Tried to advance timing today..........

LOCASH · 02-16-2001, 08:50 PM

Here is what I did...The book said to put the third clamp on the timing light on the #1 wire. I did and nothing happened. I put it on the coil wire and it worked fine. I put marks on the 8, 10, 12 and 14 degree marks and disconnected the spout connector. The spout connector as I understood is near where the wires that go to the distributer are. I loosened it up turned clockwise to the 14* mark, tightened it, re-installed spout and turned the car off. Did I screw something up because it dosen't feel any different. Should I have used the #1 wire or does it even make a difference? I am always amazed at how it sounds so easy when I read how to do this stuff.

------------------
86 GT T-tops, AOD, B&M shift kit and hammer shifter, ROH wheels, K&N, Timing,MAC headers, 2.5 off road H, 2.5 American Thunder, 87 spindles, rear disc,SS lines, BBK 1.5, poly bushings, Steeda G-trac and subs, Strut bar.
"DRIVE LIKE YOU STOLE IT!"

withamc · 02-16-2001, 10:09 PM

Yes - you have to use the #1 wire, otherwise you're reading every spark to every cylinder and not just #1, which should be the only one firing at that point.

Mach 1 · 02-17-2001, 12:19 AM

you put the timing light on the coil wire? Oh boy. I think u should take it to a mechanic for some help.

------------------
1993 GT/AOD
'93 Mustang GT

chris91LX · 02-17-2001, 01:24 AM

Yeah, you might want to get some knowledgeable help with this. The positive and negative clamps go on the battery as a power source for the light and the other clamp goes on the #1 spark plug wire, cylinder closest to you on the left (passenger side) looking at the engine. The timing light will flash in sequence with the firing of the #1 spark plug. When you point the timing light toward the harmonic balancer, looking down to the center, bottom of the engine from the front passenger side of the front of the engine bay illuminating the timing marks on the harmonic balancer. There is a fixed pointer that shows where the timing is set at that moment, by turning the distributor you can advance or retard the setting. If you don't have the timing light hooked up right, ie on the coil wire rather than on plug wire #1 your not going to know what you are setting the timing at and you could do some real damage to your engine.

------------------
91 LX 5.0
Z t-5, 3:73 gear, Vortech 73mm Mass Air, Accufab 65mm TB, BBK underdrives, Crane HI-6S Ignition, BBK unequal length headers, Bassani x pipe, 2.5" Dynomax Super Turbo cat back, Kenny Brown Super Subs, Factory Five Control Arms, Mac cold air kit and more to come!

LOCASH · 02-17-2001, 07:15 AM

I could not get the timing light to blink on the #1 so I figured I was doing something wrong. I have FMS 9mm wires. Is it possible that my cheeseball timing light roachclip just cant read the spark. It barely blinked on the coil. Time for a new light? MACH 1, I read your post and laughed my @ss off. Thanks guys.

------------------
86 GT T-tops, AOD, B&M shift kit and hammer shifter, ROH wheels, K&N, Timing,MAC headers, 2.5 off road H, 2.5 American Thunder, 87 spindles, rear disc,SS lines, BBK 1.5, poly bushings, Steeda G-trac and subs, Strut bar.
"DRIVE LIKE YOU STOLE IT!"

[This message has been edited by LOCASH (edited 02-17-2001).]

chris91LX · 02-17-2001, 12:19 PM

Getting a new one might be a good idea. I was told not to be cheap about a timing light. There are a few good ones out there for $50-$75. They should have no problem with the 9mm wires.

------------------
91 LX 5.0
Z t-5, 3:73 gear, Vortech 73mm Mass Air, Accufab 65mm TB, BBK underdrives, Crane HI-6S Ignition, BBK unequal length headers, Bassani x pipe, 2.5" Dynomax Super Turbo cat back, Kenny Brown Super Subs, Factory Five Control Arms, Mac cold air kit and more to come!

92Rustang · 02-17-2001, 11:31 PM

If I'm reading this right the light you have is an old school light. I also have this kind of light. The roachclip needs to have a thin long spring on it.You have to pull the #1 spark plug wire off and connect the spring to the plug and the plug wire to the other end of the spring. The clip, clips onto the spring. I hope this makes sense.My friends still make fun of my light but it works fine.
I just tell them it is a classic 69 HO timing light.

------------------
Check site for mods.
http://www.fordmustanggt.com

Phil Ossifer · 02-18-2001, 07:32 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by LOCASH:
Is it possible that my cheeseball timing light roachclip just cant read the spark?

LOCASH,

Have you tried cleaning some of the resin off your roachclip?

C'Mon, this is the 21st century, break down and get new timing light....

Phil

John · 02-18-2001, 08:36 AM

Phil your killing me HAHAHAHA

------------------
89 Notch: ASP Pullies, K&N Air,Transgo shiftkit,Trany cooler,FMS 3 core Radiator, FMS 4:10's, 1.5" cowl

LOCASH · 02-18-2001, 09:44 AM

AAH, come on, gimme a break, man. It was free!

It was the only option besides ordering one via mail and waiting 2-3 weeks. Italians don't work on thier own cars so there is no place to buy decent tools here. You should see some of the crap the mechanics here use. If you have any suggestions on which kind to buy and what kind of features I should look for please let me know. I tried the sears website but I can't see what kind of clamp they use to put on the #1 wire. Everything I want to do to my car I have to learn myself and do by myself. Taking a Ford Mustang to an Italian mechanic is like asking the guy at Jiffy lube to rebuild an automatic trannsmission in a Jaguar

and, no, I am not exaggerating.

------------------
86 GT T-tops, AOD, B&M shift kit and hammer shifter, ROH wheels, K&N, Timing,MAC headers, 2.5 off road H, 2.5 American Thunder, 87 spindles, rear disc,SS lines, BBK 1.5, poly bushings, Steeda G-trac and subs, Strut bar.
"DRIVE LIKE YOU STOLE IT!"

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02-16-2001, 08:50 PM	#1
LOCASH Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: Santa Lucia di Budoia, Italy Posts: 217	Tried to advance timing today.......... Here is what I did...The book said to put the third clamp on the timing light on the #1 wire. I did and nothing happened. I put it on the coil wire and it worked fine. I put marks on the 8, 10, 12 and 14 degree marks and disconnected the spout connector. The spout connector as I understood is near where the wires that go to the distributer are. I loosened it up turned clockwise to the 14* mark, tightened it, re-installed spout and turned the car off. Did I screw something up because it dosen't feel any different. Should I have used the #1 wire or does it even make a difference? I am always amazed at how it sounds so easy when I read how to do this stuff. ------------------ 86 GT T-tops, AOD, B&M shift kit and hammer shifter, ROH wheels, K&N, Timing,MAC headers, 2.5 off road H, 2.5 American Thunder, 87 spindles, rear disc,SS lines, BBK 1.5, poly bushings, Steeda G-trac and subs, Strut bar. "DRIVE LIKE YOU STOLE IT!"

02-16-2001, 10:09 PM	#2
withamc Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: Thousand Oaks, CA Posts: 396	Yes - you have to use the #1 wire, otherwise you're reading every spark to every cylinder and not just #1, which should be the only one firing at that point.

02-17-2001, 12:19 AM	#3
Mach 1 Registered Member Join Date: May 1999 Location: Georgia Posts: 3,866	you put the timing light on the coil wire? Oh boy. I think u should take it to a mechanic for some help. ------------------ 1993 GT/AOD '93 Mustang GT

02-17-2001, 01:24 AM	#4
chris91LX Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1998 Location: Suburban Chicago, Hanover Park Posts: 695	Yeah, you might want to get some knowledgeable help with this. The positive and negative clamps go on the battery as a power source for the light and the other clamp goes on the #1 spark plug wire, cylinder closest to you on the left (passenger side) looking at the engine. The timing light will flash in sequence with the firing of the #1 spark plug. When you point the timing light toward the harmonic balancer, looking down to the center, bottom of the engine from the front passenger side of the front of the engine bay illuminating the timing marks on the harmonic balancer. There is a fixed pointer that shows where the timing is set at that moment, by turning the distributor you can advance or retard the setting. If you don't have the timing light hooked up right, ie on the coil wire rather than on plug wire #1 your not going to know what you are setting the timing at and you could do some real damage to your engine. ------------------ 91 LX 5.0 Z t-5, 3:73 gear, Vortech 73mm Mass Air, Accufab 65mm TB, BBK underdrives, Crane HI-6S Ignition, BBK unequal length headers, Bassani x pipe, 2.5" Dynomax Super Turbo cat back, Kenny Brown Super Subs, Factory Five Control Arms, Mac cold air kit and more to come!

02-17-2001, 07:15 AM	#5
LOCASH Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: Santa Lucia di Budoia, Italy Posts: 217	I could not get the timing light to blink on the #1 so I figured I was doing something wrong. I have FMS 9mm wires. Is it possible that my cheeseball timing light roachclip just cant read the spark. It barely blinked on the coil. Time for a new light? MACH 1, I read your post and laughed my @ss off. Thanks guys. ------------------ 86 GT T-tops, AOD, B&M shift kit and hammer shifter, ROH wheels, K&N, Timing,MAC headers, 2.5 off road H, 2.5 American Thunder, 87 spindles, rear disc,SS lines, BBK 1.5, poly bushings, Steeda G-trac and subs, Strut bar. "DRIVE LIKE YOU STOLE IT!" [This message has been edited by LOCASH (edited 02-17-2001).]

02-17-2001, 12:19 PM	#6
chris91LX Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1998 Location: Suburban Chicago, Hanover Park Posts: 695	Getting a new one might be a good idea. I was told not to be cheap about a timing light. There are a few good ones out there for $50-$75. They should have no problem with the 9mm wires. ------------------ 91 LX 5.0 Z t-5, 3:73 gear, Vortech 73mm Mass Air, Accufab 65mm TB, BBK underdrives, Crane HI-6S Ignition, BBK unequal length headers, Bassani x pipe, 2.5" Dynomax Super Turbo cat back, Kenny Brown Super Subs, Factory Five Control Arms, Mac cold air kit and more to come!

02-17-2001, 11:31 PM	#7
92Rustang Registered Member Join Date: Feb 1999 Location: Smithton, IL, US Posts: 215	If I'm reading this right the light you have is an old school light. I also have this kind of light. The roachclip needs to have a thin long spring on it.You have to pull the #1 spark plug wire off and connect the spring to the plug and the plug wire to the other end of the spring. The clip, clips onto the spring. I hope this makes sense.My friends still make fun of my light but it works fine. I just tell them it is a classic 69 HO timing light. ------------------ Check site for mods. http://www.fordmustanggt.com

02-18-2001, 08:36 AM	#9
John Registered Member Join Date: Dec 1998 Location: Ft.Myers, FL. Posts: 150	Phil your killing me HAHAHAHA ------------------ 89 Notch: ASP Pullies, K&N Air,Transgo shiftkit,Trany cooler,FMS 3 core Radiator, FMS 4:10's, 1.5" cowl

02-18-2001, 09:44 AM	#10
LOCASH Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: Santa Lucia di Budoia, Italy Posts: 217	AAH, come on, gimme a break, man. It was free! It was the only option besides ordering one via mail and waiting 2-3 weeks. Italians don't work on thier own cars so there is no place to buy decent tools here. You should see some of the crap the mechanics here use. If you have any suggestions on which kind to buy and what kind of features I should look for please let me know. I tried the sears website but I can't see what kind of clamp they use to put on the #1 wire. Everything I want to do to my car I have to learn myself and do by myself. Taking a Ford Mustang to an Italian mechanic is like asking the guy at Jiffy lube to rebuild an automatic trannsmission in a Jaguar and, no, I am not exaggerating. ------------------ 86 GT T-tops, AOD, B&M shift kit and hammer shifter, ROH wheels, K&N, Timing,MAC headers, 2.5 off road H, 2.5 American Thunder, 87 spindles, rear disc,SS lines, BBK 1.5, poly bushings, Steeda G-trac and subs, Strut bar. "DRIVE LIKE YOU STOLE IT!"