shouldn't I be running faster
 

Last Saturday, i went to the track. I ran a best of 13.9. Last year I ran a 13.3 with the same combo, save for the fact that we were on Drag Radials and a stock trans. Since then we put a new AOD in with a PI stallion converter and a trick valve body. Now I know that having cheap GT+2 tires are killing the 60 ft. like a 2.45 with road race springs. Also Im hitting like 6000 RPM's at 1100 ft. and am bouncing off the rev limiter as I cross the line, I think this is slowing me down. I still am running 13.9's at 102~103. Last year I ran a 13.3 at 103.45 crossing the line at 5300 RPM's, could the Converter be making that much of a difference? Is it just that I am a rookie driver? Here is the break down of the car...

89 LX convertable
A-Trim pullied to 10#'s
24# injectors, 73 mm mass air, 70 mm throttle body
AOD tranny custom built by TSI with PI converter, Manuel/automatic valvebody, lightened internals
4.10 gear
stock sized rims and tires
drop springs (steeda springs)

I plan on adding a new cam, intake, and porting and polishing my heads in the next two weeks, what will be the impact on the car now?

HAHAHA! Vengence on all you big rear end gear guys! Seriously, I don't know that much about torque converters, but sounds like you either installed it wrong or it was bad to begin with. Must be slipping somehow, were you the one who installed it?

converter might be to loose? just a thought what does it flash up to? what stall speed does it hold?

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SOLD THE 87GT, .. GT40, 70mmTB, 75mmBullet, 24lbinjectors, cold air induction, Edelbrok 6025 Rpm's, Inch phonolic spacer, tall FMSvalve covers, an SFI balancer, Canton 7quart, the shortblock... Lunati 51025 (224/232 .535/. 544 @112 deg) Ross lightweight pistons (10:1) Eagle H-Beams, Total Seal plasma Moly Rings, Clevite bearings, ARP throughout, FMS main Girdle&Studs, Forged Crank, of course HV-OilPump and hardened FMS shaft, Dual Friction centerforce, T5, and 4.10's Longtubes and 2.25 tail pi

Yes the converter is set up at 2800 rpm's
I never figured out that whole flash thing. If i give it moderate gas to get off the line it tach's up to like 2500, then at 3000 it shifts and stays at 3000, the guy that built my tran's test drove the car and the converter is working fine. he told me that because it is a non lock up-it was going to run about 500 rpm's higher, then normal, so i don't think im out of the norm by to much

Since you are replacing the cam get new valve springs that can handle higher rpm and get either the p.m.s of the ford exder. to raise your rev. limit your combo seems to like higher rpms. With haveing tall gears and a non lock up conv. this should help put you in the 12s with drag rad. or slicks. Do not forget with this being a new combo to you it will still take time to learn how to run it. also go with a manifold like the TFS track heat or the edl. perfomer RPM, holloy street

I am going to get a Crane cam's kit, also Im getting either the MAC (if it's available) or the trick flow intake when im close to finishing.

Hey Clearwater, do yourself a favor and get some real tires. Why would you put in a stahl converter if you were going to run street tires? The converter will flash and blow your tires out from under you. After reviewing your combo, you will get more out of a good tire than any of the other mods you have listed. 500hp is no good if you cant use it!!!!

The last thing you need is an extender.

your right, im going to bolt on a set of 28" tall ET street's onto a spare set of 10 holes, and weld in the subframes i bought last year, then on top of that put a decent suspension out back. with those parts im hoping for 1.8 60' times, that should put me in the 12's with the combo that i have.