replacing rear quarter panels

GhettoPop · 01-24-2006, 06:23 PM

Stating to see some rust in the rear wheel wells and thinking about replacing both rear quarter panels. Whats the best way to get them? Do they sell new OEM panels? Repro? Is the cheapest way to find a doner car and part it out? What exactly are the quarter [anels "skins" I always see advirtised? How much (approx) would a shop charge to remove and install the quarter panels? I would also consider removing the rust from the panels but I think that will be an expensive job and the rust will just come back.

Thanks in advance.

82 GT · 01-24-2006, 11:49 PM

It would be much cheaper to let a body shop repair the rust rather than have them install new quarters. How bad is the rust? If repaired correct, it shouldn't come back for a long time.

tarmon8r · 01-25-2006, 01:29 AM

Your talking about 20+ hours per quarter panel to do it right. Save your time and effort and forget about a "used quarter". Be sure to get a "CAPA" certified rear quarter panel. Its certified to fit, however its not always right. Im sure there are still NOS (new old stock) panels in the pipe line. The right way is not section in piece in the bottom. It should be at the C pillar about mid way up the hatch rear glass, and at the factory seam in the trunk and door. And if you have really bad rust, then the floor pan and inner quarter panel could be questionable. So you see, to replace the quarter panel could be a can of worms.
If you can even find a body man that will touch your car, they usually dont want to do "restorations", except for of course restoration shops or if you know someone. Most shops dont want to touch rust jobs.
As long as its not a show car, It can be fixed at a reasonable cost with some rust inhibitor, grinding, cutting, sectioning, bondo, and repainting with a blend. Good luck.

GhettoPop · 01-25-2006, 02:31 PM

i will snap some pics and post them for you guys to see. the rust is not that bad i just hate to see it get worse.

01-24-2006, 06:23 PM	#1
GhettoPop Gimme a Drink! Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: NYC Posts: 694	replacing rear quarter panels Stating to see some rust in the rear wheel wells and thinking about replacing both rear quarter panels. Whats the best way to get them? Do they sell new OEM panels? Repro? Is the cheapest way to find a doner car and part it out? What exactly are the quarter [anels "skins" I always see advirtised? How much (approx) would a shop charge to remove and install the quarter panels? I would also consider removing the rust from the panels but I think that will be an expensive job and the rust will just come back. Thanks in advance. __________________ 1990 GT,stock T-5,K&N w/o air silencer,March underdrives,FMS wires,timing@14*,PA Perf 130amp alt,Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter,Steeda adj quadrant/clutch cable/firewall adj,Centerforce II clutch,o/r x-pipe,Magnaflow SS catback,g-load brace, subframes,Bilstein struts/shocks,Autometer gauges, 136k and running strong!

01-24-2006, 11:49 PM	#2
82 GT Import Slayer Join Date: May 1999 Posts: 2,241	Re: replacing rear quarter panels It would be much cheaper to let a body shop repair the rust rather than have them install new quarters. How bad is the rust? If repaired correct, it shouldn't come back for a long time. __________________ '82 GT 351W (.060)Comp Cams 274* Extreme Energy cam, ported & polished heads w/ 1.94/1.60 valves 10.3:1 flat top pistons,stealth intake, Mallory dizzy,Holley 750dp carb, BBK shorties,Flowmaster exhaust,C-4 with 3700 stall converter, B&M pro shifter,8.8 rear, 4:10's, subframes, electric fan, powermaster alternator, 4 core radiator.

01-25-2006, 01:29 AM	#3
tarmon8r Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: manassas, va Posts: 186	Re: replacing rear quarter panels Your talking about 20+ hours per quarter panel to do it right. Save your time and effort and forget about a "used quarter". Be sure to get a "CAPA" certified rear quarter panel. Its certified to fit, however its not always right. Im sure there are still NOS (new old stock) panels in the pipe line. The right way is not section in piece in the bottom. It should be at the C pillar about mid way up the hatch rear glass, and at the factory seam in the trunk and door. And if you have really bad rust, then the floor pan and inner quarter panel could be questionable. So you see, to replace the quarter panel could be a can of worms. If you can even find a body man that will touch your car, they usually dont want to do "restorations", except for of course restoration shops or if you know someone. Most shops dont want to touch rust jobs. As long as its not a show car, It can be fixed at a reasonable cost with some rust inhibitor, grinding, cutting, sectioning, bondo, and repainting with a blend. Good luck. __________________ 1983 mustang, 393 cubic inch stroker small block, victor jr heads and intake, gold race 1.6 roller rockers. comp cam 304, 244@ .050. .576" hydralic retro roller cam,lunati rods. block was o-ringed,10:1 forged pistons, speed pro fit fit rings, clevite bearings,msd distributor and igniton,be cool huge radiator, black lite electric fan, march underdrive pulleys, mildon deep sump oil pan, mac 1 3.4" long tube headers, 3" dr gas x-pipe and mac exhaust,ARP bolts. car weighs 2900 lbs w/out driver, sub frames, weld wheels, mickey thompson sportsman pro 26 x 10.5 x 15's,#8 fuel line steel braided

01-25-2006, 02:31 PM	#4
GhettoPop Gimme a Drink! Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: NYC Posts: 694	Re: replacing rear quarter panels i will snap some pics and post them for you guys to see. the rust is not that bad i just hate to see it get worse. __________________ 1990 GT,stock T-5,K&N w/o air silencer,March underdrives,FMS wires,timing@14*,PA Perf 130amp alt,Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter,Steeda adj quadrant/clutch cable/firewall adj,Centerforce II clutch,o/r x-pipe,Magnaflow SS catback,g-load brace, subframes,Bilstein struts/shocks,Autometer gauges, 136k and running strong!

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