Need to go with a 130 amp alt.

chris91LX · 10-01-2002, 08:53 AM

I'm going with an sn95 fan and I'm going to need to go with a 130 amp alternator. Anybody have any tips on a good place to look for one or who might have a deal? I've been to pa performance, but if I can find one for less than the $199 they want, it'd be nice. Thanks for any help.

Chris

lx5091 · 10-01-2002, 09:27 AM

Autozone.com

Valucraft
part #7734-6-11
$139.99

This is just one example.

Conman · 10-01-2002, 09:51 AM

I don't know where to get a better price but I did find this article that you might be interested in

http://www.racesystems.com/

Click on the articles section

Some people recommend you redo the wiring all the way to the battery and use larger fusible links because of the increased current. This guy didn't and doesn't seem to be having any problems but it's some food for thought.

TMASTER · 10-01-2002, 01:16 PM

I just replaced my old alternator with a 80 AMP one thinking i didnt have very much power from the old one. It turns out it didnt help much.
I figured out the reason is that i have a power pully on my crank. The smaller diameter makes the alternator creat less power than normal. about 20% less Your alternator gauge will be low and lights dim.
The sloution everyone thinks is getting a 130 AMP alt. (Be carefull) I've seen 2 or 3 fox body mustang alternators caught on fire, becuase the harness being melted. So carry a Extinguisher

Conman · 10-01-2002, 04:04 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by TMASTER
The sloution everyone thinks is getting a 130 AMP alt. (Be carefull) I've seen 2 or 3 fox body mustang alternators caught on fire, becuase the harness being melted. So carry a Extinguisher

The 130 is a good solution but that is why some people recommend replacing the entire wiring harness to the battery with a larger gauge wire. If you do that you shouldn't ever have to worry about charging problems again.

Hozer 88GTConv · 10-01-2002, 06:58 PM

I can solidly recommend the Powermaster 140 amp alternator.
Con: $210
Pro: Unique Single wire hook-up included that connects directly to the positive terminal on the battery.
14 amp output at idle (700 rpm) with everything on, and I mean everything.

Mustang_289 · 10-02-2002, 06:56 AM

We went with the PA-PERFORMANCE 130amp upgrade, very happy with it - plenty of amps, great support, lifetime warranty.

If you change the connectors on the alt, which Ford did on later models to reduce risk of fire, and use 4gauge to battery with inline fuse. No worries about something burning up. Think about it - you're going from a 60Amp alt to 130Amp - requires bigger wire to handle extra current. If you don't change this wire - you're running the risk of stock wire melting and catching fire.

Hozer 88GTConv · 10-02-2002, 09:32 AM

The Powermaster doesn't even need to use the factory harness at all.
It comes with a single heavy guage wire that connects directly from the back of the unit to the positive terminal on your battery.
It can do this because it has a built-in on/off/regulator assembly that is as reliable as anything.

chris91LX · 10-02-2002, 11:46 AM

Thanks for all the replies guys. Yes I am going to rewire it, I already have the 4 gauge wire and inline fuse I'm going to run to my battery shut-off switch. Thanks for the link to that tech article Conman, there's some good stuff in there I'm sure I'll use. I might just go with an Autozone alt. for the $130, I believe it has a lifetime warranty, so if it goes I can get it replaced. I don't really want to deal with a junkyard one or spend $200 plus. Hopefully it'll swap pretty easy, looks like the fan is going to be the tricky install.
Thanks again,

Chris

red82gt · 10-02-2002, 04:22 PM

Try Ebay, there are a couple shops selling them online, just type in 3g Alternator, Most are less than $110. I'm using a 110 amp alternator out of a T-bird SC, changed around the wiring (Very simple) and I now get 13.3 V at idle with the lights, etc. on rather than 11.1 V with the old alternator. Just add a 2-4 guage wire and fuse from the + side of the alternator to the battery or solenoid. The SC alternator didn't require any grinding to fit the bracket and the top hole is threaded so it's a direct swap, took lessthan a half hour, wiring included.

10-01-2002, 08:53 AM	#1
chris91LX Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1998 Location: Suburban Chicago, Hanover Park Posts: 695	Need to go with a 130 amp alt. I'm going with an sn95 fan and I'm going to need to go with a 130 amp alternator. Anybody have any tips on a good place to look for one or who might have a deal? I've been to pa performance, but if I can find one for less than the $199 they want, it'd be nice. Thanks for any help. Chris __________________ My Ford Club http://www.midwestfords.org/ Best time N/A 12.9 @ 107 1.711 60' 125 shot - 12.04 @ 113 1.59 60'

10-01-2002, 09:27 AM	#2
lx5091 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Fall River, MA Posts: 467	Autozone.com Valucraft part #7734-6-11 $139.99 This is just one example. __________________ '02 Explorer XLT 4.0L --Nice Vehicle '97 Saturn SL1--Soon to be ditched for a Ford!

10-01-2002, 09:51 AM	#3
Conman Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Kingston, Ontario Posts: 351	I don't know where to get a better price but I did find this article that you might be interested in http://www.racesystems.com/ Click on the articles section Some people recommend you redo the wiring all the way to the battery and use larger fusible links because of the increased current. This guy didn't and doesn't seem to be having any problems but it's some food for thought. __________________ '88 lx, Black on Black, check it out here Spent all my money on school, what a dumb mistake I'm old enough to know better, but still too young to care.

10-01-2002, 01:16 PM	#4
TMASTER Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: TEXAS Posts: 161	Amps I just replaced my old alternator with a 80 AMP one thinking i didnt have very much power from the old one. It turns out it didnt help much. I figured out the reason is that i have a power pully on my crank. The smaller diameter makes the alternator creat less power than normal. about 20% less Your alternator gauge will be low and lights dim. The sloution everyone thinks is getting a 130 AMP alt. (Be carefull) I've seen 2 or 3 fox body mustang alternators caught on fire, becuase the harness being melted. So carry a Extinguisher

10-01-2002, 06:58 PM	#6
Hozer 88GTConv Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Jacksonville, FL Posts: 706	Powermaster... I can solidly recommend the Powermaster 140 amp alternator. Con: $210 Pro: Unique Single wire hook-up included that connects directly to the positive terminal on the battery. 14 amp output at idle (700 rpm) with everything on, and I mean everything. __________________ 1988 GT Convertible 331 10:1 TW heads, GT-40 intake, MSD, TRW flattops, B Cam w/ 1.7's, MAC exhaust, 24's, 70 TB, 76 MAF, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, Koni's, Anderson PMS, Wideband 02, yatta, yatta... One week with new motor, two speeding tickets...joy

10-02-2002, 06:56 AM	#7
Mustang_289 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Posts: 512	We went with the PA-PERFORMANCE 130amp upgrade, very happy with it - plenty of amps, great support, lifetime warranty. If you change the connectors on the alt, which Ford did on later models to reduce risk of fire, and use 4gauge to battery with inline fuse. No worries about something burning up. Think about it - you're going from a 60Amp alt to 130Amp - requires bigger wire to handle extra current. If you don't change this wire - you're running the risk of stock wire melting and catching fire.

10-02-2002, 09:32 AM	#8
Hozer 88GTConv Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Jacksonville, FL Posts: 706	Like I said... The Powermaster doesn't even need to use the factory harness at all. It comes with a single heavy guage wire that connects directly from the back of the unit to the positive terminal on your battery. It can do this because it has a built-in on/off/regulator assembly that is as reliable as anything. __________________ 1988 GT Convertible 331 10:1 TW heads, GT-40 intake, MSD, TRW flattops, B Cam w/ 1.7's, MAC exhaust, 24's, 70 TB, 76 MAF, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, Koni's, Anderson PMS, Wideband 02, yatta, yatta... One week with new motor, two speeding tickets...joy

10-02-2002, 11:46 AM	#9
chris91LX Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1998 Location: Suburban Chicago, Hanover Park Posts: 695	Thanks for all the replies guys. Yes I am going to rewire it, I already have the 4 gauge wire and inline fuse I'm going to run to my battery shut-off switch. Thanks for the link to that tech article Conman, there's some good stuff in there I'm sure I'll use. I might just go with an Autozone alt. for the $130, I believe it has a lifetime warranty, so if it goes I can get it replaced. I don't really want to deal with a junkyard one or spend $200 plus. Hopefully it'll swap pretty easy, looks like the fan is going to be the tricky install. Thanks again, Chris __________________ My Ford Club http://www.midwestfords.org/ Best time N/A 12.9 @ 107 1.711 60' 125 shot - 12.04 @ 113 1.59 60'

10-02-2002, 04:22 PM	#10
red82gt Sober voice of Reason Join Date: Nov 1998 Location: Kelowna, B.C., Canada Posts: 1,514	Try Ebay, there are a couple shops selling them online, just type in 3g Alternator, Most are less than $110. I'm using a 110 amp alternator out of a T-bird SC, changed around the wiring (Very simple) and I now get 13.3 V at idle with the lights, etc. on rather than 11.1 V with the old alternator. Just add a 2-4 guage wire and fuse from the + side of the alternator to the battery or solenoid. The SC alternator didn't require any grinding to fit the bracket and the top hole is threaded so it's a direct swap, took lessthan a half hour, wiring included. __________________ 393W: AFR 205's, hydraulic roller, TKO600.