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Old 11-20-2003, 07:25 PM   #1
BaLListic
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Default 347 stroker oil burner/Non Oil Burner...

whats this business about the two 347 stroker kits one listed as an oil burner and one listed as a non oil burner. I understand the fact the rod lenght is a bit different as well as different piston. But has anyone actually had this trouble of a 347 stroker burning oil because the oil ring intersects the wristpin??? should a build the long rod 347 Vs. the short rod tall piston 347?
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Old 11-20-2003, 09:39 PM   #2
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Yes the 347 used to be an oil burner stroker motor due to ring sealing problems. But all, or at least most, new stroker kits have all solved this problem.

If you're that worried about the oil burning, you could always go a different route and use a 331 stroker kit. No problems with rings there.
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Old 11-21-2003, 04:19 PM   #3
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im not to terribly worried about it i just dont want it to turn into one of these cars that burn as much oil as they do gas lol.... when i think of somthing burning oil i think of burning alot of oil. I just talked to a guy and he told me he had a 347 stroker and it would use about a quart of oil between oil changes and i can deal with that.......
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Old 11-21-2003, 04:40 PM   #4
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i have a coast 347 and no oil burning. I would not use any other 347
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Old 11-21-2003, 06:45 PM   #5
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which of their kits did you get the kit with the 5.315in rods? or the kit with the 5.400in rods?
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Old 11-22-2003, 03:52 AM   #6
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I don't even burn a quart of oil between oil changes. Just a tiny bit from the rear main seal. But I have the long rod 347. I don't know if other pistons have them but my trick flow pistons have a very hard ring that goes around in the oil ring groove and acts as an oil scraper against the bore, preventing oil from going past it. It seems to work well. I've got maybe 9000 miles on it so far.
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Old 11-23-2003, 04:50 PM   #7
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Default stroker

I have the short rod kit, and doesnt burn oil, that kit rocks!!!!
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Old 11-24-2003, 09:58 AM   #8
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short rod kit. I love it.
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Old 11-24-2003, 12:26 PM   #9
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Bla, bla, bla. This is nothing but internet rumors and b/s. A 347, 331, or a 306 are all the same when it comes to a reliable motor. It is the machine work and assembally that will make or brake ANY motor. The end.
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Old 11-28-2003, 12:51 AM   #10
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thank u wads56... couldnt have said it better myself
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Old 11-28-2003, 05:47 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally posted by WADS56
Bla, bla, bla. This is nothing but internet rumors and b/s. A 347, 331, or a 306 are all the same when it comes to a reliable motor. It is the machine work and assembally that will make or brake ANY motor. The end.
I thought it was early kits the hole for the connecting rod (dont know the official name) would have to intersect with the bottom ring?
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Old 11-30-2003, 12:39 AM   #12
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and where did u hear these rumors?
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Old 11-30-2003, 08:09 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally posted by MidNiteBlu 5.0
I thought it was early kits the hole for the connecting rod (dont know the official name) would have to intersect with the bottom ring?

Yep, that is true... some did, some didn't, and some still do. Mine has the wrist pin in the oil ring area and it dosn't make a difference. There is a part called the "oil control ring" that the oil scraper sits on that will stop oil burning. One more thing... For the people with 331's that built it them selves, some of them will be able to tell you that the oil ring is in the rist pin area with no problems also. Yep thats right some 331's have the oil ring in the rist pin area just like 347's. How can theis be?
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