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06-21-2002, 10:37 AM | #1 |
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Huntington NY
Posts: 573
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Rear main seal
What is involved in replacing the rear main seal? Do I have to pull the engine or just the tranny? I want to know what I might be getting into, thanks.
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-1993 Mustang, 900rwhp 03-04 cobra based 4v swap, full Griggs setup, project underway -1994 Ranger w/ 427cid windsor (daily beater) check it out! |
06-21-2002, 11:49 AM | #2 |
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on my 87 all u have to do is pull out the tranny, but it still is not that easy of a job. Good luck
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87-ford-mustang-SOLD! mods: 3:73's, off road h-pipe, b303 cam in gt- 40 motor w/ Power Plus intake, edelbrock 70mm tb & egr spacer, 72mm C&L, bbk long tubes, tremec tranny, centerforce dual friction clutch, upr and lwr CA's 255lph FP and soon more to come.... when i have money again SOME ADVICE Don't do burn outs in reverse it is very expensive New times with dead hook on dr's 13.27@103 with 2.0 60 foots w/100lb system Fastest time to date: 12.8@113 |
06-21-2002, 05:37 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Huntington NY
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I think I will order a centerforce dual friction clutch too, since I will have the tranny out. The car only has 70,000 miles on it, what would have caused the leak?
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-1993 Mustang, 900rwhp 03-04 cobra based 4v swap, full Griggs setup, project underway -1994 Ranger w/ 427cid windsor (daily beater) check it out! |
06-21-2002, 06:20 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: May 1999
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Mileage doesn't matter that much. Age matters.
As the seal ages, it hardens. Once it's flexibility is lost, it allows oil to flow out past it. Of course, the more mileage you put on it, the more of a groove the seal will wear into the crankshaft so you should try to install the new seal in a slightly different location so you don't put it right over the old groove. It's quite tedious to get the old seal out. If you follow the drilling procedure to remove it, take extreme care not to touch the crankshaft. If you do, it'll leak. |
06-22-2002, 01:26 AM | #5 |
I'd rather be basketweaving
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 2,551
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great advice once again from Mr Unit
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NMRA O/C 9516 NA pumpgas stickshift 347 10.65@125.6, 6.73@100, 1.41 60ft |
06-22-2002, 06:08 PM | #6 |
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Location: Huntington NY
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Thanks for the advice. I have a few questions. "drilling procedure" ? Is it riveted on? And how can I install it in a different place. Doesn't it only go on one way? thanks.
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-1993 Mustang, 900rwhp 03-04 cobra based 4v swap, full Griggs setup, project underway -1994 Ranger w/ 427cid windsor (daily beater) check it out! |
06-24-2002, 11:42 AM | #7 |
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Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Vestal, NY
Posts: 307
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Rear Main Seal
I just had my seal replaced about a month ago. You need to drop the tranny out, remove the clutch assembly, remove the flywheel, pilot bearing, and then the seal. When I had mine worked on, it actually took 2 days. It's the first time it was replaced and they took about 2 hours trying to get the pilot bearing off. I'm not sure how hard of a job it would be but that's what I know of having to be removed to get to the seal.
About the centerforce, I had a centerforce II pressure plate, and clutch disc. I had those replaced as well with a King Cobra Clutch kit. In my opinion i'm alot happier with the King Cobra clutch. To me it feels like it grips alot better. Also I noticed that there are alot of cracks on the outside of the CenterForce II pressure plate, with about 15k miles on it. I'm not really sure what that'd be from, so I can't say much about that part.
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1989 Mustang 5.0 Conversion, Full Saleen ground effects and spoiler, '94 saleen decal set, '93 Saleen Seats, Black interior from a '93, Steeda quadrant, smog pump delete, a/c delete, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, '97 rear differential, aluminum driveshaft, 5 lug conversion, '97 rear disc brakes, southside upper and lower control arms, '99 GT Anniversary wheels, flowtech longtubes, flowtech offroad H-pipe, saleen lowering springs, kyb shocks, caster/camber plates |
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