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#1 |
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: ST. LOUIS
Posts: 6
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#2 |
I'd rather be basketweaving
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 2,551
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![]() I would first check your IAC located on your throttle body. Unplug it and see if the problem changes. Either way, I would remove it and clean it with carb cleaner.
Then when you are done, go through the idle reset process as described here: http://www.corral.net/tech/maintenance/idlereset.html hope this helps
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NMRA O/C 9516 NA pumpgas stickshift 347 10.65@125.6, 6.73@100, 1.41 60ft |
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#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: MOUNTAINHOME, IDAHO
Posts: 20
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![]() I had a similar problem with my 95 stang. My RPM's would raise as much as 1500 rev's, almost like there was a midget in the eng bay pulling the throttle cable. I also got a check eng light simultaneosly(spelling?) What I had was a dirty throttle position sensor/butterfly valve. If you remove the air intake tubing at the throttle body you will be able to access the inside of the T/B. I sprayed some carb cleaner on the butterfly valve, then moved the valve around to ensure free movement. Worked for me- Oh, one more thing - My car had a sticker on the T/B that said not to spray cleaner into the T/B. Warning you of a protective coating inside the T/B. I never had a prob though. Just some input. Worked for me.
Good luck
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MATT KNIGHT 1995 5.0, msd 6al, msd coil, bbk longtubes, bbk offroad, 2 chamber flows, power tower shift, 98 gt wheels |
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: ST. LOUIS
Posts: 6
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![]() Thanks for the advice, will give it a try and see if that clear up the RPM issue. Also just as a heads up I think the warning on the throttle body is because of a teflon coating that is in there to help prevent the butterfly from "sticking". Read a previous post trying to find info on my problem and they suggested cleaning the throttle body with dish detergent and water on a tooth brush to help save the coating - but eiterway don't think it a great difference!
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#5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: ST. LOUIS
Posts: 6
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![]() fiveohpatrol - tried that link you provided and it didn't work. Went to corral.net web site to find it but appears they are having a problem with there web page at the moment. Anyway you could give me a quick run down on the idle reset process after I clean the IAC - also what does that stand for?
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#6 |
I'd rather be basketweaving
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 2,551
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![]() it worked for me, but heres the text from it anyway...
"It seems that many people have trouble with the way their 5.0 Mustang idles. Symptoms are usually a stumbling or rough idle which may be the result of modifications, or any number of other factors that may contribute to the problem. Clogged Emissions Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valves or Idle Air Bypass (IAB) solenoids are often to blame. A bad Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) will cause the engine to "hunt" for a proper idle setting. If you are experiencing idle problems first check the IAB. If it has large amounts of carbon deposits in it you may need to clean it using regular carburetor cleaner. You will have to remove it to do this, DO NOT clean it while it is on the car! If you have checked to make sure that your EGR, IAB, and TPS are clean and properly set and you are still experiencing problems try the following: 1.Clear the EEC-IV's idle memory by disconnecting the battery for 20+ minutes. 2.Disconnect the Idle air bypass solonoid 3.Reconnect battery 4. Start engine and set idle speed to desired RPM with stop screw on throttle body (900 rpm works great with E303 or larger cam) 5. Turn off engine and reconnect the air bypass solenoid * set TPS to 0.90 - 0.95 volts (Do not exceed 1.0 volts MAKE SURE!) Use a digital volt meter! 6.Start engine and let it idle for 2 minutes with no accessories on. 7. Turn off engine for two minutes 8. Start engine again and run for 2 minutes with every accessory turned on. 9. Turn engine off again. Your computer should have now re-learned the new idle settings. This procedure assumes that you have a clean IAB valve. If it is carboned up then you may need to remove it and clean it with carburetor cleaner. " This process always works for me. btw, some call it the IAB, some call it the IAC, (idle air control/bypass) It is a computer controlled "valve" that allows air to enter the engine pass the throttle body depending on different conditions. If it is stuck open, and needing cleaned, it will cause a high idle.
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NMRA O/C 9516 NA pumpgas stickshift 347 10.65@125.6, 6.73@100, 1.41 60ft |
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#7 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: ST. LOUIS
Posts: 6
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![]() Good deal - prob wouldn't be too bad of a idea to check, clean, or replace those items anyway since I don't know what the guy did before me in the way of mods and maintenance - do know a different intake (Cobra) and b303 cam were in that car at one time before I bought it - now has been returned to stock intake/cam, not sure why they went back to stock? Thanks again!
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#8 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: SanAntonio, Tx
Posts: 957
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![]() make sure the clutch cable is adjusted right, especially if it has an aftermarket firewall adjuster and/or cable and quadrant.
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X-Texas highway patrol ssp 1990 coupe - exploder Gt-40 iron heads, Explorer intake, 19 lber's. E-cam. crane 1.7 rollers. 190fp. 75mm maf. 65mm tb, tubular subframe connectors, mac cai, Asp crank pulley, T-5, king cobra clutch, flowtech 1-5/8 unequals, mac X-pipe Frpp driveshaft, lakewood Lca's. race weight 3,160 12.69 @ 107.35, 1.71 60' 26x8.5 drag's 3.90 gear 13.20 @ 106.91 - 235/60/15 firestones 2.3 60' 3.27 gear |
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#9 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 158
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![]() My car does it too, to an extent. It does it in cold weather (below 40 - Florida). It will blip up about 500 RPM's between shifts. In any weather though, my RPMS won't drop below 1150 while coasting to a stop with the car out of gear. About a second after I stop completely, It drops back down to normal. Is this normal, or just another form of the same symptom? I clean my MAF, TB, and IAC regularly, but have never cleaned the EGR. Engine is stock.
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#10 |
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: ST. LOUIS
Posts: 6
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![]() In a nutshell that is the same exact thing my car is doing - not a big deal but gets annoying. Seems to happen after the car has warmed up, paid closer attention to it last night coming back from work. I plan on going through everything Friday afternoon - will let you know what I find!
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#11 | |
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#12 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: SanAntonio, Tx
Posts: 957
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![]() READ THE TITLE! SIMI! "between shifts", NOT "surging idle" anytime shifting is involved....???
my pedal was out of adjustment at the firewall adjuster, and engaged the clutch bye just barely touching the pedal, therefore throttle wasnt shut all the way when i depressed the clutch, making it rev....just a thought, wont hurt to consider it mr simi sir... ![]() ![]()
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X-Texas highway patrol ssp 1990 coupe - exploder Gt-40 iron heads, Explorer intake, 19 lber's. E-cam. crane 1.7 rollers. 190fp. 75mm maf. 65mm tb, tubular subframe connectors, mac cai, Asp crank pulley, T-5, king cobra clutch, flowtech 1-5/8 unequals, mac X-pipe Frpp driveshaft, lakewood Lca's. race weight 3,160 12.69 @ 107.35, 1.71 60' 26x8.5 drag's 3.90 gear 13.20 @ 106.91 - 235/60/15 firestones 2.3 60' 3.27 gear |
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#13 | |
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#14 |
I'd rather be basketweaving
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 2,551
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![]() Look Simi, he was just suggesting something to look at. We're all here to help eachother out. Alot of the time, someone's past experiences can really help out someone thats having a similar problem.
Sometimes you just have to state the obvious just to make sure. we're here to help, not make people feel stupid
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NMRA O/C 9516 NA pumpgas stickshift 347 10.65@125.6, 6.73@100, 1.41 60ft |
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#15 | |
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#16 |
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Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: SanAntonio, Tx
Posts: 957
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![]() No problem hoSS
![]() This can still be related all together, a bad signal causing the ecu not reading that the blade is closed between a shift, the clutch can be pressed in too fast, before the ecu realizes the blade is shut, the clutch goes in......ok forget it lol I think i would know if my foot was still on the throttle while shifting 'hoss'.....i must be doing some kind of decent driving to be clicking off 12's with my combo and gears. thank you ![]() carry on..
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X-Texas highway patrol ssp 1990 coupe - exploder Gt-40 iron heads, Explorer intake, 19 lber's. E-cam. crane 1.7 rollers. 190fp. 75mm maf. 65mm tb, tubular subframe connectors, mac cai, Asp crank pulley, T-5, king cobra clutch, flowtech 1-5/8 unequals, mac X-pipe Frpp driveshaft, lakewood Lca's. race weight 3,160 12.69 @ 107.35, 1.71 60' 26x8.5 drag's 3.90 gear 13.20 @ 106.91 - 235/60/15 firestones 2.3 60' 3.27 gear |
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#17 | |
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![]() That's a pretty good trap speed for your combo Coupe, considering your gearing. I too can click off 12s...and...11s... ![]() ![]() Last edited by Simi Stang; 08-28-2003 at 02:25 PM.. |
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#18 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: SanAntonio, Tx
Posts: 957
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![]() Lol, yea i didnt mean to turn it into a piss match, i misunderstood you i guess about the foot on gas thing.....no not harsh, i can handle it
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X-Texas highway patrol ssp 1990 coupe - exploder Gt-40 iron heads, Explorer intake, 19 lber's. E-cam. crane 1.7 rollers. 190fp. 75mm maf. 65mm tb, tubular subframe connectors, mac cai, Asp crank pulley, T-5, king cobra clutch, flowtech 1-5/8 unequals, mac X-pipe Frpp driveshaft, lakewood Lca's. race weight 3,160 12.69 @ 107.35, 1.71 60' 26x8.5 drag's 3.90 gear 13.20 @ 106.91 - 235/60/15 firestones 2.3 60' 3.27 gear |
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#19 | |
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#20 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: ST. LOUIS
Posts: 6
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![]() Thanks for the info...finally got around to looking into the problem. Ended up being a few things - the IAB (IAC) sensor was carboned up, throttle stop was turned to far in keeping the butterfly open a bit, and the idle needed to be adjust. Also the computer was reset in the process - running perfect now - idle even smoothed out! Thanks again!
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