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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Florida
Posts: 532
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![]() I have a 90gt 5spd and latley when Ive been gettin on it and goin into 2nd gear ive heard some nasty grinding but only in 2nd, and sometimes if I do a burn out in 1st it will throw it out but that only happend once anyways is a tranny rebuild next for me, ive changed the fluid and that didnt seem to help a whole bunch, also if I have to get it rebuilt I got a estimate for $450 is that a fair price. And one last thing if I do get it rebuilt i'm gonna do it when I get a clutch so what clutch do yall recomend, I was lookin at the FMS or the king cobra's.
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90gt 347 and some bolt ons :-) RICE HATERS MEMBER #73 |
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#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Staging lane
Posts: 4,337
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![]() That price seems fair to me. I would go with the FMS clutch that is the one I have and I like it. I had the King cobra before and I didnt like it as much.
Later,
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92' LX-Big brakes, Lots and lots of suspension, GT40X heads, Ported cobra intake, stock cam, Vortech SC trim. 00' Lightning-Stock 88'CRX-13 second ego killer |
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#3 |
2 Stangs in the Stable
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Baytown, TX
Posts: 1,209
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![]() I hate to be the one with the bad news, but my t-5 did the same thing right before it went. The guy at the shop told me that I broke the mainshaft in half and I ended up getting a rebuilt one put in. I don't know if it was coincidence or not. My tranny still throws out of first sometimes, so if anyone could shed some light on this subject, please do. The tranny in my F-150 did the same thing and it was only a shift fork. Cost me about $115.
As far as clutches, I hear the centerforce dual friction is a good one. I still have a factory one so I personally have no basis for comparison. Good luck with the tranny. Caymon
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'90 GT Under construction Best E.T. = Fast @ High Speeds - OK So I Lie. So What!!! ![]() ![]() 04 F-150 STX 4.2L 5 spd Rice Haters Club Member #128 |
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: Columbia Co, PA
Posts: 303
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![]() Once the teeth on the slider assembly get too worn, it'll start kicking it out of gear. You'll be able to hold it in for a while until the teeth are completely gone. Then you'll be able to hold the shifter in the appropriate position but since there's no teeth to engage, it'll just sound like it's gonna fly apart & continue to wear the slider smooth. It could be a bent shift fork, but the T5 forks are so hard that they'll usually snap before bending.
The grinding into second is probably the inner rings on your synchro wearing away. The synchro normally rides a certain distance from the gear and the inner rings maintain that spacing. Once they go away, the synchro ends up jamming against the gear and they fail to perform their duty. Call Bob Hanlon and ask for some troubleshooting help from them. www.hanlonmotorsports.com If you have another vehicle, you might try replacing the slider and synchros yourself. TTC has an awesome service manual you can download for free. www.ttcautomotive.com . Since my stang isn't my daily driver anymore, I've been practicing power shifting my 3550 on a regular basis. Consequently, I've been replacing 2nd & 3rd synchros regularly also. I've just started keeping the extra pieces on hand. The more expensive stuff I can pickup from Hanlon as needed. A good aftermarket shifter with positive shifter stops will help your synchros last longer after the rebuild. I've got a Pro 5.0 and I wouldn't have any others. As for a clutch. I would not recommend the King Cobra either. That's what I've got and I hate it. My next clutch will be a Super Connector '49' series from Hays with a Hays lightweight pressure plate. Not normally sold as a kit. It's right around $400 for the pair + TOB. Good luck dude. |
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