Heat Problems Continue

Smokedawg · 05-01-2001, 05:33 PM

I have tried numerous things..Well here is my prob. I cant keep my car cool in stop and go situations. I now have a 3core radiator with perma-cool fan. thermostat gutted..enginkool in radiator. went through the car wash and pulled out and looked down and she was at about 260!!!! usually in stop and go heavy traffic it stays in the middle of the normal..i think thats like 210 or something. Do you think that a electric fan infront of the radiator where that big rectangular ac thing used to be there would help?? how else can i cool this damn thing down??? Thanks for any advice.

------------------
347 Stroker Motor: Balanced, A9P Computer, Cobra Transmission, Extrude Ported and Polished Upper and ported Lower, GT40 Milled Ported and Polished Heads, B303 Cam, BBK 1 5/8 Headers, 30lb Bosch Injectors, Holley Fuel Regulator, March Underdrive Pulleys, Perma-Cool Fan, 3-Core Radiator, Accel Performance Coil, Accel 300+ Racing Wires, Ram Air, K&N Filter, 79mm Mass Air Unit, FlowMaster Exhaust w/BBK Offroad H-Pipe, Hurst Short Throw Shifter, 3:55 Gears, Ram Clutch, Cross Drilled Rotors

dinomite · 05-01-2001, 07:37 PM

These little things won't fix the big problem, as you have somthing major wrong with the engine. I didn't follow your last post on this topic very closely, so you may have heard these before:

Have you checked your pump foor good operation? Have you tried a new one? Is it installed the right way?

Have you taken your heads off lately? Did you use the right gaskets?

What is the mix do you have as coolant? Should be 50/50 coolant/water with some water wetter stuff.

My guess is that you have an obstruction somewhere in the circuit. You obviously have a new radiator, and probably new hoses too, maybe a passage within the engine or heads? Isn't the heater core in line with the cooling? that could be blocked.

Smokedawg · 05-02-2001, 11:34 AM

I am running a brand new water pump with all new hoses with radiator. I run 50/50 mix water, antifreeze. This motor just got put back together not to long ago (approx. 3 months) by a pro machine shop man. All right gaskets where used. My temp just flucuates. With the gutted thermo-driving down the highway at say 55 the damn thing runs 130-140..Mostly stop and go it stays close to 210...but as soon as i stop for a few minutes at idle..it just keeps shooting up..i know boring cut the waterjackets closer..and all bored motors run a hotter than normal..

------------------
347 Stroker Motor: Balanced, A9P Computer, Cobra Transmission, Extrude Ported and Polished Upper and ported Lower, GT40 Milled Ported and Polished Heads, B303 Cam, BBK 1 5/8 Headers, 30lb Bosch Injectors, Holley Fuel Regulator, March Underdrive Pulleys, Perma-Cool Fan, 3-Core Radiator, Accel Performance Coil, Accel 300+ Racing Wires, Ram Air, K&N Filter, 79mm Mass Air Unit, FlowMaster Exhaust w/BBK Offroad H-Pipe, Hurst Short Throw Shifter, 3:55 Gears, Ram Clutch, Cross Drilled Rotors

A Wild Neg · 05-02-2001, 01:39 PM

SmokeDawg:

I have the same problem. My car is completely stripped out and redone only for racing. It is street legal, and can't be driven to far. If i'm moving non stop it stays about 190-200 but when I start going and stopping, it just shoots up. On warm days it can get 220 - 240 no problem. Thats when I get leaks and hoses force open

I talked to a guy about it about 2 weeks ago, he suggest getting this dual raditor system that a company offers. I can get you the name of it. He suggested two fans, and to check the thermastat and waterpump. He said defintly check the timing as well. All is good, but when I did check the water flow of the raditor (He said pop the cap off and watch it while the car is running.). There is barely any flow at all. I talked to him, he said there should be a good flow going and you will SEE it flowing. If you can't really tell its moving, then something is up. Either something is jammed in somewhere blocking passages, or the waterpump isn't working properly. He also said check the thermastat. I changed the thermastat recently, so maybe I put it in backwords, but I don't think so. I'm going to be taking it out and getting a 'restrictor'. It's a cicrular device that goes in replace of it. Prevents a open hole, and keeps water in the radiotr a little longer to cool off. Just check the flow see if thats the main problem or not. I was told with a 3 chamber alum raditor and electric fan, it should stay pretty cool still. Will run hotter then a normal block, but still not run no 220-240. Let me know what you find! I'll let you know how the restrictors work!

- Kevin (A Wild Neg)
- AIM: A Wild Neg

Smokedawg · 05-02-2001, 06:26 PM

Ok..

I am goin to mount an electric fan infront of the radiator where the ac coils used to be blowing in hoping to help..

------------------
347 Stroker Motor: Balanced, A9P Computer, Cobra Transmission, Extrude Ported and Polished Upper and ported Lower, GT40 Milled Ported and Polished Heads, B303 Cam, BBK 1 5/8 Headers, 30lb Bosch Injectors, Holley Fuel Regulator, March Underdrive Pulleys, Perma-Cool Fan, 3-Core Radiator, Accel Performance Coil, Accel 300+ Racing Wires, Ram Air, K&N Filter, 79mm Mass Air Unit, FlowMaster Exhaust w/BBK Offroad H-Pipe, Hurst Short Throw Shifter, 3:55 Gears, Ram Clutch, Cross Drilled Rotors

joe4speed · 05-02-2001, 10:48 PM

Mine had just done that and it was a bad clutch on the fan... the bearings were competely wasted. I went to discount auto parts and bolted on a flex fan with no clutch and that was the end of that story!! I hope it's as easy as that for you!! good luck!

------------------
Joe!
1988 GT, 167,000 miles!!! 13.71@105mph Check out my listing! Click here! Or my website:
www.joe4speed.com
1999 Ninja ZX-6R 10.32@135mph!
1993 Olds Eighty Eight LSS

Smokedawg · 05-03-2001, 07:38 PM

Im already runnin a non-clutch fan...i was just drivin around town this evening and it sayed around 220-230...

------------------
347 Stroker Motor: Balanced, A9P Computer, Cobra Transmission, Extrude Ported and Polished Upper and ported Lower, GT40 Milled Ported and Polished Heads, B303 Cam, BBK 1 5/8 Headers, 30lb Bosch Injectors, Holley Fuel Regulator, March Underdrive Pulleys, Perma-Cool Fan, 3-Core Radiator, Accel Performance Coil, Accel 300+ Racing Wires, Ram Air, K&N Filter, 79mm Mass Air Unit, FlowMaster Exhaust w/BBK Offroad H-Pipe, Hurst Short Throw Shifter, 3:55 Gears, Ram Clutch, Cross Drilled Rotors

Fostang · 05-03-2001, 07:58 PM

Are you sure you have the fan wired correctly. If the fan is put in front of the radiator it needs to be wired black wire to power and red wire to ground but if it is place behind the radiator it goes red to power and black to ground. Oh yeah and please don't use just the sensor on that you got with the elecric fan. Always have a manual overide. When I had my fan wired just to the sensor boy did it get hot or what. It's a good idea to have both types because sometimes you forget to turn it on manually.

------------------
67'fastback-Edelbrock carb,intake,cam,valve springs.Rhode lifters, CompCam rocker arms, windage tray,cerama coated headers,dual flows with H-pipe, modded c-4,tci stall converter,perma cool electric fan,aluminum water pump,griffen aluminum radiator,accel 8.8 cable,wide cap distriburator,magnetic pick up,v-matic hurst shifter,edelbrock performer nitrous, carter electric fuel pump,ignitor coil,solid motor mounts,magna racing suspension,poly urathane bushings,under rider traction bars, comp. eng. s

dinomite · 05-03-2001, 08:02 PM

Get an oil cooler with fan, that would probably lower your temp some

les1 · 05-03-2001, 11:44 PM

well i'll bet you a beer that i know whats wrong, You MUST have properly working themostat or the hot water in your engine will rush right back in with no obstructions and time to cool down that is why this happens at idle, when your moving there is so much fresh air going through radiator it cools to much, a cold engine below 180 actually will wear out faster believe it or not. your fan could never compete with the volume of 60mph.

gray87GT · 05-03-2001, 11:56 PM

They also make restrictors that fit inside your radiator hose, to keep the water in the radiator longer. Thats what alot of the dirt track guys use around here. It seems to drop the temp about 20*. I doubt it but, did you get the right rotation water pump? Ford has normal and reverse rotation pumps right?

[This message has been edited by gray87GT (edited 05-04-2001).]

Smokedawg · 05-04-2001, 06:24 AM

The electric fan I havent hooked it up yet I have just ordered it. And I bought a fan thats reversable on the brackets so it can be a pusher or a puller type fan so i just hook it up correctly. I am goin to hook it into a switch so i can control when it comes on and off. I have tried runnin a 160 thermo and the same problem still occurs..I HAVE THE CORRECT WATERPUMP...although I am thinkin bout switching to a electric wp..

------------------
347 Stroker Motor: Balanced, A9P Computer, Cobra Transmission, Extrude Ported and Polished Upper and ported Lower, GT40 Milled Ported and Polished Heads, B303 Cam, BBK 1 5/8 Headers, 30lb Bosch Injectors, Holley Fuel Regulator, March Underdrive Pulleys, Perma-Cool Fan, 3-Core Radiator, Accel Performance Coil, Accel 300+ Racing Wires, Ram Air, K&N Filter, 79mm Mass Air Unit, FlowMaster Exhaust w/BBK Offroad H-Pipe, Hurst Short Throw Shifter, 3:55 Gears, Ram Clutch, Cross Drilled Rotors

Matt Harwood · 05-04-2001, 08:33 AM

You didn't say what type of gauge you are using. If you're relying on the stock gauge to determine temperatures, that's probably your problem. Guessing at temperatures by noting where the needle is is not accurate by any means. I'd guess that your sending unit for the stock gauge is bad and is making the gauge read high. Get a quality mechanical gauge and find out the temperature for certain.

If it's not overheating (and at 260, it should be steaming), then you may not have a problem.

Also, put the thermostat back in. It isn't a restriction, and only sets the lowest temperature at which the coolant will flow. It also serves to slow the coolant down enough to adequately cool in the radiator. Without it, the coolant is circulating too fast to reject all the heat. The thermostat is one of the most misunderstood devices--it can only help unless you put it in backwards or it sticks.

Hope this helps.
--
Matt Harwood
Cleveland, OH

------------------
1993 LX coupe: built 342, GT-40X heads, ported Cobra intake, JBA headers, 3.55s, etc., etc., etc.

1997 Ranger Splash Supercab: 1995 Cobra 5.0L, 8 PSI Kenne-Bell supercharger, Tremec 3550. 319 HP @ the rear wheels. Stock wheels, not lowered. The ultimate sleeper?

See it all at http://www.harwoodperformance.bizland.com

[This message has been edited by Matt Harwood (edited 05-04-2001).]

Bill Duke · 05-04-2001, 11:38 AM

I had a permal cool fan before, the one that is suppose to flow 2950 CFMs and after a week of installing it, I removed it. The car was running hotter. I don't think that fan pulls enough air through. I am againg running my flex-a-lite fan. But it sounds like you may have somthing else wrong.

------------------
Bill Duke

My Coupe
My Mods
12.68@107.6 N/A

Smokedawg · 05-04-2001, 11:47 AM

I know that running no thermostat is not good. But i am still using the round restriction piece so its not all flowing rapidly..I know it gets hot because the antifreeze in the overflow gets boiling and spits out the tube...i think my guages are right..I might try a different fan also..

------------------
347 Stroker Motor: Balanced, A9P Computer, Cobra Transmission, Extrude Ported and Polished Upper and ported Lower, GT40 Milled Ported and Polished Heads, B303 Cam, BBK 1 5/8 Headers, 30lb Bosch Injectors, Holley Fuel Regulator, March Underdrive Pulleys, Perma-Cool Fan, 3-Core Radiator, Accel Performance Coil, Accel 300+ Racing Wires, Ram Air, K&N Filter, 79mm Mass Air Unit, FlowMaster Exhaust w/BBK Offroad H-Pipe, Hurst Short Throw Shifter, 3:55 Gears, Ram Clutch, Cross Drilled Rotors

Fostang · 05-04-2001, 03:47 PM

Like I said before I have a perma cool fan and the sensor sucks the only reason everyone here has complained about the perma cool fan and it running hot is because of the sensor. Hook the fan directly and leave it on go drive around then tell me if it got hot. If it did then there is something else wrong inside the engine. But I'm betting that by having the fan on and not waiting to be activated by the sensor the car will indeed run way cooler.

------------------
67'fastback-Edelbrock carb,intake,cam,valve springs.Rhode lifters, CompCam rocker arms, windage tray,cerama coated headers,dual flows with H-pipe, modded c-4,tci stall converter,perma cool electric fan,aluminum water pump,griffen aluminum radiator,accel 8.8 cable,wide cap distriburator,magnetic pick up,v-matic hurst shifter,edelbrock performer nitrous, carter electric fuel pump,ignitor coil,solid motor mounts,magna racing suspension,poly urathane bushings,under rider traction bars, comp. eng. s

Smokedawg · 05-05-2001, 09:55 AM

Ok, I dont know what you are talking bout but i am not running a electric fan. My perma-cool is the replacement for the stock clutch fan. But the perma-cool isnt a clutch fan, spins all the time with the motor. The electric fan will go infront of the radiator.

------------------
347 Stroker Motor: Balanced, A9P Computer, Cobra Transmission, Extrude Ported and Polished Upper and ported Lower, GT40 Milled Ported and Polished Heads, B303 Cam, BBK 1 5/8 Headers, 30lb Bosch Injectors, Holley Fuel Regulator, March Underdrive Pulleys, Perma-Cool Fan, 3-Core Radiator, Accel Performance Coil, Accel 300+ Racing Wires, Ram Air, K&N Filter, 79mm Mass Air Unit, FlowMaster Exhaust w/BBK Offroad H-Pipe, Hurst Short Throw Shifter, 3:55 Gears, Ram Clutch, Cross Drilled Rotors

05-01-2001, 05:33 PM	#1
Smokedawg Tires Fear Me... Join Date: Jan 2001 Posts: 867	Heat Problems Continue I have tried numerous things..Well here is my prob. I cant keep my car cool in stop and go situations. I now have a 3core radiator with perma-cool fan. thermostat gutted..enginkool in radiator. went through the car wash and pulled out and looked down and she was at about 260!!!! usually in stop and go heavy traffic it stays in the middle of the normal..i think thats like 210 or something. Do you think that a electric fan infront of the radiator where that big rectangular ac thing used to be there would help?? how else can i cool this damn thing down??? Thanks for any advice. ------------------ 347 Stroker Motor: Balanced, A9P Computer, Cobra Transmission, Extrude Ported and Polished Upper and ported Lower, GT40 Milled Ported and Polished Heads, B303 Cam, BBK 1 5/8 Headers, 30lb Bosch Injectors, Holley Fuel Regulator, March Underdrive Pulleys, Perma-Cool Fan, 3-Core Radiator, Accel Performance Coil, Accel 300+ Racing Wires, Ram Air, K&N Filter, 79mm Mass Air Unit, FlowMaster Exhaust w/BBK Offroad H-Pipe, Hurst Short Throw Shifter, 3:55 Gears, Ram Clutch, Cross Drilled Rotors

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05-01-2001, 07:37 PM	#2
dinomite The Dude Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Arlington, VA Posts: 1,262	These little things won't fix the big problem, as you have somthing major wrong with the engine. I didn't follow your last post on this topic very closely, so you may have heard these before: Have you checked your pump foor good operation? Have you tried a new one? Is it installed the right way? Have you taken your heads off lately? Did you use the right gaskets? What is the mix do you have as coolant? Should be 50/50 coolant/water with some water wetter stuff. My guess is that you have an obstruction somewhere in the circuit. You obviously have a new radiator, and probably new hoses too, maybe a passage within the engine or heads? Isn't the heater core in line with the cooling? that could be blocked.

05-02-2001, 11:34 AM	#3
Smokedawg Tires Fear Me... Join Date: Jan 2001 Posts: 867	I am running a brand new water pump with all new hoses with radiator. I run 50/50 mix water, antifreeze. This motor just got put back together not to long ago (approx. 3 months) by a pro machine shop man. All right gaskets where used. My temp just flucuates. With the gutted thermo-driving down the highway at say 55 the damn thing runs 130-140..Mostly stop and go it stays close to 210...but as soon as i stop for a few minutes at idle..it just keeps shooting up..i know boring cut the waterjackets closer..and all bored motors run a hotter than normal.. ------------------ 347 Stroker Motor: Balanced, A9P Computer, Cobra Transmission, Extrude Ported and Polished Upper and ported Lower, GT40 Milled Ported and Polished Heads, B303 Cam, BBK 1 5/8 Headers, 30lb Bosch Injectors, Holley Fuel Regulator, March Underdrive Pulleys, Perma-Cool Fan, 3-Core Radiator, Accel Performance Coil, Accel 300+ Racing Wires, Ram Air, K&N Filter, 79mm Mass Air Unit, FlowMaster Exhaust w/BBK Offroad H-Pipe, Hurst Short Throw Shifter, 3:55 Gears, Ram Clutch, Cross Drilled Rotors

05-02-2001, 01:39 PM	#4
A Wild Neg Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Bloomington, IL Posts: 26	SmokeDawg: I have the same problem. My car is completely stripped out and redone only for racing. It is street legal, and can't be driven to far. If i'm moving non stop it stays about 190-200 but when I start going and stopping, it just shoots up. On warm days it can get 220 - 240 no problem. Thats when I get leaks and hoses force open I talked to a guy about it about 2 weeks ago, he suggest getting this dual raditor system that a company offers. I can get you the name of it. He suggested two fans, and to check the thermastat and waterpump. He said defintly check the timing as well. All is good, but when I did check the water flow of the raditor (He said pop the cap off and watch it while the car is running.). There is barely any flow at all. I talked to him, he said there should be a good flow going and you will SEE it flowing. If you can't really tell its moving, then something is up. Either something is jammed in somewhere blocking passages, or the waterpump isn't working properly. He also said check the thermastat. I changed the thermastat recently, so maybe I put it in backwords, but I don't think so. I'm going to be taking it out and getting a 'restrictor'. It's a cicrular device that goes in replace of it. Prevents a open hole, and keeps water in the radiotr a little longer to cool off. Just check the flow see if thats the main problem or not. I was told with a 3 chamber alum raditor and electric fan, it should stay pretty cool still. Will run hotter then a normal block, but still not run no 220-240. Let me know what you find! I'll let you know how the restrictors work! - Kevin (A Wild Neg) - AIM: A Wild Neg

05-02-2001, 06:26 PM	#5
Smokedawg Tires Fear Me... Join Date: Jan 2001 Posts: 867	Ok.. I am goin to mount an electric fan infront of the radiator where the ac coils used to be blowing in hoping to help.. ------------------ 347 Stroker Motor: Balanced, A9P Computer, Cobra Transmission, Extrude Ported and Polished Upper and ported Lower, GT40 Milled Ported and Polished Heads, B303 Cam, BBK 1 5/8 Headers, 30lb Bosch Injectors, Holley Fuel Regulator, March Underdrive Pulleys, Perma-Cool Fan, 3-Core Radiator, Accel Performance Coil, Accel 300+ Racing Wires, Ram Air, K&N Filter, 79mm Mass Air Unit, FlowMaster Exhaust w/BBK Offroad H-Pipe, Hurst Short Throw Shifter, 3:55 Gears, Ram Clutch, Cross Drilled Rotors

05-02-2001, 10:48 PM	#6
joe4speed He said Member...heh, heh Join Date: Sep 1999 Location: Jupiter, Florida U.S.A. Posts: 3,718	Mine had just done that and it was a bad clutch on the fan... the bearings were competely wasted. I went to discount auto parts and bolted on a flex fan with no clutch and that was the end of that story!! I hope it's as easy as that for you!! good luck! ------------------ Joe! 1988 GT, 167,000 miles!!! 13.71@105mph Check out my listing! Click here! Or my website: www.joe4speed.com 1999 Ninja ZX-6R 10.32@135mph! 1993 Olds Eighty Eight LSS

05-03-2001, 07:38 PM	#7
Smokedawg Tires Fear Me... Join Date: Jan 2001 Posts: 867	Im already runnin a non-clutch fan...i was just drivin around town this evening and it sayed around 220-230... ------------------ 347 Stroker Motor: Balanced, A9P Computer, Cobra Transmission, Extrude Ported and Polished Upper and ported Lower, GT40 Milled Ported and Polished Heads, B303 Cam, BBK 1 5/8 Headers, 30lb Bosch Injectors, Holley Fuel Regulator, March Underdrive Pulleys, Perma-Cool Fan, 3-Core Radiator, Accel Performance Coil, Accel 300+ Racing Wires, Ram Air, K&N Filter, 79mm Mass Air Unit, FlowMaster Exhaust w/BBK Offroad H-Pipe, Hurst Short Throw Shifter, 3:55 Gears, Ram Clutch, Cross Drilled Rotors

05-03-2001, 07:58 PM	#8
Fostang Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Stockton, Ca Posts: 599	Are you sure you have the fan wired correctly. If the fan is put in front of the radiator it needs to be wired black wire to power and red wire to ground but if it is place behind the radiator it goes red to power and black to ground. Oh yeah and please don't use just the sensor on that you got with the elecric fan. Always have a manual overide. When I had my fan wired just to the sensor boy did it get hot or what. It's a good idea to have both types because sometimes you forget to turn it on manually. ------------------ 67'fastback-Edelbrock carb,intake,cam,valve springs.Rhode lifters, CompCam rocker arms, windage tray,cerama coated headers,dual flows with H-pipe, modded c-4,tci stall converter,perma cool electric fan,aluminum water pump,griffen aluminum radiator,accel 8.8 cable,wide cap distriburator,magnetic pick up,v-matic hurst shifter,edelbrock performer nitrous, carter electric fuel pump,ignitor coil,solid motor mounts,magna racing suspension,poly urathane bushings,under rider traction bars, comp. eng. s

05-03-2001, 08:02 PM	#9
dinomite The Dude Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Arlington, VA Posts: 1,262	Get an oil cooler with fan, that would probably lower your temp some

05-03-2001, 11:44 PM	#10
les1 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: seattle Posts: 76	well i'll bet you a beer that i know whats wrong, You MUST have properly working themostat or the hot water in your engine will rush right back in with no obstructions and time to cool down that is why this happens at idle, when your moving there is so much fresh air going through radiator it cools to much, a cold engine below 180 actually will wear out faster believe it or not. your fan could never compete with the volume of 60mph.

05-03-2001, 11:56 PM	#11
gray87GT Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Minnesota Posts: 177	They also make restrictors that fit inside your radiator hose, to keep the water in the radiator longer. Thats what alot of the dirt track guys use around here. It seems to drop the temp about 20*. I doubt it but, did you get the right rotation water pump? Ford has normal and reverse rotation pumps right? [This message has been edited by gray87GT (edited 05-04-2001).]

05-04-2001, 06:24 AM	#12
Smokedawg Tires Fear Me... Join Date: Jan 2001 Posts: 867	The electric fan I havent hooked it up yet I have just ordered it. And I bought a fan thats reversable on the brackets so it can be a pusher or a puller type fan so i just hook it up correctly. I am goin to hook it into a switch so i can control when it comes on and off. I have tried runnin a 160 thermo and the same problem still occurs..I HAVE THE CORRECT WATERPUMP...although I am thinkin bout switching to a electric wp.. ------------------ 347 Stroker Motor: Balanced, A9P Computer, Cobra Transmission, Extrude Ported and Polished Upper and ported Lower, GT40 Milled Ported and Polished Heads, B303 Cam, BBK 1 5/8 Headers, 30lb Bosch Injectors, Holley Fuel Regulator, March Underdrive Pulleys, Perma-Cool Fan, 3-Core Radiator, Accel Performance Coil, Accel 300+ Racing Wires, Ram Air, K&N Filter, 79mm Mass Air Unit, FlowMaster Exhaust w/BBK Offroad H-Pipe, Hurst Short Throw Shifter, 3:55 Gears, Ram Clutch, Cross Drilled Rotors

05-04-2001, 08:33 AM	#13
Matt Harwood Registered Member Join Date: May 2001 Location: Cleveland, OH USA Posts: 10	You didn't say what type of gauge you are using. If you're relying on the stock gauge to determine temperatures, that's probably your problem. Guessing at temperatures by noting where the needle is is not accurate by any means. I'd guess that your sending unit for the stock gauge is bad and is making the gauge read high. Get a quality mechanical gauge and find out the temperature for certain. If it's not overheating (and at 260, it should be steaming), then you may not have a problem. Also, put the thermostat back in. It isn't a restriction, and only sets the lowest temperature at which the coolant will flow. It also serves to slow the coolant down enough to adequately cool in the radiator. Without it, the coolant is circulating too fast to reject all the heat. The thermostat is one of the most misunderstood devices--it can only help unless you put it in backwards or it sticks. Hope this helps. -- Matt Harwood Cleveland, OH ------------------ 1993 LX coupe: built 342, GT-40X heads, ported Cobra intake, JBA headers, 3.55s, etc., etc., etc. 1997 Ranger Splash Supercab: 1995 Cobra 5.0L, 8 PSI Kenne-Bell supercharger, Tremec 3550. 319 HP @ the rear wheels. Stock wheels, not lowered. The ultimate sleeper? See it all at http://www.harwoodperformance.bizland.com [This message has been edited by Matt Harwood (edited 05-04-2001).]

05-04-2001, 11:38 AM	#14
Bill Duke Registered Member Join Date: Jan 1999 Location: Gaithersburg, Md 20878 Posts: 21	I had a permal cool fan before, the one that is suppose to flow 2950 CFMs and after a week of installing it, I removed it. The car was running hotter. I don't think that fan pulls enough air through. I am againg running my flex-a-lite fan. But it sounds like you may have somthing else wrong. ------------------ Bill Duke My Coupe My Mods 12.68@107.6 N/A

05-04-2001, 11:47 AM	#15
Smokedawg Tires Fear Me... Join Date: Jan 2001 Posts: 867	I know that running no thermostat is not good. But i am still using the round restriction piece so its not all flowing rapidly..I know it gets hot because the antifreeze in the overflow gets boiling and spits out the tube...i think my guages are right..I might try a different fan also.. ------------------ 347 Stroker Motor: Balanced, A9P Computer, Cobra Transmission, Extrude Ported and Polished Upper and ported Lower, GT40 Milled Ported and Polished Heads, B303 Cam, BBK 1 5/8 Headers, 30lb Bosch Injectors, Holley Fuel Regulator, March Underdrive Pulleys, Perma-Cool Fan, 3-Core Radiator, Accel Performance Coil, Accel 300+ Racing Wires, Ram Air, K&N Filter, 79mm Mass Air Unit, FlowMaster Exhaust w/BBK Offroad H-Pipe, Hurst Short Throw Shifter, 3:55 Gears, Ram Clutch, Cross Drilled Rotors

05-04-2001, 03:47 PM	#16
Fostang Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Stockton, Ca Posts: 599	Like I said before I have a perma cool fan and the sensor sucks the only reason everyone here has complained about the perma cool fan and it running hot is because of the sensor. Hook the fan directly and leave it on go drive around then tell me if it got hot. If it did then there is something else wrong inside the engine. But I'm betting that by having the fan on and not waiting to be activated by the sensor the car will indeed run way cooler. ------------------ 67'fastback-Edelbrock carb,intake,cam,valve springs.Rhode lifters, CompCam rocker arms, windage tray,cerama coated headers,dual flows with H-pipe, modded c-4,tci stall converter,perma cool electric fan,aluminum water pump,griffen aluminum radiator,accel 8.8 cable,wide cap distriburator,magnetic pick up,v-matic hurst shifter,edelbrock performer nitrous, carter electric fuel pump,ignitor coil,solid motor mounts,magna racing suspension,poly urathane bushings,under rider traction bars, comp. eng. s

05-05-2001, 09:55 AM	#17
Smokedawg Tires Fear Me... Join Date: Jan 2001 Posts: 867	Ok, I dont know what you are talking bout but i am not running a electric fan. My perma-cool is the replacement for the stock clutch fan. But the perma-cool isnt a clutch fan, spins all the time with the motor. The electric fan will go infront of the radiator. ------------------ 347 Stroker Motor: Balanced, A9P Computer, Cobra Transmission, Extrude Ported and Polished Upper and ported Lower, GT40 Milled Ported and Polished Heads, B303 Cam, BBK 1 5/8 Headers, 30lb Bosch Injectors, Holley Fuel Regulator, March Underdrive Pulleys, Perma-Cool Fan, 3-Core Radiator, Accel Performance Coil, Accel 300+ Racing Wires, Ram Air, K&N Filter, 79mm Mass Air Unit, FlowMaster Exhaust w/BBK Offroad H-Pipe, Hurst Short Throw Shifter, 3:55 Gears, Ram Clutch, Cross Drilled Rotors