BATTLE BOXES....when needed, and what brand?

Spenc2u · 12-17-2001, 11:13 AM

I mean it's only a couple chunks of steel... can't you just rip out the back seats and weld in some square chunks on top of the torque boxes?

pics if ya gottem

Coupe Devil · 12-17-2001, 11:33 AM

Not real sure if you wanna do that or not. It may be suffecient but they dont make the kits for nothin ya know. I like the Wild Rides supports. They arent reall boxes so the y save you a little money but they do stiffen the chassis around the torque boxes. You proabably want more material (metal) around where the control arm mounts not just on top anyway.
Just a thought.
Brad

84LX89GT · 12-17-2001, 07:57 PM

Some ways you can strengthen it for little to no money is to weld all the seams that mount the torque box to the frame at the very least. I'm not sure when it's "necessary" to re-enforce the torque boxes, but it's a good idea.

Five0 · 12-17-2001, 11:08 PM

I think rick91gt makes them and sells them for a good price. At least I think it was him.

I would run them if you have southside lift bars or control arms; I hear they are hard on the boxes.

I would get them if you run on slicks or if you notice any tears along the torque boxes.

It is a good idea to get them before the point of them tearing but that is when I decided to get mine.

byrnech · 12-18-2001, 01:34 AM

I believe it was Rick91gt as well, they are like the wild rides but better material and cheaper. I am going to buy a set when I get back to the good old U.S. He sells them for 100.00 if i'm not mistaken. Also wolf racing sells a kit for 25.00 that would complement it too. It goes on the bottom, under the lower control arm. I screwed mine up bad with southsides and slicks, the nitrous didn't help much either. But hopefully this helps. It's better to have it and not to need it. I am going to have to pay a chassis shop to straighten mine out, then weld them up then add the kit.

My car tries to go side ways down the highway at about 65mph on a downshift. I don't recommend it.

That was before the new motor.

Rick 91GT · 12-18-2001, 06:32 AM

Hey guys thanks for remembering me

Spenc2u

- I replied on one of your other threads to this subject but if anyone is interest I have 4 sets that are almost ready to go Rick91GT@onemain.com

Fully welding the boxes helps but I still ripped them apart now after I re-welded and installed the kit no issues what so ever, I really think my roll bar helps as well, takes all the flex out of the chassis. I run the SSM lowers as Five0 mentioned they tend to be hard on the boxes. The kit is twice as thick as the floor pan and facrory box material. They call it a "box" because it boxes the rear arm in, all the kit consisit of a top plate and a L-shaped plate that are made to fit up inside the one side, re-enforcing the factory metal.

I also made my own bottom plates similar to the Wolfes to keep them from spreading, very easy to do but these MUST BE WELDED IN, where the kit can be COMPLETLY BOLTED IN.

James- Hows the car running?

Five0 · 12-18-2001, 08:25 AM

Pretty good, thanks for asking.

I stepped the jets down and it seems to be running a lot stronger but I have not hade time to get it back out to the track.

I still need to replace the cam with a bigger one, the one I have now is holding me back considerably.

I posted some pictures in the Blue Oval Lounge; check them out.

12-17-2001, 11:13 AM	#1
Spenc2u Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Ontario Posts: 24	BATTLE BOXES....when needed, and what brand? I mean it's only a couple chunks of steel... can't you just rip out the back seats and weld in some square chunks on top of the torque boxes? pics if ya gottem __________________ http://www.netsnapshot.com/pickalbum?Spenc2u

12-17-2001, 11:33 AM	#2
Coupe Devil Moderator Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Myrtle Beach SC Posts: 1,643	Not real sure if you wanna do that or not. It may be suffecient but they dont make the kits for nothin ya know. I like the Wild Rides supports. They arent reall boxes so the y save you a little money but they do stiffen the chassis around the torque boxes. You proabably want more material (metal) around where the control arm mounts not just on top anyway. Just a thought. Brad __________________ 1990 GT, 347, TFS TW Heads, TFS Cam, TFS Track heat, Twin turbos, FMIC, T5. Built Ford Tough Moderator

12-17-2001, 07:57 PM	#3
84LX89GT Mustangs Join Date: Jul 2000 Posts: 1,938	Some ways you can strengthen it for little to no money is to weld all the seams that mount the torque box to the frame at the very least. I'm not sure when it's "necessary" to re-enforce the torque boxes, but it's a good idea. __________________ 2005 Suzuki Hayabusa GSX1300-R 1980 Ford Thunderbird - 255 V8 ported heads, 5.0L ported stock headers, O.R. H-pipe and Flowmaster 2-chambers, dual roller timing chain hi-po Mack Truck hood emblem 1985 Mustang GT 5.0L T5, F-303, GT40p, headers, off-road h, flowmasters, MSD stuff, etc. Sold 02/06/04 1989 Mustang GT ET: 13.304@102.29 mph (5-24-03) Sold - 1998 Mustang Cobra coupe, 1/4 mile - street tires: 13.843@103.41 (bone stock)

12-17-2001, 11:08 PM	#4
Five0 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: middleburg, fl, usa Posts: 1,134	I think rick91gt makes them and sells them for a good price. At least I think it was him. I would run them if you have southside lift bars or control arms; I hear they are hard on the boxes. I would get them if you run on slicks or if you notice any tears along the torque boxes. It is a good idea to get them before the point of them tearing but that is when I decided to get mine. __________________ James Cox RHC Member #44 nochevy@hotmail.com 1991 Mustang LX Dart iron eagle block, 4340 28oz 347 crank, 4340 h-beam rods, probe ultra light pistons canfield heads “race ported by Brent Frazier”, solid roller cam and lifters “custom grind”, kooks 1 7/8" race headers, and much more. Engine built by Brent Frazier.

12-18-2001, 01:34 AM	#5
byrnech Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Anderson, TX. Posts: 166	I believe it was Rick91gt as well, they are like the wild rides but better material and cheaper. I am going to buy a set when I get back to the good old U.S. He sells them for 100.00 if i'm not mistaken. Also wolf racing sells a kit for 25.00 that would complement it too. It goes on the bottom, under the lower control arm. I screwed mine up bad with southsides and slicks, the nitrous didn't help much either. But hopefully this helps. It's better to have it and not to need it. I am going to have to pay a chassis shop to straighten mine out, then weld them up then add the kit. My car tries to go side ways down the highway at about 65mph on a downshift. I don't recommend it. That was before the new motor. __________________ 331 10:1, AFR 185's, TFS-R intake

12-18-2001, 06:32 AM	#6
Rick 91GT Procharged! Join Date: May 1999 Location: Hanover, PA Posts: 1,539	Hey guys thanks for remembering me Spenc2u - I replied on one of your other threads to this subject but if anyone is interest I have 4 sets that are almost ready to go Rick91GT@onemain.com Fully welding the boxes helps but I still ripped them apart now after I re-welded and installed the kit no issues what so ever, I really think my roll bar helps as well, takes all the flex out of the chassis. I run the SSM lowers as Five0 mentioned they tend to be hard on the boxes. The kit is twice as thick as the floor pan and facrory box material. They call it a "box" because it boxes the rear arm in, all the kit consisit of a top plate and a L-shaped plate that are made to fit up inside the one side, re-enforcing the factory metal. I also made my own bottom plates similar to the Wolfes to keep them from spreading, very easy to do but these MUST BE WELDED IN, where the kit can be COMPLETLY BOLTED IN. James- Hows the car running? __________________ *D/R 10108 NMRA Drag Radial, 25.5 chassis, F1R* *Check out RNH Performance Performance Engines and Custom Fabrication.* *From Mild to Wild we can build what you want, when you want it.* FOR SALE Stainless Steel Torque Box Supports

12-18-2001, 08:25 AM	#7
Five0 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: middleburg, fl, usa Posts: 1,134	Pretty good, thanks for asking. I stepped the jets down and it seems to be running a lot stronger but I have not hade time to get it back out to the track. I still need to replace the cam with a bigger one, the one I have now is holding me back considerably. I posted some pictures in the Blue Oval Lounge; check them out. __________________ James Cox RHC Member #44 nochevy@hotmail.com 1991 Mustang LX Dart iron eagle block, 4340 28oz 347 crank, 4340 h-beam rods, probe ultra light pistons canfield heads “race ported by Brent Frazier”, solid roller cam and lifters “custom grind”, kooks 1 7/8" race headers, and much more. Engine built by Brent Frazier. Last edited by Five0; 12-18-2001 at 08:39 AM..