[93GTDIN]

sounds like a timing issue to me. Try moving the distributor a couple of teeth advance/retard.

Advancing the timing should help with a start. Try cranking it and having someone moving the distributor while you crank. Once you get it started, dont turn it off. Let the car idle for 10 minutes so the computer can learn the idle. IF the idle is REALLY bad, you probably have a vacuum leak. If at any time you werent sure you got a vacuum line on there quite right, you probably didn't. Air is very thin and fluid and will leak anywhere it can, guaranteed.

Other things to check:

spark plugs/wries. Make you sure you have all the wires going to the right cylinders. The car will start if you have them messed up, but its best to be firing on all 8. Sounds stupid, but its happened... to me.

EGR: This is a touchy subject. Depending on what year your EEC is, they have different dependencies on the EGR system being set up correctly. My friend disconnected his EGR/SMOG on his 90 and it runs fine. I blocked mine off in my 93 and the car wouldnt start. Hooked it back up and voila... So anyway, make sure your EGR solenoid works, has vacuum, is clean, doesnt leak, etc.

Fuel pressure, if you're adjustable, make sure you've got your FP set upper 30's.

Make sure the MAF is tight and plugged in securely.

Getting it started for the first time is all about timing, find the sweet spot, get it running, let the computer adjust, then go to 12-14 degrees or whatever you want to run.

OF course, all this is considering you have your valvetrain aligned properly.

A word on valvetrain adjustment:
Zzero lash does not mean hand tight. Zero lash is when the rocker begins to put friction on the pushrod, IE when you start to feel resistance, thats zero lash. Then, break out your handy dandy torque wrench and tighten to 20 lbs-ft. If it takes mroe than one full turn, you need shims. simple, right?

have fun
Dino