changing valve cover gaskets

HP400RW · 01-17-2003, 06:36 PM

i need to change my valve cover gaskets and im new to the car industry, and i was wondering do you have to drain the oil to change the gaskets or can you just remove the valve covers and proceed. i know its a dumb question and i appologize but id rather be safe than sorry.

thanks for all the help
mark

AntwaanRandleEL · 01-17-2003, 06:47 PM

HP400RW- no question is stupid bro, were all learning. NO you do not have to drain the oil to replace the valve cover gaskets. You should be able to do it in about an hour and a half - 2 hours. Just have to remove the upper take and remove some hoses to get the the valve covers. Make sure you use a good gasket silicone like Permatex Blue Copper RTV Silicone. Make sure you clean the surfaces real well and then put everything back together. Good luck, let us know if you need more help.

mustangII460 · 01-17-2003, 11:29 PM

and Welcome to Mustang Works!

srv1 · 01-18-2003, 11:58 AM

IMPORTANT!!

If you are changing your valve covers and if they are the origianl ones on the car and no one ever changed them, then BEWARE!!

Ford used these little round steel spacers that are embedded in the original valve cover gaskets to prevent over tightening of the valve cover gasket. Well what happen is they come loose and the drop into your engine!!! Make sure you count all of them and take the covers off slowly!! I dont know how many their are, but i know there is alot of them.

Just thought i would tell you before you go any further!

James......

Bad89stang · 01-19-2003, 01:30 AM

I can't believe nobody covered this yet but, avoid using cork gaskets when you get new ones. Get the rubber ones with the steel frame inside or just the rubber Fel-Pro gaskets. The cork gaskets tend to "sweat" oil after awhile and it makes everything nasty. REMEMBER: DO NOT TIGHTEN THE BOLTS DOWN MUCH! It only take a little pressure to seal them and too much will make them leak. Good luck, it's easy!

Coupe50h · 01-19-2003, 03:39 AM

yea dont overtighten, i did, and had to do it over, not fun, i used cork felpro with the little metal inserts, i was just careful not to loose any of those metal things in the motor, they have been leak free ever since. good luck.

Cody2552 · 01-19-2003, 10:56 PM

well when i first got my stang, i changed the gaskets with some new cork ones. soon enough i learned always go with RUBBER w/ metal inside of it. i have had no leaks for a year now. i got mine from Summit Racing. and i finally got fed up with all the exhaust gaskets blowing so i bought some from Percy's also from Summit Racing. by the way the summit valve cover gaskets are $13.95 part number is SUM-G2321. i recommend both

Tim89LXvert · 01-20-2003, 12:56 PM

Another vote for the rubber/metal core ones.

A little pricer, but they are easier to install, no need for RTV, and they don't leak!! Even better they are reusable!!

It is a fairly easy job to do, but does give you some good quality wrench time with your car, and when it stops leaking, you engine looks MUCH better!!

Good luck!!

01-17-2003, 06:36 PM	#1
HP400RW Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: texas Posts: 46	changing valve cover gaskets i need to change my valve cover gaskets and im new to the car industry, and i was wondering do you have to drain the oil to change the gaskets or can you just remove the valve covers and proceed. i know its a dumb question and i appologize but id rather be safe than sorry. thanks for all the help mark

01-17-2003, 06:47 PM	#2
AntwaanRandleEL Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Naperville, IL, USA Posts: 76	HP400RW- no question is stupid bro, were all learning. NO you do not have to drain the oil to replace the valve cover gaskets. You should be able to do it in about an hour and a half - 2 hours. Just have to remove the upper take and remove some hoses to get the the valve covers. Make sure you use a good gasket silicone like Permatex Blue Copper RTV Silicone. Make sure you clean the surfaces real well and then put everything back together. Good luck, let us know if you need more help. __________________ There will always be someone faster then you.

01-17-2003, 11:29 PM	#3
mustangII460 Factoy Five Roadster Join Date: May 2000 Location: Sevier Co,Tennessee Posts: 1,681	and Welcome to Mustang Works! __________________ Frank

01-18-2003, 11:58 AM	#4
srv1 Get down..... Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Room 103 Posts: 2,095	IMPORTANT!! If you are changing your valve covers and if they are the origianl ones on the car and no one ever changed them, then BEWARE!! Ford used these little round steel spacers that are embedded in the original valve cover gaskets to prevent over tightening of the valve cover gasket. Well what happen is they come loose and the drop into your engine!!! Make sure you count all of them and take the covers off slowly!! I dont know how many their are, but i know there is alot of them. Just thought i would tell you before you go any further! James...... __________________ Cobra brakes are on! Finally..... ------------------------------------------------

01-19-2003, 01:30 AM	#5
Bad89stang Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Ft. Worth, TX Posts: 456	valve cover gaskets I can't believe nobody covered this yet but, avoid using cork gaskets when you get new ones. Get the rubber ones with the steel frame inside or just the rubber Fel-Pro gaskets. The cork gaskets tend to "sweat" oil after awhile and it makes everything nasty. REMEMBER: DO NOT TIGHTEN THE BOLTS DOWN MUCH! It only take a little pressure to seal them and too much will make them leak. Good luck, it's easy! __________________ You're gonna need your seatbelt

01-19-2003, 03:39 AM	#6
Coupe50h Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: SanAntonio, Tx Posts: 957	yea dont overtighten, i did, and had to do it over, not fun, i used cork felpro with the little metal inserts, i was just careful not to loose any of those metal things in the motor, they have been leak free ever since. good luck. __________________ X-Texas highway patrol ssp 1990 coupe - exploder Gt-40 iron heads, Explorer intake, 19 lber's. E-cam. crane 1.7 rollers. 190fp. 75mm maf. 65mm tb, tubular subframe connectors, mac cai, Asp crank pulley, T-5, king cobra clutch, flowtech 1-5/8 unequals, mac X-pipe Frpp driveshaft, lakewood Lca's. race weight 3,160 12.69 @ 107.35, 1.71 60' 26x8.5 drag's 3.90 gear 13.20 @ 106.91 - 235/60/15 firestones 2.3 60' 3.27 gear

01-19-2003, 10:56 PM	#7
Cody2552 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Posts: 68	well when i first got my stang, i changed the gaskets with some new cork ones. soon enough i learned always go with RUBBER w/ metal inside of it. i have had no leaks for a year now. i got mine from Summit Racing. and i finally got fed up with all the exhaust gaskets blowing so i bought some from Percy's also from Summit Racing. by the way the summit valve cover gaskets are $13.95 part number is SUM-G2321. i recommend both

01-20-2003, 12:56 PM	#8
Tim89LXvert Registered Member Join Date: Sep 1998 Location: Toledo, Ohio, USA Posts: 269	Another vote for the rubber/metal core ones. A little pricer, but they are easier to install, no need for RTV, and they don't leak!! Even better they are reusable!! It is a fairly easy job to do, but does give you some good quality wrench time with your car, and when it stops leaking, you engine looks MUCH better!! Good luck!! __________________ 1989 LX Convertible, blue with white top and leather, 5 speed. Engine: GT40 al. heads, Cobra intake, TFS cam, 1.7RR, etc.... LOLDrivetrain: SPEC II clutch & FMS Billet flywheel, Pro 5.0 shifter w/Cobra knob and aluminum driveshaft through 3.73:1 gears.Chassis: 4 wheel disk w/Cobra front brakes, GT rears and 2001 "Bullitt" wheels Rear: MM adjustable LCAs with Griggs springs, KYB shocks. Front: Koni red struts, FMS "C" springs and full poly bushings. Full length MM sub frame connectors, steeda 2pt. K-brace.Misc.: 130a alt. upgrade, R134a conversion. Photos of my car

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