Should I build my own rear?

gt93mustang · 12-03-2001, 12:23 PM

In preparation for next season, I am upgrading my rear end to a 31 spline setup. I would really like to do this myself instead of paying someone large amounts of money to do it for me, plus the added benefits of personal experience and satisfaction knowing I did all the work on my car.

My question is, how difficult is this job? I already have the 31 spline diff and all the bearings I need. Now I just need to select a set of axles (strange or moser?). What I really need is good reference material to study up on the job. So far, I have done everything else in my signature to my car, so I'm not completely clueless with wrenches, but I have never even cracked a differential cover before.

What are some good reading materials that outlines the process and goes over everything in pretty good detail?

Thanks in advance.

Coupe Devil · 12-03-2001, 12:57 PM

It really isnt hard. I have no idea where to find any material on this. I have learned by example. I watched a buddy several times. If you are using a currently built rearend. You just simply change out the chunk, and bearings being sure to use the same number of spacers and shims on each side of the new reaer as the old. I have never started from scratch on an 8.8 only a dana rear. Average number of times to put together and check a Dana rear is 7 times by the way. If you have 31 spline side gears, and a good center unit. all you should have to do is pull the cover, remove c-clips, brakes, and pull the axles out. slide in the new ones and put it back together. Unless you are planning on changing gears. It really is simple.
Brad

Nitrous Al · 12-03-2001, 02:22 PM

Send it out to a shop. They have the experience, tools and know-how. You'll save yourself money in the long run.

Jeff Chambers · 12-04-2001, 07:29 AM

You've gotten lucky so far then Pony. I just installed an Eaton posi in a 2000GT last night after they broke some axles a few weeks ago. The Eaton was 0.031" wider than the stock posi. Had I simply used the same shimming, the bearings would be burnt before they even got the car back to their house. I'll agree that its not the mystical black box that some think it is, but it is one of the more sensitive and involved tasks on the car besides laying up a crank.

GT93, there's a write-up on my website on gear swaps. The thing to remember is that you get what you've put into it. Sloppy, inaccurate work will most likely lead to noisy gears and short-lived bearings. Take lots of measurements and write them down. Take your time and don't rush it...the clearances and preloads are everything to the longevity of the rear.

gt93mustang · 12-05-2001, 12:29 PM

Thanks for your input guys. I'd still like to tackle this one myself for the education value and satisfaction. This is not my daily driver, so if I screw something up, I can send it out to someone after I get tired of messing it up. You gotta learn somehow, and the best way to learn is to just do it. So, I'm off to check out your write-up Jeff.

Are there any articles in 5.0 magazine or MM&FF? I think I have seen some, but I don't remember which issues.

Thanks again.

Rick 91GT · 12-05-2001, 01:50 PM

Joe, their are books out strictly dealing with rear ends may want to check the local book store. They sell the tool kits which include the dial gauges and things to set- the rear up, you should look into that.

Superior Axles are the ones I am going with the splines are rolled like the Mark Williams models which make them stronger then the cut splines found on Mosers and other brands, they are very competitve in price as well.

Drivetrain Direct (advertise in MM&FF) deals the Superiors, I personally am getting their Eaton Posi kit for my car and will build that for the first time myself. I d have my dad who can set-up a rear to look over my shoulder though and he has all the tools. Like Jeff said backlash and preload is everything to a good running set of gears.

Coupe Devil · 12-05-2001, 02:38 PM

Man I guess I am lucky. I have never had any problems (YET). I figure I will know. I have to still do the rear for my car. It wil probably take me liek 15 times know. Darnit.
Brad

gt93mustang · 12-06-2001, 12:36 PM

OK, so I've found a few sources with some info on rear ends. After going over a couple of them, I've noticed they mentioned the use of a press. Is this absolutely necessary, or are there any tips or tricks to get around needing one? Thanks again guys.

Jeff Chambers · 12-06-2001, 01:14 PM

Not unless you're Superman. I've often thought about buying a press for my garage since its and abolute necessity in doing work like gears. Nothing sucks more than pressing the pinion bearing on, setting it up for the correct depth, then pulling it all back apart and running across town to get the bearing pulled, shim inserted then bearing pressed back on. Find a shop close by that has a press, then build a good relationship with them!

Rick 91GT · 12-06-2001, 01:17 PM

You need the press to put on the pinion bearing, if you don't have a bearing press most machine shops will do it for you for nothing or maybe a few dollars. It is much better then beating it on

gt93mustang · 12-06-2001, 05:09 PM

Well, since I need a press, I may just buy one for the garage. I'm sure it will come in handy on more than one occasion. What size do you guys think I'll need to get? I see them ranging from 1/2 ton all the way to 12 tons with varying prices. So, how big do I need?

Jeff Chambers · 12-07-2001, 07:36 AM

Get at least a 3-ton press.

12-03-2001, 12:23 PM	#1
gt93mustang Registered Member Join Date: Feb 1999 Location: Kennesaw, Georgia, USA Posts: 252	Should I build my own rear? In preparation for next season, I am upgrading my rear end to a 31 spline setup. I would really like to do this myself instead of paying someone large amounts of money to do it for me, plus the added benefits of personal experience and satisfaction knowing I did all the work on my car. My question is, how difficult is this job? I already have the 31 spline diff and all the bearings I need. Now I just need to select a set of axles (strange or moser?). What I really need is good reference material to study up on the job. So far, I have done everything else in my signature to my car, so I'm not completely clueless with wrenches, but I have never even cracked a differential cover before. What are some good reading materials that outlines the process and goes over everything in pretty good detail? Thanks in advance. __________________ MAC equal length headers, MAC Off-Road H-Pipe, Flowmaster mufflers, 373's, underdrive pulleys, 76mm MAF, 65mm TB, TFS Track Heat Intake(ported & gasket matched), Edelbrock 6037 heads (ported, polished, 3 angle valve-job 255CFM @.500), 1.6 FMS RR's, Wolverine 1087 Cam, 30lb injectors, MSD 6AL, Subframe connectors, Griggs Adustable Lower Control Arms, Lakewood 50/50 shocks, SSM Upper Control Arms... and 8lbs of Procharged boost

12-03-2001, 12:57 PM	#2
Coupe Devil Moderator Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Myrtle Beach SC Posts: 1,643	It really isnt hard. I have no idea where to find any material on this. I have learned by example. I watched a buddy several times. If you are using a currently built rearend. You just simply change out the chunk, and bearings being sure to use the same number of spacers and shims on each side of the new reaer as the old. I have never started from scratch on an 8.8 only a dana rear. Average number of times to put together and check a Dana rear is 7 times by the way. If you have 31 spline side gears, and a good center unit. all you should have to do is pull the cover, remove c-clips, brakes, and pull the axles out. slide in the new ones and put it back together. Unless you are planning on changing gears. It really is simple. Brad __________________ 1990 GT, 347, TFS TW Heads, TFS Cam, TFS Track heat, Twin turbos, FMIC, T5. Built Ford Tough Moderator

12-03-2001, 02:22 PM	#3
Nitrous Al Registered Member Join Date: May 2000 Location: Everett, MA Posts: 417	Send it out to a shop. They have the experience, tools and know-how. You'll save yourself money in the long run. __________________ Nitrous Al

12-04-2001, 07:29 AM	#4
Jeff Chambers Moderator Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: Milan, OH Posts: 2,699	You've gotten lucky so far then Pony. I just installed an Eaton posi in a 2000GT last night after they broke some axles a few weeks ago. The Eaton was 0.031" wider than the stock posi. Had I simply used the same shimming, the bearings would be burnt before they even got the car back to their house. I'll agree that its not the mystical black box that some think it is, but it is one of the more sensitive and involved tasks on the car besides laying up a crank. GT93, there's a write-up on my website on gear swaps. The thing to remember is that you get what you've put into it. Sloppy, inaccurate work will most likely lead to noisy gears and short-lived bearings. Take lots of measurements and write them down. Take your time and don't rush it...the clearances and preloads are everything to the longevity of the rear. __________________ Jeff Chambers 1990 Mustang GT 10.032 Seconds / 137.5 MPH 14-time Street Warrior World Record Setter CRT Performance 2001 Tropic Green Mustang GT - 12.181 / 113.2 MPH 2002 Ford F-250 Crew Cab 7.3l Power Stroke - 17.41@77.2 "There's nothing boring about a small block automatic shifting gears at 9400 rpm!"

12-05-2001, 12:29 PM	#5
gt93mustang Registered Member Join Date: Feb 1999 Location: Kennesaw, Georgia, USA Posts: 252	Thanks for your input guys. I'd still like to tackle this one myself for the education value and satisfaction. This is not my daily driver, so if I screw something up, I can send it out to someone after I get tired of messing it up. You gotta learn somehow, and the best way to learn is to just do it. So, I'm off to check out your write-up Jeff. Are there any articles in 5.0 magazine or MM&FF? I think I have seen some, but I don't remember which issues. Thanks again. __________________ MAC equal length headers, MAC Off-Road H-Pipe, Flowmaster mufflers, 373's, underdrive pulleys, 76mm MAF, 65mm TB, TFS Track Heat Intake(ported & gasket matched), Edelbrock 6037 heads (ported, polished, 3 angle valve-job 255CFM @.500), 1.6 FMS RR's, Wolverine 1087 Cam, 30lb injectors, MSD 6AL, Subframe connectors, Griggs Adustable Lower Control Arms, Lakewood 50/50 shocks, SSM Upper Control Arms... and 8lbs of Procharged boost

12-05-2001, 01:50 PM	#6
Rick 91GT Procharged! Join Date: May 1999 Location: Hanover, PA Posts: 1,539	Joe, their are books out strictly dealing with rear ends may want to check the local book store. They sell the tool kits which include the dial gauges and things to set- the rear up, you should look into that. Superior Axles are the ones I am going with the splines are rolled like the Mark Williams models which make them stronger then the cut splines found on Mosers and other brands, they are very competitve in price as well. Drivetrain Direct (advertise in MM&FF) deals the Superiors, I personally am getting their Eaton Posi kit for my car and will build that for the first time myself. I d have my dad who can set-up a rear to look over my shoulder though and he has all the tools. Like Jeff said backlash and preload is everything to a good running set of gears. __________________ *D/R 10108 NMRA Drag Radial, 25.5 chassis, F1R* *Check out RNH Performance Performance Engines and Custom Fabrication.* *From Mild to Wild we can build what you want, when you want it.* FOR SALE Stainless Steel Torque Box Supports

12-05-2001, 02:38 PM	#7
Coupe Devil Moderator Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Myrtle Beach SC Posts: 1,643	Man I guess I am lucky. I have never had any problems (YET). I figure I will know. I have to still do the rear for my car. It wil probably take me liek 15 times know. Darnit. Brad __________________ 1990 GT, 347, TFS TW Heads, TFS Cam, TFS Track heat, Twin turbos, FMIC, T5. Built Ford Tough Moderator

12-06-2001, 12:36 PM	#8
gt93mustang Registered Member Join Date: Feb 1999 Location: Kennesaw, Georgia, USA Posts: 252	OK, so I've found a few sources with some info on rear ends. After going over a couple of them, I've noticed they mentioned the use of a press. Is this absolutely necessary, or are there any tips or tricks to get around needing one? Thanks again guys. __________________ MAC equal length headers, MAC Off-Road H-Pipe, Flowmaster mufflers, 373's, underdrive pulleys, 76mm MAF, 65mm TB, TFS Track Heat Intake(ported & gasket matched), Edelbrock 6037 heads (ported, polished, 3 angle valve-job 255CFM @.500), 1.6 FMS RR's, Wolverine 1087 Cam, 30lb injectors, MSD 6AL, Subframe connectors, Griggs Adustable Lower Control Arms, Lakewood 50/50 shocks, SSM Upper Control Arms... and 8lbs of Procharged boost

12-06-2001, 01:14 PM	#9
Jeff Chambers Moderator Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: Milan, OH Posts: 2,699	Not unless you're Superman. I've often thought about buying a press for my garage since its and abolute necessity in doing work like gears. Nothing sucks more than pressing the pinion bearing on, setting it up for the correct depth, then pulling it all back apart and running across town to get the bearing pulled, shim inserted then bearing pressed back on. Find a shop close by that has a press, then build a good relationship with them! __________________ Jeff Chambers 1990 Mustang GT 10.032 Seconds / 137.5 MPH 14-time Street Warrior World Record Setter CRT Performance 2001 Tropic Green Mustang GT - 12.181 / 113.2 MPH 2002 Ford F-250 Crew Cab 7.3l Power Stroke - 17.41@77.2 "There's nothing boring about a small block automatic shifting gears at 9400 rpm!"

12-06-2001, 01:17 PM	#10
Rick 91GT Procharged! Join Date: May 1999 Location: Hanover, PA Posts: 1,539	You need the press to put on the pinion bearing, if you don't have a bearing press most machine shops will do it for you for nothing or maybe a few dollars. It is much better then beating it on __________________ *D/R 10108 NMRA Drag Radial, 25.5 chassis, F1R* *Check out RNH Performance Performance Engines and Custom Fabrication.* *From Mild to Wild we can build what you want, when you want it.* FOR SALE Stainless Steel Torque Box Supports

12-06-2001, 05:09 PM	#11
gt93mustang Registered Member Join Date: Feb 1999 Location: Kennesaw, Georgia, USA Posts: 252	Well, since I need a press, I may just buy one for the garage. I'm sure it will come in handy on more than one occasion. What size do you guys think I'll need to get? I see them ranging from 1/2 ton all the way to 12 tons with varying prices. So, how big do I need? __________________ MAC equal length headers, MAC Off-Road H-Pipe, Flowmaster mufflers, 373's, underdrive pulleys, 76mm MAF, 65mm TB, TFS Track Heat Intake(ported & gasket matched), Edelbrock 6037 heads (ported, polished, 3 angle valve-job 255CFM @.500), 1.6 FMS RR's, Wolverine 1087 Cam, 30lb injectors, MSD 6AL, Subframe connectors, Griggs Adustable Lower Control Arms, Lakewood 50/50 shocks, SSM Upper Control Arms... and 8lbs of Procharged boost

12-07-2001, 07:36 AM	#12
Jeff Chambers Moderator Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: Milan, OH Posts: 2,699	Get at least a 3-ton press. __________________ Jeff Chambers 1990 Mustang GT 10.032 Seconds / 137.5 MPH 14-time Street Warrior World Record Setter CRT Performance 2001 Tropic Green Mustang GT - 12.181 / 113.2 MPH 2002 Ford F-250 Crew Cab 7.3l Power Stroke - 17.41@77.2 "There's nothing boring about a small block automatic shifting gears at 9400 rpm!"

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