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BOW TIE SMASHER · 10-28-2002, 09:16 PM

O.K. heres what I was told to do.
#1-Set your VOM to Volts 20K setting then place black lead on negative side of the battery, place red lead on the "A" position of the connector harness (this is MAF PWR wire) with key on engine off - you should read +10.5 volts or higher (I got +12.15)

#2 Set your VOM to ohms place the black lead again on the neg side of the battery and this time place the red lead on the "B" position of the connector harness (this is the PWR GND wire) with key on engine off - you can check it on 2000K, 200K, or 20K but your reading should NOT be higher than 0.2 ohms (I got 0.13)

#3 If its a conversion next check that "C" position (this is the MAF RTN) is connected to pin # 9 in the computer

#4 Also for conversions Check that the "D" position (this is the MAF SIG) is connected to pin # 50 in the computer.

#5 Next with MAF sensor connected and battery dis-connected cut a small piece of the protective covering away from the 4 wires going into the MAF sensor Pink, Black, Green, White you will need to cut a small slit, or if you can poke the probes thru the wiring to get a connection between the VOM leads and the wires.

#6 re-connect the battery and start the car now, with VOM on 20K volts setting probe the "B" side (PWR GND) with the black probe, and the "A" side (MAF PWR) with the red probe at idle you should have +12 volts or so (he told me battery voltage was ok) (mine was 12.47) and then idle car to 2000 rpm and it should go up (mine went to 14.69)

#7 now check "C" (MAF RTN) with black lead, and "D" (MAF SIG) with red lead, still with VOM set on 20 k volts, and the car running at idle you should get .7 to .9 and at 2000 rpm 1.4 to 1.6 ( I got 0.01, and with rpm at 2000 it only went to 0.02) * where the beginning of my trouble started.

#8 last test I was told to perform with VOM set on 20k volt setting and with the key on engine off check the connector once again this time ground black lead to battery, and red lead to "C" (MAF RTN) wire, then to "D" (MAF SIG) wire if you get +4.0volts or higher on either test then it may be the MAF sensor. *based on my numbers on the tests this is what the tech concluded.

I also have a 93 cobra computer so if you don't have this particular computer your results may vary-write down your numbers call and let the tech know you test procedures

If you perform these tests and any numbers don't match here is the Ford Tech line in Michigan.
1-(586)-468-1356 Good Luck

10-28-2002, 09:16 PM	#7
BOW TIE SMASHER Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Thomasville, NC Posts: 10	O.K. heres what I was told to do. #1-Set your VOM to Volts 20K setting then place black lead on negative side of the battery, place red lead on the "A" position of the connector harness (this is MAF PWR wire) with key on engine off - you should read +10.5 volts or higher (I got +12.15) #2 Set your VOM to ohms place the black lead again on the neg side of the battery and this time place the red lead on the "B" position of the connector harness (this is the PWR GND wire) with key on engine off - you can check it on 2000K, 200K, or 20K but your reading should NOT be higher than 0.2 ohms (I got 0.13) #3 If its a conversion next check that "C" position (this is the MAF RTN) is connected to pin # 9 in the computer #4 Also for conversions Check that the "D" position (this is the MAF SIG) is connected to pin # 50 in the computer. #5 Next with MAF sensor connected and battery dis-connected cut a small piece of the protective covering away from the 4 wires going into the MAF sensor Pink, Black, Green, White you will need to cut a small slit, or if you can poke the probes thru the wiring to get a connection between the VOM leads and the wires. #6 re-connect the battery and start the car now, with VOM on 20K volts setting probe the "B" side (PWR GND) with the black probe, and the "A" side (MAF PWR) with the red probe at idle you should have +12 volts or so (he told me battery voltage was ok) (mine was 12.47) and then idle car to 2000 rpm and it should go up (mine went to 14.69) #7 now check "C" (MAF RTN) with black lead, and "D" (MAF SIG) with red lead, still with VOM set on 20 k volts, and the car running at idle you should get .7 to .9 and at 2000 rpm 1.4 to 1.6 ( I got 0.01, and with rpm at 2000 it only went to 0.02) * where the beginning of my trouble started. #8 last test I was told to perform with VOM set on 20k volt setting and with the key on engine off check the connector once again this time ground black lead to battery, and red lead to "C" (MAF RTN) wire, then to "D" (MAF SIG) wire if you get +4.0volts or higher on either test then it may be the MAF sensor. *based on my numbers on the tests this is what the tech concluded. I also have a 93 cobra computer so if you don't have this particular computer your results may vary-write down your numbers call and let the tech know you test procedures If you perform these tests and any numbers don't match here is the Ford Tech line in Michigan. 1-(586)-468-1356 Good Luck