MustangWorks.com : Ford Forums - View Single Post - Filling a engine with WD-40?? make it new again?

PNYXPS66 · 06-15-2001, 11:52 PM

Unit 5302 -- I'd imagine the entire engine would hate compressing liquids; liquids don't compress hence the theory behind hydraulics (simple physics)

Valve trains tend to "derail" too (sorry, bad joke!) I've heard of running ATF through the throttle body or carb to unstick valves aid sealing, etc while the engine is running. We used to do that in the salvage yard I worked at when resurrecting old engines for sale. Marvel Mystery oil is the best "maintenance" cleaner I've seen, and "Engine Restorer" available in a silver can at your local parts store does a magnificent job in helping older engines restore lost power due to wear and tear. I've used it several times as an enhancer during tune-up/ oil change services on high mileage engines; gotten rave reviews about it too. Theoretically, the WD-40 idea seems a bit wastefull. I'd go with running ATF in the crank case replacing a quart of oil at oil change time. Use a cheap oil filter and change the filter at 3-500 miles and top off the oil again; do this 2-3 times, then add the engine restorer to seal the scratches and nicks that occur on the cylinder walls from normal wear and tear. Also, hope your seals are good, because anytime you add a high detergent cleaner, it will tend to remove the sludge that replaces and fills the gaps created by worn or dried and cracked gaskets and seals possibly making your engine leak like crazy. That's one reason synthetic oil got a bad wrap. Personally, I clean an engine this way then change to synthetic oil after replacing any bad seals. Synthetic oil doesn't create sludge because it's not carbon based like natural petroleumn oils. This is what sludge is when the water is cooked out of oil under normal driving conditions -- concentrated carbon deposits.

------------------
Pony Express 66
God Speed and keep it between the lines!

06-15-2001, 11:52 PM	#12
PNYXPS66 Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Beaufort,SC,USA Posts: 72	Unit 5302 -- I'd imagine the entire engine would hate compressing liquids; liquids don't compress hence the theory behind hydraulics (simple physics) Valve trains tend to "derail" too (sorry, bad joke!) I've heard of running ATF through the throttle body or carb to unstick valves aid sealing, etc while the engine is running. We used to do that in the salvage yard I worked at when resurrecting old engines for sale. Marvel Mystery oil is the best "maintenance" cleaner I've seen, and "Engine Restorer" available in a silver can at your local parts store does a magnificent job in helping older engines restore lost power due to wear and tear. I've used it several times as an enhancer during tune-up/ oil change services on high mileage engines; gotten rave reviews about it too. Theoretically, the WD-40 idea seems a bit wastefull. I'd go with running ATF in the crank case replacing a quart of oil at oil change time. Use a cheap oil filter and change the filter at 3-500 miles and top off the oil again; do this 2-3 times, then add the engine restorer to seal the scratches and nicks that occur on the cylinder walls from normal wear and tear. Also, hope your seals are good, because anytime you add a high detergent cleaner, it will tend to remove the sludge that replaces and fills the gaps created by worn or dried and cracked gaskets and seals possibly making your engine leak like crazy. That's one reason synthetic oil got a bad wrap. Personally, I clean an engine this way then change to synthetic oil after replacing any bad seals. Synthetic oil doesn't create sludge because it's not carbon based like natural petroleumn oils. This is what sludge is when the water is cooked out of oil under normal driving conditions -- concentrated carbon deposits. ------------------ Pony Express 66 God Speed and keep it between the lines!