I am trying to install rear shocks but...

stanger8172 · 01-22-2002, 03:26 PM

...the bolt on the top keeps moving. I am putting a 15mm over the nut and wrenching but everything moves. What is the proper way to get the top of the shock free?

Coupe Devil · 01-22-2002, 03:58 PM

What kinda shocks do you have? Mine just had a stud on the top that stuck through the mount and a washer and nut inside the car. Did you take the bottom off first. If you did put the bottom back on and let it hold the shock still. Or you may have to dare I say clamp the top of the shock under the car and turn the nut with the wrench. Let us know how you get em off.

Brad

drudis · 01-22-2002, 04:11 PM

High speed air wrench...

stanger8172 · 01-22-2002, 04:18 PM

I got the Monroe Sensasmacks.

I started with the top and tried loosening the nut with a 15mm. It sounds like the same set up as yours, pony_power_90, with the stud on top with the washer and nut.

You think I should clamp the bottom of the stud from under the car while I loosen the top? Well, I can clamp the bottom but I'll need an arm stretcher outer to loosen the top nut at the same time

j/K

When I figure it out I'll post. Thanks for the post! Later

stanger8172 · 01-23-2002, 02:54 PM

All I had to do was get an electric grinder with a cutting wheel. I buzzed the old top stud and nut off. That saved alot of time. The new one's came with the wrong nuts( 3/8-16 course thread). I had to buy the right one's which are (3/8-24 fine thread). Someone at Monroe must have had their head up their bungholio!

Rick 91GT · 01-23-2002, 11:58 PM

Put a adjustable wrench onto the flat, or since it is the old shock you could use vise grips, this will hold it from spinning,then use a open end wrench to take the nut off, you can do the same to get it tight.

They sell a special socket that holds the shock top so it does;t spin, or a high speed air tool should rip it off as well.

01-22-2002, 03:26 PM	#1
stanger8172 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Milwaukee,Wisconsin Posts: 380	I am trying to install rear shocks but... ...the bolt on the top keeps moving. I am putting a 15mm over the nut and wrenching but everything moves. What is the proper way to get the top of the shock free? __________________ '91 LX convertible , T-5, Centerforce Dual Friction, MSD Blaster Coil, FR 9MM wires, 13* timing, 1.6rr, ported/polished/milled stock heads, 1.94/1.60 stainless valves, March Performance Pulleys, K&N panel, 1"spacer, BBK shorties, 2 1/2" off road H, Summit 2 1/2" catback

01-22-2002, 03:58 PM	#2
Coupe Devil Moderator Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Myrtle Beach SC Posts: 1,643	What kinda shocks do you have? Mine just had a stud on the top that stuck through the mount and a washer and nut inside the car. Did you take the bottom off first. If you did put the bottom back on and let it hold the shock still. Or you may have to dare I say clamp the top of the shock under the car and turn the nut with the wrench. Let us know how you get em off. Brad __________________ 1990 GT, 347, TFS TW Heads, TFS Cam, TFS Track heat, Twin turbos, FMIC, T5. Built Ford Tough Moderator

01-22-2002, 04:11 PM	#3
drudis Moderator Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Livonia, MI, USA Posts: 1,194	High speed air wrench... __________________ Darius Rudis, Moderator Corner Carvers Delight 1989 Mustang LX - Open Track Car http://www.dariusrudis.com

01-22-2002, 04:18 PM	#4
stanger8172 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Milwaukee,Wisconsin Posts: 380	I got the Monroe Sensasmacks. I started with the top and tried loosening the nut with a 15mm. It sounds like the same set up as yours, pony_power_90, with the stud on top with the washer and nut. You think I should clamp the bottom of the stud from under the car while I loosen the top? Well, I can clamp the bottom but I'll need an arm stretcher outer to loosen the top nut at the same time j/K When I figure it out I'll post. Thanks for the post! Later __________________ '91 LX convertible , T-5, Centerforce Dual Friction, MSD Blaster Coil, FR 9MM wires, 13* timing, 1.6rr, ported/polished/milled stock heads, 1.94/1.60 stainless valves, March Performance Pulleys, K&N panel, 1"spacer, BBK shorties, 2 1/2" off road H, Summit 2 1/2" catback

01-23-2002, 02:54 PM	#5
stanger8172 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Milwaukee,Wisconsin Posts: 380	All I had to do was get an electric grinder with a cutting wheel. I buzzed the old top stud and nut off. That saved alot of time. The new one's came with the wrong nuts( 3/8-16 course thread). I had to buy the right one's which are (3/8-24 fine thread). Someone at Monroe must have had their head up their bungholio! __________________ '91 LX convertible , T-5, Centerforce Dual Friction, MSD Blaster Coil, FR 9MM wires, 13* timing, 1.6rr, ported/polished/milled stock heads, 1.94/1.60 stainless valves, March Performance Pulleys, K&N panel, 1"spacer, BBK shorties, 2 1/2" off road H, Summit 2 1/2" catback

01-23-2002, 11:58 PM	#6
Rick 91GT Procharged! Join Date: May 1999 Location: Hanover, PA Posts: 1,539	Put a adjustable wrench onto the flat, or since it is the old shock you could use vise grips, this will hold it from spinning,then use a open end wrench to take the nut off, you can do the same to get it tight. They sell a special socket that holds the shock top so it does;t spin, or a high speed air tool should rip it off as well. __________________ *D/R 10108 NMRA Drag Radial, 25.5 chassis, F1R* *Check out RNH Performance Performance Engines and Custom Fabrication.* *From Mild to Wild we can build what you want, when you want it.* FOR SALE Stainless Steel Torque Box Supports

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