Hey man, I just realized, if the entire lines are full of air, you're going to have to either crank the hell out of the motor to clear the air, or turn the key to on, like you're about to start it, and either hook up a pressure gauge with a bleed hose like you're going to check the pressure on your fuel rail, or just push the little pin in the middle of the valve (looks like a tire valvestem) and let the air come out until fuel come out. the pump might cycle on while you do this. When you turn the key to on, does the fuel pump come on for just a second? It's supposed to do that until the fuel pressure gets up to like 40 PSI. it's got a switch that turns it off when the pressure is up. So it basically pressurizes the air and stops, so you have to open it up and let the pressure drop so the pump will kick on to push the fuel through and push the air out. Does that make sense? But if the pump is not coming on at all, ask PKRWUD.
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Michael Black
QuantumMotorsports
Norman, OK
1984 LX Hatch
306 w/ TRW forged flat toppers, Comp Cams Magnum 292H, GT40P heads w/ 3 angle valve job, .550 lift springs, Angus Racing Roller Rockers, Weiand Stealth Intake, Holley 4150 650cfm carb, MAC 1 5/8 Long Tubes, Single Chamber Flowmasters, 91' T5 w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, Turbo Coupe 8.8 Rear w/ 3.55 gears, QA1 Motorsports tubular K member, no interior except steering wheel and seat.
Coming soon: 6 or 8 point cage, Fuel Cell, Weld Draglites
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