Subframes, Control Arms, ???

sfedenia · 03-05-2001, 12:49 PM

Wanting to do something small (under $200) this weekend, have a 95 GT AODE Vert, (85k miles) free mods and gears. What are the main diff's between the subframe's? looking at steeda, kenny, etc. Will these be best first, or should the rear ctrl arms be next? any other ideas?

withamc · 03-05-2001, 01:39 PM

My .02 - do the subframes first. I have an 86GT convertible. Bought the Groundpounder subs for $69 from Central Coast Mustang. I had no idea I would notice this much of a difference, but it's SO much more solid now. My top doesn't rattle against the windshield anymore.

------------------
86 GT, GT40P heads, Crane 2031, 1.7 RR's, Cobra intake, 65mm TB, 73mm Vortech, 24# injectors, MAC GT40P headers, 2-1/2" BBK H-pipe (w/cats), Flowmasters, 3.55s, Groundpounder subs and lower control arms.

CJ's94GT · 03-05-2001, 05:41 PM

Everyone talks about how much stiffer the SN-95 body is, but, I noticed a big difference when I put in the Steeda subs I got in a GP last year in my coupe.

I wish I had gone with the Kenny Brown Extreme matrix system with the jacking rails.

sfedenia · 03-05-2001, 06:15 PM

What type of welder will do the job? I have access to a wire fed MIG, but think it is like an 85 amp or something? Is it enough?
thanks for the help...

Bob · 03-05-2001, 08:33 PM

That's what you want for the job. The metal isn't that thick so you don't need a lot of amperage. I did my subs and battle boxes with an 80 amp flux core mig.

------------------
1985 Mustang GT

'85 GT 13.20 @ 105.8 / '72 Mach1
Long list...check website!!
My Website

03-05-2001, 12:49 PM	#1
sfedenia Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: Columbia Posts: 62	Subframes, Control Arms, ??? Wanting to do something small (under $200) this weekend, have a 95 GT AODE Vert, (85k miles) free mods and gears. What are the main diff's between the subframe's? looking at steeda, kenny, etc. Will these be best first, or should the rear ctrl arms be next? any other ideas?

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03-05-2001, 01:39 PM	#2
withamc Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: Thousand Oaks, CA Posts: 396	My .02 - do the subframes first. I have an 86GT convertible. Bought the Groundpounder subs for $69 from Central Coast Mustang. I had no idea I would notice this much of a difference, but it's SO much more solid now. My top doesn't rattle against the windshield anymore. ------------------ 86 GT, GT40P heads, Crane 2031, 1.7 RR's, Cobra intake, 65mm TB, 73mm Vortech, 24# injectors, MAC GT40P headers, 2-1/2" BBK H-pipe (w/cats), Flowmasters, 3.55s, Groundpounder subs and lower control arms.

03-05-2001, 05:41 PM	#3
CJ's94GT Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Wichita,KS Posts: 59	Everyone talks about how much stiffer the SN-95 body is, but, I noticed a big difference when I put in the Steeda subs I got in a GP last year in my coupe. I wish I had gone with the Kenny Brown Extreme matrix system with the jacking rails.

03-05-2001, 06:15 PM	#4
sfedenia Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: Columbia Posts: 62	What type of welder will do the job? I have access to a wire fed MIG, but think it is like an 85 amp or something? Is it enough? thanks for the help...

03-05-2001, 08:33 PM	#5
Bob "Old School Gearhead" Join Date: Oct 1998 Location: Peru, Illinois Posts: 617	That's what you want for the job. The metal isn't that thick so you don't need a lot of amperage. I did my subs and battle boxes with an 80 amp flux core mig. ------------------ 1985 Mustang GT '85 GT 13.20 @ 105.8 / '72 Mach1 Long list...check website!! My Website