MustangWorks.com : Ford Forums - View Single Post

mustangman4 · 02-27-2004, 03:58 AM

I think I would put a timing light on #1 spark plug wire get it nice and warm and try to start it while holding the timing light trigger down. If it flashes then you know you have spark there and if it doesnt flash well then you have an ignition problem. If it doesnt flash then you will have to start looking at ignition components. One thing you do need to rule out before the TFI module is the hall effect sensor in the distributor. If you have an aftermarket tach and spliced into the coil wire that is the wire you need to check if has a ground all the time while cranking or it pulses. If it pulses then you know the hall effect sensor is good. The hall effect sensor is basically an magnetic switch that turns the coil on and off. Onto the TFI module. Electronic circuit boards over time do not like heat and vibration. IF you have adjusted timing to the point of which it is pointing at the thermostat housing this is bad for the TFI module because of the excessive heat and will shorten the lifespan because of it. TFI modules will do really interesting things while still working. There is really no way to test them that I am aware of. Buying a new one is not a bad idea because if it doesnt fix this problem you may end up needing it down the road sooner or later. After all that checks out good you need to start looking at fuel. Make sure you have at least 40lbs of fuel pressure when you first turn the key to the run position. One thing you can try is get the car warm and let it sit for awhile. Turn the key to the run position and back off 3, 4, or maybe 5 times before you start it. If it starts right away then you may have a fuel pressure regulator or fuel pump bleeding down to fast. Side note Aeromotive and Paxton fuel pressure regulators bleed down right away after you shut the car off. This is due to there design internally and is normal operation due to the fact that they do not have a check valve like a stock one does the ports are too large to have one and they feel its actually a restriction being there. Hope this helps. Keep us updated.

Brad

02-27-2004, 03:58 AM	#5
mustangman4 Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Oshkosh WI Posts: 69	I think I would put a timing light on #1 spark plug wire get it nice and warm and try to start it while holding the timing light trigger down. If it flashes then you know you have spark there and if it doesnt flash well then you have an ignition problem. If it doesnt flash then you will have to start looking at ignition components. One thing you do need to rule out before the TFI module is the hall effect sensor in the distributor. If you have an aftermarket tach and spliced into the coil wire that is the wire you need to check if has a ground all the time while cranking or it pulses. If it pulses then you know the hall effect sensor is good. The hall effect sensor is basically an magnetic switch that turns the coil on and off. Onto the TFI module. Electronic circuit boards over time do not like heat and vibration. IF you have adjusted timing to the point of which it is pointing at the thermostat housing this is bad for the TFI module because of the excessive heat and will shorten the lifespan because of it. TFI modules will do really interesting things while still working. There is really no way to test them that I am aware of. Buying a new one is not a bad idea because if it doesnt fix this problem you may end up needing it down the road sooner or later. After all that checks out good you need to start looking at fuel. Make sure you have at least 40lbs of fuel pressure when you first turn the key to the run position. One thing you can try is get the car warm and let it sit for awhile. Turn the key to the run position and back off 3, 4, or maybe 5 times before you start it. If it starts right away then you may have a fuel pressure regulator or fuel pump bleeding down to fast. Side note Aeromotive and Paxton fuel pressure regulators bleed down right away after you shut the car off. This is due to there design internally and is normal operation due to the fact that they do not have a check valve like a stock one does the ports are too large to have one and they feel its actually a restriction being there. Hope this helps. Keep us updated. Brad __________________ 93 GT 306 DSS, O-Ringed, AFR 185's, Pro Products Intakes, 55lb low imp inj, 80mm Pro-M meter, 2004 PMS, AFM Power Pipe, Kirban Reg, Vortech S-Trim 14lbs. No times yet. Trying to tune.