K miles, 14 deg timing, 23 mpg city/29 mpg highway @ 65 mph. |
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#2 |
Huh? Whatcha said?
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Fayetteville, NC
Posts: 1,073
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![]() The axle bearing is on the end of the axle tube. Behind the brake assembly. It can be a total pain in the arse. You have to have a special puller, which is actually a slide hammer, to get it out. Sometimes the race breaks, and then you get to play hell getting it out. I suggest giving that headache to a quallified shop and let them deal with it. It's worth it to not have to deal with it.
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2003 GT White---STOLEN May you burn in hell whoever took it. Dumbazz didn't even get the good engine that was in the garage. |
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#3 |
Domestic Rice really sucks!
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: KY
Posts: 973
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![]() Sometimes a little heat will let that bearing race out. Stinks like a mofo but works. Or if you break the bearing and leave the outside race still in the axle housing, you can weld a bead on the inside of the bearing race. It'll come out then.
You can't check this by just pulling the diff cover. How do you know the axle bearing is the problem?
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Sabana Grande, Puerto Rico
Posts: 33
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![]() If you go ahead with the bearings removal, either you or have a shop do it for you, and you find out the axles are damaged due to wear on the area the bearing runs on.....you don't have to replace the axles. There's an alternative using an offset bearing/seal setup so you can "extend" their useful life and unless an upgraded set of axles is on the works. The part# is VLRP5707 or RP5707 under the Timken brand. JIC.
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ACRONYMS: LUK=Let Us Know, GL=Good Luck, LMK=Let Me Know, JIC=Just In Case, BTSTDTRT=Been There Seen That Done That Repaired That and the classic... DILLIGAS=Do I Look Like I Give A S*** 1986 Mustang GT w/T-Tops ![]() NOW: 5.0L Stock SB, X303 Cam, 700 cfm DP Holley, 289 '66 Heads, 1.7 RR, Richmond Gear 4+1 Tranny, Centerforce DF, 2.73 Gears WIP: 3.90 Gears, LS Overhaul, Adj. LCA's & UCA's (Granatelli), T-Top weather striping and rear braces bodywork ![]() |
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#5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 158
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![]() I think the bearing is bad because I can hear a wah wah wah sound coming from the side of the rear end. Speed changes the frequency of the sound. Higher speeds (over 60) can be felt as shaking develops throughout the entire car, almost like out of balance tires. It does it whether or not I'm in gear, with or without the engine on. When the rear of the car is jacked up, the passenger side wheel spins by hand easily, where the driver's side has a noticable resistance throughout about 2/3 of its motion range. The resistance is there even when the drum is pulled off, so I know its not a rubbing brake problem. Do you think I'm diagnosing this correctly? An axle upgrade is not in order - I appreciate the heads up.
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91 Coupe: FMS 1 5/8 unqual shorty's, BBK off road X-pipe, Super Duty T5, Pro 5.0 short shifter, 2.73 rear, G3 alt, MSD coil, dist, no smog pump, oil cooler, 195K miles, 14 deg timing, 23 mpg city/29 mpg highway @ 65 mph. |
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#6 |
Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Milan, OH
Posts: 2,699
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![]() Sounds about right to me.
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Jeff Chambers 1990 Mustang GT 10.032 Seconds / 137.5 MPH 14-time Street Warrior World Record Setter CRT Performance 2001 Tropic Green Mustang GT - 12.181 / 113.2 MPH 2002 Ford F-250 Crew Cab 7.3l Power Stroke - 17.41@77.2 "There's nothing boring about a small block automatic shifting gears at 9400 rpm!" |
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#7 | |
Huh? Whatcha said?
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Fayetteville, NC
Posts: 1,073
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![]() Yeah, however, I have a few issues with the whole
Quote:
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2003 GT White---STOLEN May you burn in hell whoever took it. Dumbazz didn't even get the good engine that was in the garage. |
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#8 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 158
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![]() Probably no more dangerous than driving around with a bad bearing
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91 Coupe: FMS 1 5/8 unqual shorty's, BBK off road X-pipe, Super Duty T5, Pro 5.0 short shifter, 2.73 rear, G3 alt, MSD coil, dist, no smog pump, oil cooler, 195K miles, 14 deg timing, 23 mpg city/29 mpg highway @ 65 mph. |
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#9 |
Domestic Rice really sucks!
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: KY
Posts: 973
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![]() Your driving around with a bad bearing is just about going to guarantee axle damage. How long have you been driving with the bearing noise?
If you want to fix the problem, but can't do an axle upgrade, why not just buy a stock replacement axle from a junkyard or parts store?
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#10 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Skiatook, Oklahoma
Posts: 193
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![]() As Joel 5.0 said, there is a offset bearing to fix a bad axle. Ive run them in 8.8 and 9 inch rear ends with no problems.
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#11 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 950
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![]() When I got my 8inch out of the junkyard, I had to replace one of the bearings. A pain in the ass, but not too bad I didnt think. When I went to remove the axle Im too poor for the right tools, so I used a chain hooked to the axle and a C-clamp attached to the chain for a handle. Alot of hard pulls later it poped out. I got the bearing pressed on by a shop though.
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Alex |
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