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#1 |
Mustang Enthusiast
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 528
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![]() I was trying to time my car last night and ran into some problems. I'll start from the beginning. I got my engine rebuilt a few months ago and have been running into problems ever since. I think I had put the distributer in 1 tooth off when I set it in. The TFI module was pointing in the 1:00 direction and was too far advanced. When I tried to turn the distributer counter clockwise to retard the timing, it would hit the fuel lines/ injectors. I pulled the distributer to turn it one tooth over (the TFI Module would have been pointing in the 5:00 direction), and now I can't get it to set in there all the way down. I have turned the crank with a socket and breaker bar to see if the teeth moved, but I still can't get it to set down there. I looked down the shaft to see if there was something obstructing the distributer from going all the way down into the shaft, but there wasn't anything. I desperately need help! I was planning on going on a local cruise that's being organized for this Saturday, but with this problem I won't be able to drive my stang there
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#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Staging lane
Posts: 4,337
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![]() I had the same problem when I rebuilt my engine. My distributor didnt want to fall into place
![]() Maybe not the best method but tit worked for me. Later,
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92' LX-Big brakes, Lots and lots of suspension, GT40X heads, Ported cobra intake, stock cam, Vortech SC trim. 00' Lightning-Stock 88'CRX-13 second ego killer |
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#3 |
or '331 LX Eric'
Join Date: Jan 1999
Location: Columbus, Ohio
Posts: 2,142
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![]() The distributor may need a little assistance - but not much. When I was setting up the distributor on my new 331, it went in rather easily. At first, we were one tooth one way and then one tooth too far the other until we finally got. It's all just a little trial and error until you get it right. Again though, it shouldn't need too much coaxing to slip in- you just have to be patient until you feel the teeth mesh in and the rotor lines up on No. 1.
E
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1991 5.0 LX Coupe - 40,750 miles 331 cu. in. / Tremec 3550 / BFG Drag Radials 12.22 @ 114.31 mph - w/1.89 60' |
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#4 |
Mustang Enthusiast
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 528
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![]() I don't want to break anything so I will only do that as a LAST RESORT. I know once I start pounding on parts, I'm going to break them. I would think that it would just drop down easily, but I guess not. Thanks for the advice, Keith.
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#5 |
gear banger
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: CHICAGO
Posts: 1,144
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![]() Just mess with it it will go in. The gears have to mesh and the pump shaft has to slide in the distributer shaft. Also ther is no such thing as the distributer being one tooth off. What the timing light says is what it is at.
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79 Hatch: NA 347, Stage 2 Canfield Heads, Victor JR. Intake, Blueprinted Holley 750 HP, Solid Roller Cam, Shooting for 10's on motor 93 LX: Tremec, dual friction clutch, fms flywheel, Hedman shorties, O/R H-pipe Ricer hater's club member #49 |
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#6 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Fall River, MA
Posts: 467
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![]() the question that comes to my head is, is it at top dead center on the intake stroke? that's what you need to do is turn the crank until it is, then try to insert the distributor. Maybe by chance when you put it in a tooth off, and took it out to fix it, maybe you went the wrong way?
when you figure that out then to get in the general area of the timing... here's a pic of the position of the distributor in my car @ 10° copy and paste: www.angelfire.com/ma4/fromentlogic/ images/distributor.html
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'02 Explorer XLT 4.0L --Nice Vehicle '97 Saturn SL1--Soon to be ditched for a Ford! Last edited by lx5091; 09-12-2002 at 01:08 PM.. |
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#7 |
Mustang Enthusiast
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 528
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![]() when I tried to rotate the distributer to retard the timing I would run into the fuel lines/ injectors. I thought if I set the distributer one tooth over, I would have the full range of rotation to set the timing to 10* When I set the distributer in the first time I turned the distributer as far to the right (counter clockwise) as I could and the timing was still off. Thanks again for your guys advice, Keith.
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#8 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2001
Location: westerville, OH USA
Posts: 618
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![]() It's got to be at top dead center on the combustion stroke on cylinder 1. Get the distributer whee you want it, then make sure the slot on the bottom of the distributor will line up with the oil pump shaft. If not, turn the oil pump shaft with a flat head until it's lined up.
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1990 Notchback: BBK Ceramic Coated Full length headers, Dr. Gas 3"- 2 1/2" x-pipe, Flowmaster 40's/turndowns. |
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#9 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: pace.fl
Posts: 5
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![]() To make it easy for you take spark plug out of number one cylinder. line the 0 degree mark on your balancer turning by hand with timing indicator. If engine is at top dead center the piston will be at the top of number one cylinder. Take a light or screwdriver to check. The piston must be at top to set distributor in. If piston is not their, turn balancer 180 degrees until you reach 0 degree again with timing indicator. Start setting your distributor in with the rotor button facing the 12:00 clock position. As you drop in distributor start turning rotor button counter clockwise to the left (about 11:00) until you feel the distributor gear start to catch then set in. You have to find the right tooth and might take a couple times. When you do, the rotor button will be just to the left of 12:00 clock not straight up at 12.
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#10 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2001
Location: calgary alberta canada
Posts: 366
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![]() Quote:
Fords use a hex driveshaft, 1/4 inch drive will turn it, just tape up everthing (socket to exention) before you stick it down there. Trust me....
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93LXcopcarSOLD14.3@96 @ 4500ft 2.02 60ft on street tires. my 67 ranchero NOT A 390 ANY MORE! 460! 3.70's cast manifolds, comp cams 262H, performer, 750DP 100K out of 79 F250 NEW(oct20/02)14.58@95mph 2.3 60 ft corrects to:13.86@100 66 merc comet351w, isky roller 600 lift 268/260@.050, vic jr. 700DP, 5000stall, 4.56's c-4, 3400lbs with driver 12.3@110 @ 4000ft 1.69 60 ft corrects to:11.69@115 |
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#11 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Ventura, California
Posts: 8,981
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![]() Email me when you read this.
Take care, ~Chris
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Webmaster: Rice Haters Club Jim Porter Racing Peckerwoods Pit Stop Support Your Local
RED & WHITE! |
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#12 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 247
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![]() What is happening is that the oil pump drive is either leaning against the side wall of the distributor opening or the internal hex is not aligning with the pump shaft.
NO WORRIES Simply seat the distributor as far as you can, and applying light pressure on the top cap have someone bump the starter. As the engine rotates the cam engagement will turn the distributor shaft until it picks up the oil pump shaft and the distributor will seat. NEVER pound down on the thing. Just bump the engine. Hope this helps. Jim
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1966 Customized for daily street and highway domination. 358 Windsor running 425 HP C-4 Auto and 3.25 Posi |
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#13 |
Mustang Enthusiast
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 528
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![]() My modem on my home PC is broken so I haven't hade much time to get online lately. I havn't figured it out, but hopefully with everyone's help so far, I'll be able to fix this problem tomorrow. I just went to the track today to get encouragement
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#14 |
Mustang Enthusiast
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 528
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![]() The shaft that sits in the oil pump was hung up on the oil pump and wasn't seating all the way. I moved the shaft with a screwdriver and it fell off the lip of the oil pump and into my oil pan. I was able to fish it out and set it back in the oil pump properly. After that the distributer set in perfectly. Now I just need to insure this thing again
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Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Desperately need help | cad614 | Windsor Power | 5 | 04-26-2003 09:47 PM |