rev limiter
 

Whats the cheapest and best way to get around the stock rev limiter?

It may not be the cheapest, but if you purchase a custom burnt chip (i.e. JMS Chip) you can have them set the rev limiter to whatever you desire.

Just as a side note, if you're in stock or near stock trim, you really don't need to go much higher than the stock limiter. Stock 5.0's HP&TQ drop off quicker than you think. Even my heads/cam/intake combo made peak power at only 5300 rpm and peak TQ at 4500. Just food for thought.

Take care,
E

I'm not quite sure that a custom burnt chip can raise the rev limiter on a '90.

It should work. The 90, just as my 91, used the EEC-IV computer. He probably has an A9L computer which should work just fine. I'm sure JMS can do it.

E

With a custom chip you can set the rev limiter at whatever you want or virtually eliminate it all together.

I should know this but...... What does the stock rev limiter do?, does it cut off spark or fuel, or both, and at what RPM? I've accedetly reved mine to about 7k for a second so what is it good for? thanks

If you were going by the factory tach you probably didnt come anywhere near 7k. The higher you go the more innacurate the factory tach is. I found mine to be off almost 1500 compared to my monster tach. There is one year computer that has the limiter set at 7300. All others are set at 6250. The limiter pulls both spark and fuel, which can be disasterous under boost.

A custom chip is the cheapest, the stock rev-limiter on your car cuts fuel ONLY, sequentially at 6250, still need spark to fire whats left. Understand that the rev limiter can only stop the fuel from flowing, it cannot stop the momentum of the motor, thats why it showed on the tach, which is notoriously off by around a 1000rpm up there. You don't need to get around the limiter anyway do you, whats your reasons?

If your defininition of pulling spark means that the car is still "firing" then you obviously have no idea what pulling spark means and do not have much expierence with tuning or working with the eec. You obviously have never ridden against a limiter before either. The stock limiter does pull both fuel and spark, meaning advanced spark. When you hit the limiter you can put your foot down all day long, but the car will not rev past the limiter. That is why guys use two-steps, so they can keep their foot down and not go past a certain rpm at launch. This is also why on a blown car it is important to set the factory limiter above the limiter on say a 6AL, so you pull spark only and the car will only rev up to the chip in the limiter, and you do not pull fuel.

No Kidding about the limiter
 

When I installed a E303 in my car and drove it around,I revved it to what I thought was 7000 rpm's,then I read an article in Muscle Mustangs and Fast Fords that there is a 6250 rev-limiter in the car.
My first thought what does some magazine guy know about my car,if the factory tach said 7000 rpm then by god that motor just revved to 7000 rpm's.
Well I went and bought a Auto Meter tach that has 2 needles on it,one that moves and one that sits at the shift point. What a wake up call that was,I had one of my friends in the car with me and I say watch how high this E303 cam can rev........right about the time the tach hit 6200 the needle started shuttering,and I was so emberrassed,last time I did not believe what a magazine told me for awhile,they still once in awhile contradict themselves but some of that propoganda can be money saving.
Long story short,if you want to get around the rev-limiter you can buy an Extender,EPEC,PMS,or switch it out for DFI,I think DFI has changed their name but I think everyone knows what I am talking about.

:)

I see, and what year was that special windsor EEC that the limiter was set to 7300 rpm? I'm sure with your vast knowledge you can supply me with that info right?:rolleyes:

And another thing, your right, I don't spend much time hitting the rev-limiter as my package is done right. Probably a result of my inexperience.

good point
 

Good point GTSR,
I would like to know what year also,if I can find a junk GT/LX with that computer,I do not need to buy an Extender then.

Eric, i have pegged mine past 7grand by accident! the needle went in the black area. i was washing my car and vacuumed the carpets, well i wasnt paying attention and i put the carpet under the gas pedal. when i was going down the road, i felt like doing the 3-2 shift, well thats when it stuck and oh shiat!:eek: first thing i did was turn the ignition off. i had no idea what just happened. now i know the factory tachs are off, but if i pegged it to the bottom of the gauge past the 7 mark, wouldnt i be past 6250? i lucked out, nothing happened to the motor. the lifters were clackin, but i let it sit and ran it gently and they pumped back up. oh i have seen a 90's 5 ohs that been put past 6250 with an aftermarket tach. the car was stock with cats. one of my stupid friends tried to see if he can make the car "pull" up there. why? i dont know. i just wanted to see him blow his motor. guess what, blew the lifters apart. what a stupid kid:eek:

hmmmm maybe it is the 90 Mustangs with the 7300 limiter,I can only speak for myself,maybe my car is a ringer with a 6250 in it.

I watched both tachs one day(now I know why I see double) and the factory tach was like 800rpm off,just going through the gears easy it is 400rpm off,get an aftermarket tach to be safe so you do not end up gearing it wrong,because that can really be frustrating.

Good luck with it

Guy's, there is no windsor EEC that limits at 7300 rpm, "Mr. Junior member/44 post's" is dreaming. Next!:rolleyes:

No, my 90 has the 6250 as well. I have used an extender and then a eec tuner to bypass it on mine. Byron who developed the sneec datalogger was telling me about this one. I will find out what year it is from and what the computer code is and post it for you guys later.

When did post count become a sign of someone's intelligence? You were a newbie yourself once. I am trying to help out and if you do not agree that is fine, but that is no reason to put me or anyone else down. That only further illustrates your ignorance.

thanks Eric,
appreciate it I would really like to know because Ford is notorious for building special computers and what not,look at the difference between the 97 and 98 Cobras,98 has a lot more torque than a 97 would not have knew that until I drove both under the same conditions.

But yet your 1st responce to my input was that I "obviously don't have any experience in tuning" and "I've never been up against the rev limiter", can't wait to see the Ford part number on that 7300 rpm limited EEC.

LOL

I just sent Byron an email for the processor code. I will post it when he sends it back. Again, I am try to share my experience and I am not looking to argue.

I just looked it up on the EEC board and the 95 GT T4MO processor revs up to 7000 from the factory. So that is good news to 94-95 owners, but doesn't help 87-93 cars.

Why would Ford set the limiter to 7300???? They are all limited the same. I once missed a shift and burried the tach, that proves how off the stock tach is.

Here is the coding from that particular EEC for limiter:

PIP 833 # Minimum PIP period. (PIP = 6250000/maxRPM)

6250000 / 833 = 7500.

I received all this info from the guys on at the EEC Tuner forum. You can join the group at: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/EECTuner/

Pulled Timing
 

I have never been behind the wheel of one so I am not sure about this,but didn't Ford designed some type of input into the 94-95 V8 5-speed computers to pull timing under full throttle powershifting,to protect the tranny? I knew a guy that had a 94 and this is what he told me,I have never heard of such a thing but I am curious if nayone else has heard this lie?

Pro-Flow sells the "pih" kit for 94-95 Mustangs which replaces their computers with an 87-93 computer. Here is their claim:

- Convert your 94/95 Mustang to an earlier computer
- Removed 6-8 degree spark retard feature built into newer computers
- 0.5-0.7 1/4 mile time reduction
- On/Off switch
- LED lights indicate power on, low speed, and high speed fan operation

A few of my friends run this kit, and they said the picked up about .4 in the 1/4. They also like it because it has a low and high speed fan control setting.

so RPM, your saying my tach is off by 1000 or 1200 rpms?(estimating by me going past the 7k mark) that much? see, i would buy aftermarket tach, but i want mine in the factory location and i dont want an aluminum insert with the Autometer gauges. i want to leave it stock. i wonder if anyone calibrates them? i have a place that calibrated speedos that is only an hour from my house. i wonder if they would do tachs.

another thing. with all the aftermarket products for the 87-93, why didnt someone make an aftermarket OEM type tach?

total agreement
 

Oh man this must be good Friday,that is one of the best suggestions no one ever came up with answer or easy fix.

I do not understand why the factory tach is off that much but it sure is,and my wake up call was watching the two together.

I do not know what happens as far as what is pulled either spark or fuel,but I think at that rpm you are hurting the valvetrain anyway,yeah I know cars leave on the 2-step all the time but they are only on the 2-step for .400 so no comparison there.

I'm not saying the stock tach is off by 1200 rpm all the time, I'm saying when the engine goes to 2000 to 7000 in about .4 seconds, the tach probably just had some inertia and carried through past the 7k mark. But I when I am at the track, the tach seems "lazy" and is clearly not accurate. It just seems slow, the higher your RPM and the faster you accerate the engine (accerating the car or missing a shift), the more inaccurate the stock tack will be. I bracket race an have a hard time shifting at the same RPM because of the stock tach.
Need an Autometer! For the street the stock tack is fine, but if you want to get very consistent track times, you need an aftermarket tach.

Autometer make tachs in a huge selection of sizes, you can make one fit with some patience. Check out thier site:

http://www.autometer.com/hp/index.html

Re: Pulled Timing
 

I believe that was only on automatic cars to provide a smoother transition between gears, and I think it was at any speed and throttle position, not just WOT.I could be wrong on this though.

RPM. i know about the Autometers, but do not in any way want to do anything to hurt my dash or cluster. meaning drilling or anything else. but yeah,the Autometer is the way to go for accuracy.

I just found out that the A3M1 factory EEC-IV for 93 and factory replacement 5.0L mustang 5spd also goes above 6250. The Rev limit is at 7000RPM instead of 6250 because PIP filter is 700 instead of 961 like the others.