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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Dec 1998
Location: Richmond, Virginia
Posts: 449
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![]() what is the easiest way to get the block clean for new head gaskets.
I was just planning on degreasing well and using a surface reconditioning disk (with rags in cylinders) - and vacuuming a lot? Is there any easier/better way?
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1982 Mustang GT |
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#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 334
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![]() that works well, but the absolute best degreaser... oven cleaner!!! its like having a hot tank in a can!!! it will take off everything, gaskets, grease, and paint... so if you don't want to take off the paint on the block then be careful with it... plus it washes off with plain tap water... hope this little tip helps...
Steve |
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#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Dec 1998
Location: Richmond, Virginia
Posts: 449
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![]() Yeah, I thought of that - but, the short block is still together and I didn't wanna be throwin' around too much water.
I didn't mention - this is just a head swap, so the block is still in the car thanks, Matt
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1982 Mustang GT |
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 334
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![]() ahhh well then that does change everything then doesn't it... you might wanna just go with what you were planning on... use the surface disk and vac it...
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#5 |
The Photoshop Guru
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Mecca, Indiana
Posts: 1,419
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![]() Go to Auto Zone and buy a can of gasket remover. Spray it on the deck trying not to let too much get into the cylinders. Let it soak in for a few minutes and get a razor blade scraper and carefully scrape the block pulling the chunks away from the cylinders. That's the way I did mine. It's a pain in the arse, but it's the safest way I could come up with to keep the block free of debree.
Using any kind of scotchbrite pad or a similar item may do more harm than good. I tried that on mine and when I was rotating the crank around to get the next piston up for cleaning I noticed a few of the fragments from the pad had gotten between the piston and the cylinder wall. It's a pain leaning over that fender and trying to scrape gaskets off the block isn't it?
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Project: 1988 Coupe - EFI 5.8L Twin Turbo with Victor intake, Canfield heads, F303 cam, March aluminum underdrive pulleys, TKO (or T56 if funds permit), PBR twin piston calipers and 13" rotors up front, 94 Cobra rear calipers and 12" rotors on the rear, 3.73's, Griggs K-member, tubular front control arms, torque arm and panhard bar, polished 99 Cobra wheels. "The GR-40 kit installation is now complete, and the humble Fox-chassis car will now out-corner and out-stop a ZR-1 or a Viper, and support massive horsepower additions with perfect balance." Griggs Racing ICQ# 42269241 |
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#6 |
347ci of HORSE POWER!!!
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 1,416
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![]() I like to use some misc products.... go to the kitchen or buy one if you don't want to mess one up and get one of those long, flexiable cake knives. Make sure that it is metal (usually stainless steel). You can use that to scrap off the gasket. It is strong (cuz of the steel) and very flexiable so it won't damage anyting. Also, get a can of Carb Cleaner. It will clean off dirty parts that you didn't even know that were dirty or could be cleaned. You can also use a old rag and some gasoline. Gas and Carb cleaner are the best stuff invented. I use this stuff all the time. It is true that Carb cleaner leaves a small oily residue, if you don't like that...you can use good old break cleaner also. It is almost the same stuff with out the oil stuff. Hope this helps ya out.
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#7 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Dec 1998
Location: Richmond, Virginia
Posts: 449
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![]() I was working on one side last night - I can get the gasket remnants off pretty good with just a razor blade - then I can degrease it - but it is still fairly dirty.
I think that I am gonna try using the disc and the vacuum at the same time - try to wire tie the hose to my drill... yeah, it is a pain - I am 6'4", so my back is killing me.
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1982 Mustang GT |
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