Survey again, Alum flywheel

88workcar · 07-28-2002, 12:47 PM

The motor went in this morning. I inspected all cluth parts. They will last a little while. When I need to change it, I will either resurface the flywheel or go with a aluminum one. The questions at hand are this.
Have any of you ever made the swap?
Is there a peformance gain?
How much did you see?
Does it last?
Thanks, Jason, the happiest man on the post, 2 1/2 years of waiting.

302 LX Eric · 07-29-2002, 03:26 PM

Quote:

Have any of you ever made the swap?

Yes. I did on my old 302 when I installed a Tremec 3550 (over 90 lbs), King Cobra clutch, Steel blow-proof bellhousing (~30-35lbs) and Fidanza Aluminum flywheel (11 lbs.)

Quote:

Is there a peformance gain?

I would assume that there is, however I have no hard #'s (track or dyno) to prove it. Since I added extra weight by installing everything else, I still went 13.3 - 13.4 @104-105 - with the stock shifter on my new Tremec (used to have the Hurst). Those times are consistent with my average times and 60's. So I guess going to a crappy shifter and adding some serious weight I was making more power to run near the same times.

Quote:

Does it last?

It should. It has a steel insert disc where the contact with the clutch is made. If you wear out the steel surface, you can get a new one (it screws into the aluminum). Pretty slick set-up and works great so far without any problems.

I would recommend getting one as it reduces rotating mass which makes for quicker acceleration and more HP.

Don't worry about the theory that says you lose a ton of torque - it just isn't true. Maybe a little but it isn't that noticible.

Good luck with your decision and feel free to email or PM me if you have more detailed questions.

Take care,
E

chris91LX · 07-29-2002, 04:50 PM

Yeah, I've heard all the stories about losing toque and you need the centrifugal force of a steel flywheel too, but I know that alot of other guys swear up and down the aluminums are much better, less drag on the rotating assembly. This is a dilemma for me too as I plan on getting a new flywheel pretty soon too.

88workcar · 07-29-2002, 09:13 PM

Thanks guys, hope we get more response.

andy669 · 07-29-2002, 10:02 PM

I had the honor of participating in a steel vs. aluminum flywheel test just last week. The test was sponsored by Clutch Masters and Fidanza flywheels. The one and only David Vizard was there to do the article for MM&FF. I would imagine the article is probably 5-6 months away from press.

The test consisted of chassis dynoing and track testing both steel and aluminum flywheels in a NMRA Factory Stock, Real Street, and Pure Street car.

We dynoed all 3 last Wednesday morning with the steel flywheels, then went to the track for testing. After making several passes to get 3 good baselines, we swapped out the steels for aluminums.

The Pure Street car was having trans problems and therefore was not able to continue. After swapping in the aluminums, several passes were made to get at least 3 good baselines on them. Thursday morning the cars were returned to the chassis dyno to make pulls with the aluminums.

The preliminary results were this. The Real Streeter picked up an average of 20 rwhp on the dyno. The Factory Stocker, just 5. Track results were a different story. Since NMRA Factory Stock is a Drag Radial class, the F/Ser picked up big time et! The heavy steel flywheel was hitting the tires too hard and blowing them off. I dont remember the exact et#'s the cars picked up because I did not choose which 3 runs were used for baselines. But i know the average was 2-3 tenths on the F/S, and 3-4 tenths on the R/S.

The F/S car weighed in just over 3300, and the R/S car was just under the NMRA 3250 minimum (with ET streets) at 3160. Although these results were obtained with dedicated race cars, they can be translated directly to street cars with silimiar combos.

Andy

302 LX Eric · 07-30-2002, 08:24 AM

andy669 - Thanks for the great information! I had heard from the guy I pruchased the flywheel from that some guys were claiming up to 25 RWHP gains, but I didn't post it since I had never seen it first hand - plus I didn't want to get the flame suit out.

Should be a great article. Again, thanks for posting about it.

I knew the aluminum flywheel was a good idea!

BTW, Fidanza flywheels are made right here in Ohio. Perry, Ohio, I believe.

Take it easy,
E

mysweetlx · 07-30-2002, 01:08 PM

I'm somewhat flywheel illiterate, and just know what I've been told. I've heard that aluminum f/w's are better for roadcourse racing and the billet steel is better for 1/4. Is this wrong info?

88workcar · 07-31-2002, 12:41 AM

Thank you Andy. This should help everyone. Thanks again....Jason

andy669 · 07-31-2002, 05:07 PM

I will let you guys know when the article comes out so you can read all the data for yourselves. It should be very interesting!

David Vizard is an absolute genious when it comes to anything concerning automobile racing and high performance. I cant hardly wait to read the article, myself! Hell, there might even be a picture of my ugly mug in there.. hehehe

Andy

ultraflo · 08-01-2002, 02:01 AM

I like what Andy pointed out about the steel wheels shocking the tires loose... I experienced this first hand w/ the previous setup I ran (Centerforce billet 10.5" wheel and D/F press. plate and disc w/ Tremec 3550, E/T streets)... I switched to a McLeod 11" aluminum wheel with a 10.5" SoftLok adj. press. plate and sintered iron disc along with a Jerico DR4 and love it!

The steel wheel is also said to be harder on the drivetrain vs. an aluminum wheel (and if you run an adj. press plate it's even less of a shock to the tires and everything in between) as I was told by Red @ McLeod (among all the other "stuff" I had to know to setup the clutch properly)

Aluminum flywheels are a good thing, if you make enough power or plan to in the future... I believe you get the most from one in a 400+Hp combo. But hey, a 5 horse gain isn't bad.

eatsgmcar · 08-01-2002, 11:45 AM

The flywheel worth 5 to 25 RWHP!?!?!
I just would like to know in which case
it worths 5 HP and in which case it worth
25 HP. I don t know the difference between
pure stock, true street bracket. I use to race
in the heavy categorie (10 sec to 13.5 sec)

magicmerll · 08-01-2002, 12:43 PM

Traditionally, aluminum flywheels are for racing, and steel wheels are for the street.

A steel wheel will allow the engine to maintain RPM between shifts, prolonging clutch life and making for smoother shifts.
An alloy wheel allows the RPM to fall rapidly between shifts, which can cause a 'jerk' each time the next gear is engaged.

This is a real common debate for dirt bike riders as they debate between low rpm torque, and high-rpm horsepower.

Hope this helps...

302 LX Eric · 08-01-2002, 03:54 PM

Quote:

A steel wheel will allow the engine to maintain RPM between shifts, prolonging clutch life and making for smoother shifts.
An alloy wheel allows the RPM to fall rapidly between shifts, which can cause a 'jerk' each time the next gear is engaged.

In racing applications this is really a moot point. Especially in drag racing where your shifts are very, very quick - therefore your drop in RPM is really non-existant.

Also, to be honest with you, I've really haven't noticed this 'jerk' that you're referring to - even when just cruising around on the streets. I'll pay more attention next time I get my Mustang out, but I really don't recall anything like that.

E

07-28-2002, 12:47 PM	#1
88workcar Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1999 Location: Pierre Part, La. U.S.A. Posts: 1,850	Survey again, Alum flywheel The motor went in this morning. I inspected all cluth parts. They will last a little while. When I need to change it, I will either resurface the flywheel or go with a aluminum one. The questions at hand are this. Have any of you ever made the swap? Is there a peformance gain? How much did you see? Does it last? Thanks, Jason, the happiest man on the post, 2 1/2 years of waiting. __________________ 88workcar 1988 Mustang LX 342. 417rwhp @ 6800. 28 X 10 ET Drag, 4.30s, 10.69 @ 126.43 1.42 60ft. 11.13 @ 127.7 on BFGs 1.72 60ft Rice Hater # 42 To be old and wise, You must first be young and stupid I'm somewhere in tthe middle.

07-29-2002, 04:50 PM	#3
chris91LX Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1998 Location: Suburban Chicago, Hanover Park Posts: 695	Yeah, I've heard all the stories about losing toque and you need the centrifugal force of a steel flywheel too, but I know that alot of other guys swear up and down the aluminums are much better, less drag on the rotating assembly. This is a dilemma for me too as I plan on getting a new flywheel pretty soon too. __________________ My Ford Club http://www.midwestfords.org/ Best time N/A 12.9 @ 107 1.711 60' 125 shot - 12.04 @ 113 1.59 60'

07-29-2002, 09:13 PM	#4
88workcar Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1999 Location: Pierre Part, La. U.S.A. Posts: 1,850	Thanks guys, hope we get more response. __________________ 88workcar 1988 Mustang LX 342. 417rwhp @ 6800. 28 X 10 ET Drag, 4.30s, 10.69 @ 126.43 1.42 60ft. 11.13 @ 127.7 on BFGs 1.72 60ft Rice Hater # 42 To be old and wise, You must first be young and stupid I'm somewhere in tthe middle.

07-29-2002, 10:02 PM	#5
andy669 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Moline Il Posts: 901	I had the honor of participating in a steel vs. aluminum flywheel test just last week. The test was sponsored by Clutch Masters and Fidanza flywheels. The one and only David Vizard was there to do the article for MM&FF. I would imagine the article is probably 5-6 months away from press. The test consisted of chassis dynoing and track testing both steel and aluminum flywheels in a NMRA Factory Stock, Real Street, and Pure Street car. We dynoed all 3 last Wednesday morning with the steel flywheels, then went to the track for testing. After making several passes to get 3 good baselines, we swapped out the steels for aluminums. The Pure Street car was having trans problems and therefore was not able to continue. After swapping in the aluminums, several passes were made to get at least 3 good baselines on them. Thursday morning the cars were returned to the chassis dyno to make pulls with the aluminums. The preliminary results were this. The Real Streeter picked up an average of 20 rwhp on the dyno. The Factory Stocker, just 5. Track results were a different story. Since NMRA Factory Stock is a Drag Radial class, the F/Ser picked up big time et! The heavy steel flywheel was hitting the tires too hard and blowing them off. I dont remember the exact et#'s the cars picked up because I did not choose which 3 runs were used for baselines. But i know the average was 2-3 tenths on the F/S, and 3-4 tenths on the R/S. The F/S car weighed in just over 3300, and the R/S car was just under the NMRA 3250 minimum (with ET streets) at 3160. Although these results were obtained with dedicated race cars, they can be translated directly to street cars with silimiar combos. Andy __________________ 88 coupe 91 LX NMRA Pure Street 5120

07-30-2002, 08:24 AM	#6
302 LX Eric or '331 LX Eric' Join Date: Jan 1999 Location: Columbus, Ohio Posts: 2,142	andy669 - Thanks for the great information! I had heard from the guy I pruchased the flywheel from that some guys were claiming up to 25 RWHP gains, but I didn't post it since I had never seen it first hand - plus I didn't want to get the flame suit out. Should be a great article. Again, thanks for posting about it. I knew the aluminum flywheel was a good idea! BTW, Fidanza flywheels are made right here in Ohio. Perry, Ohio, I believe. Take it easy, E __________________ 1991 5.0 LX Coupe - 40,750 miles 331 cu. in. / Tremec 3550 / BFG Drag Radials 12.22 @ 114.31 mph - w/1.89 60'

07-30-2002, 01:08 PM	#7
mysweetlx Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: New York Posts: 248	I'm somewhat flywheel illiterate, and just know what I've been told. I've heard that aluminum f/w's are better for roadcourse racing and the billet steel is better for 1/4. Is this wrong info? __________________ Damn this thing's fast!

07-31-2002, 12:41 AM	#8
88workcar Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1999 Location: Pierre Part, La. U.S.A. Posts: 1,850	Thank you Andy. This should help everyone. Thanks again....Jason __________________ 88workcar 1988 Mustang LX 342. 417rwhp @ 6800. 28 X 10 ET Drag, 4.30s, 10.69 @ 126.43 1.42 60ft. 11.13 @ 127.7 on BFGs 1.72 60ft Rice Hater # 42 To be old and wise, You must first be young and stupid I'm somewhere in tthe middle.

07-31-2002, 05:07 PM	#9
andy669 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Moline Il Posts: 901	I will let you guys know when the article comes out so you can read all the data for yourselves. It should be very interesting! David Vizard is an absolute genious when it comes to anything concerning automobile racing and high performance. I cant hardly wait to read the article, myself! Hell, there might even be a picture of my ugly mug in there.. hehehe Andy __________________ 88 coupe 91 LX NMRA Pure Street 5120

08-01-2002, 02:01 AM	#10
ultraflo NX dealer-man Join Date: Sep 1998 Location: Peoria, Illinois Posts: 977	I like what Andy pointed out about the steel wheels shocking the tires loose... I experienced this first hand w/ the previous setup I ran (Centerforce billet 10.5" wheel and D/F press. plate and disc w/ Tremec 3550, E/T streets)... I switched to a McLeod 11" aluminum wheel with a 10.5" SoftLok adj. press. plate and sintered iron disc along with a Jerico DR4 and love it! The steel wheel is also said to be harder on the drivetrain vs. an aluminum wheel (and if you run an adj. press plate it's even less of a shock to the tires and everything in between) as I was told by Red @ McLeod (among all the other "stuff" I had to know to setup the clutch properly) Aluminum flywheels are a good thing, if you make enough power or plan to in the future... I believe you get the most from one in a 400+Hp combo. But hey, a 5 horse gain isn't bad. __________________ RLS Racing! 93 LX 9.20 @ 147mph 03 Mach 1 12.39 @ 116mph

08-01-2002, 11:45 AM	#11
eatsgmcar Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Pont Rouge, Quebec, Canada Posts: 45	The flywheel worth 5 to 25 RWHP!?!?! I just would like to know in which case it worths 5 HP and in which case it worth 25 HP. I don t know the difference between pure stock, true street bracket. I use to race in the heavy categorie (10 sec to 13.5 sec)

08-01-2002, 12:43 PM	#12
magicmerll Registered Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: St. Louis, MO Posts: 19	Traditionally, aluminum flywheels are for racing, and steel wheels are for the street. A steel wheel will allow the engine to maintain RPM between shifts, prolonging clutch life and making for smoother shifts. An alloy wheel allows the RPM to fall rapidly between shifts, which can cause a 'jerk' each time the next gear is engaged. This is a real common debate for dirt bike riders as they debate between low rpm torque, and high-rpm horsepower. Hope this helps... __________________ Ever notice the people that know the best way to raise kids are the people that don't have any?

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