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Old 01-09-2001, 07:06 PM   #1
BowTie Eater 5 Liter
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Question Will an e303 cam work with all stock components?

Will an e3o3 cam work on my stock 88gt (T-5) without using different rockers, pushrods, valve springs... & will i have to convert to masss air? will i have a piston to valve clearence problem?

Any info appreccieated.
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Old 01-09-2001, 07:17 PM   #2
NO SLO PK
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I installed an E cam on my 91 with stock E7 heads and didn't use the special springs, rockers, etc. It worked fine. For your car, it should "fit" okay but I don't know if the speed density will work with it.

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'91 LX
Procharger, 3 row intercooler, extrude honed Cobra intake, Mac full Length Headers, 30# inj., 73mm C&L, 75mm tb, E303 cam, 289 rods, ported E7 heads, MSD, T-Rex w/255 lph Walbro, 5 lug conversion, Cobra R wheels, 3.27 gears and Moser Axles.
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Old 01-09-2001, 07:28 PM   #3
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Will an e3o3 cam work on my stock 88gt (T-5) without using different rockers, pushrods, valve springs? Yes, but I would not recommend it without the springs because the valves will probably float at higher rpm's. It will hurt your low end torque a little and you will pick it back up high in the rmp's but not with out the springs.

Will I have to convert to mass air? No, but you might have a problem with the idle and drivability problems.

Will I have a piston to valve clearance problem? No


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James Cox
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1991 Mustang LX
Best 1/8 time on motor 7.686 @90.20mph
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Old 01-09-2001, 07:33 PM   #4
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What type of valve springs should i use?
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Old 01-09-2001, 07:54 PM   #5
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When you buy your cam ask for some springs to match your cam. I am not sure what springs they are but I do know they should be around $120.00 and they should have them where you get your cam.

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James Cox
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1991 Mustang LX
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Old 01-09-2001, 08:31 PM   #6
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Replacing the cam on a stock motor will not net the performance gains you are looking for.

The cam is not the biggest problem. The cam should only be changed if you have a different intake, and head modifications, or different heads all together.

If you do the swap, you should get an adjustable fuel pressure regulator to fine tune you motor so the computer will have less problems adapting to the cam change.
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Old 01-09-2001, 08:52 PM   #7
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There are a lot of better mod’s to do before a cam. I waited until I got my heads to get a cam but if you are after the sound then go for it, if you are just after more power then post the mod’s you have right now and we can recommend the best mod’s for your car.

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Old 01-10-2001, 01:07 AM   #8
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I'm tellin ya, you don't need to replace the springs if your stock ones are holding up. I was running 12.70s at 111mph a few years ago with with the stock heads and E-cam. If you want to be safe, then buy the springs but it'll be a waste of money if you swap heads later on.
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Old 01-10-2001, 05:38 AM   #9
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I agree, dont know what all the fuss about the valve springs is for. If your motor has reasonable mileage, your stock springs will work just fine with the e cam.

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Old 01-10-2001, 07:22 AM   #10
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Yes, yes, yes, No, no, no, I agree with every one. It will work, It should not be done now. The stock cam is good for 12.50s. Why not go with roller rockers for now?

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Old 01-10-2001, 08:40 AM   #11
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I did not say it would not work for sure, I said it might(probably) float the valves.
I am going on the fact that he has an 88 and it probably has a lot of miles on it and I have seen it happen.
Sorry if there was any confusion, but I still would not recommend it; but then I would not recommend the cam right now either.


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Old 01-10-2001, 09:21 AM   #12
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A cam will give you a little more power by moving the power band upwards... the stock heads & intake will certainly limit you.

The cam should really be the last thing you do... to make all your components work together.

I agree that some 1.7 roller rockers would probably yield the best street improvement. A little more lift, but retaining the cylinder pressure.

That said, with flow restricted heads etc... you can actually go with a bigger cam than most people think. Your smaller ports and runners mean you get GREAT flow velocity, so it'll keep filling with longer durations. You'll certainly loose low end though, and would want some gears. I'd prefer a broader streetable torque band though.

Stock cam is something like:
211,115lsa,.444"

The E cam is the same as the crane 2040:
220/220,110lsa,.498/.498

The crane 2030 would be more suitable (if you REALLY want a cam):
214/220,112lsa,.533/.544

The broader lobe separation gives you a broader torque band, better idle, and it'll be more SD friendly. It's got a lot more lift than the alphabet cams. The split duration favours the weak exhaust, and keeps the cylinder pressure up. You can get the cam kit with springs for $210... I'd get the springs.
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Old 01-10-2001, 11:17 AM   #13
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if you want more top end power then just retard your stock cam a few degrees..no point on retarding your cam or buying a bigger one cuz the cam is not the bottleneck in your motor right now..

------------------
1987 black notch(ex 4 banger)
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