Running too hot!! - Page 2

Oldschoolpony · 03-28-2002, 12:44 AM

I run hot, 220, 230 or so, only when I stomp on it, have a 180 but car sits at 190 when cruising around. But I still have the stock radiator. with a permacoll fan, Hopefully, The new Griffin and electric fan will keep it cool. I'm running alot of timming, Id have to get the light out to tell how much, but also running 100 octane( actually 9 gals of 93 and 5 gals of 114, they wont let you put 114 in the car if its not on a trailer. LOL so I make my own witches brew. lol-----wild turkey for cars

DRASTiK · 03-28-2002, 04:27 AM

well I just got back from taking it for a test drive. I wasn't able to get on it real hard, but I drove around slowly and stopped often for about 30 minutes. It didn't get as hot as before. My gauge started reading a little funny once. It moved up towards overheating temps extremely fast all of a sudden!!! I shut it down and popped the hood, but the motor didn't seem that hot. The upper radiator hose wasn't hot yet meaning that the new 180 stat hadn't been open. I took the radiator cap off and the water level had gone down a little, but not much, probably from the air bubbles getting out of the system, so I put a little water back in it and fired it up. It had only been sitting for about 3 minutes or so from the time I shut it down and when I fired it back up, the gauge read a much lower temp. I'm getting a new gauge tomorrow morning and I'll have more time to drive it around then too. I'll post what happens.
Dave

03-28-2002, 05:17 AM

Quote:

My gauge started reading a little funny once. It moved up towards overheating temps extremely fast all of a sudden!!!

I'm betting your looking at the factory temp gauge,correct? if you are they are about as accurate as...as ...well you get the idea...they be junk

The temp gauge,fuel gauge both did crazy things every now and then on my 85GT,if I woulda kept it,i would have bought aftermarket gauges,as the stock gauges are a joke

sounds good so far..

DRASTiK · 03-28-2002, 05:01 PM

well I bought an AutoMeter Ultra Lite mechanical temp gauge. I am getting ready to go install it now.

Now that I've been running my car for a few weeks with it getting hot, the starter doesn't want to turn the motor over when it's hot. The starter is under warranty, but if I take the starter out of the car, and take it to them (autozone) to test it, it's gonna be cool enough to test fine and they won't give me another one to replace it. How can I avoid this problem? Any suggestions?

richd · 03-30-2002, 02:12 AM

You mentioned that your overflow tank doesn't return fluid, only catches it?

If that is the case, you should get a new/used one that will return the coolant. What happens is the coolant expands as the engine warms up and pressurizes the system. After a certain point the rad cap releases some pressure to not stress the system. It does this by letting some coolant pass by. When the engine cools the coolant contracts, thus creating negative pressure in the system. The cap opens a reverse valve letting coolant get sucked in from the overflow bottle.

If the coolant can't return you will have less coolant in the system after the first drive cycle. Once this happens you will slowly lose coolant over time. This is from the coolant evaporating in the 'air space' in the radiator and being pushed out when the engine heats up and only air (without evaporated coolant) return when it cools.

I bet if you switch overflow tanks you'll see your temp stay where it should be much more often.

Good luck,

Rich D.

DRASTiK · 03-30-2002, 02:49 AM

Thanks for the info Rich. When I bought my car, it didn't have the stock overflow bottle. In fact, it didn't have an overflow bottle at all. I bought a summit one that has a valve at the bottom, so I can drain it when I need to. My question to you is: can I rig this up to where I can leave the valve open all the time and put a tube from that valve back into my radiator? If that were possible, then where would that tube go? How does the stock one work and how is it all connected?

Jeb_Bush_2000 · 03-30-2002, 03:06 PM

Quote:

It moved up towards overheating temps extremely fast all of a sudden!!!

Y'know, mine did that once. It was the damndest thing.

I think my thermostat stuck, but that's obviously not your problem.

DRASTiK · 03-30-2002, 04:54 PM

Actually Jeb, I think that is what happened as it was right at 180 degrees when it happened and it was a brand new stat. I guess it just needed a little push to open that first time. It's been fine ever since.

Jeb_Bush_2000 · 03-30-2002, 07:34 PM

Mine rarely ever goes above the mid-point on the guage in normal operation. That one time, though, it went a little more than 3/4 up, then dropped suddenly. The funny thing was that I had turned the heat on, but cold air was coming out. Usually by the time it's 1/8th up the guage, hot air comes out.

stng87 · 03-31-2002, 01:41 PM

Make sure your fan is turning the right direction. A while back I had a guy from the parts store give me a fan that was reversed. So the whole time it was blowing hot air from the engine forward to the radiator. #%$ was it ever hard to find that problem! Maybe the belt is routed the opposite way around the fan making it turn in the opposite direction. Possible??? I'm not sure, with fox mustangs I've found anything is.

stng87 · 03-31-2002, 01:58 PM

Another interesting and confusing problem I had produced the exact same heating problems that you are having. My cause was that my battery shifted over next to the overflow hose and partially pinched it off. Within 2 mins. the temp would shoot to 220-230. I noticed the pinch and positioned the battery correctly, and the temp went to normal.
It happened 2 more times before I finally got the battery hold down fixed, then never again. You're situation is not exactly the same, but without a correct overflow setup, it is similar. Id get it exactly to the original factory setup.
BTW, I'm about 20 min up the 5 from you here in Mission Viejo. Let me know if you need any help. OOH-RAH

03-28-2002, 12:44 AM	#21
Oldschoolpony Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Gainsville,Fl Posts: 229	same problem here. I run hot, 220, 230 or so, only when I stomp on it, have a 180 but car sits at 190 when cruising around. But I still have the stock radiator. with a permacoll fan, Hopefully, The new Griffin and electric fan will keep it cool. I'm running alot of timming, Id have to get the light out to tell how much, but also running 100 octane( actually 9 gals of 93 and 5 gals of 114, they wont let you put 114 in the car if its not on a trailer. LOL so I make my own witches brew. lol-----wild turkey for cars __________________ http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/...splay.cgi?1546

03-30-2002, 02:49 AM	#26
DRASTiK Registered Member Join Date: May 2001 Location: Yuma, AZ Posts: 536	Thanks for the info Rich. When I bought my car, it didn't have the stock overflow bottle. In fact, it didn't have an overflow bottle at all. I bought a summit one that has a valve at the bottom, so I can drain it when I need to. My question to you is: can I rig this up to where I can leave the valve open all the time and put a tube from that valve back into my radiator? If that were possible, then where would that tube go? How does the stock one work and how is it all connected? __________________ Dave 88 GT - 13.4@106 on street tires (2.2 60ft) My Stang RHC member #75 My stang is FOR SALE!!

03-31-2002, 01:41 PM	#30
stng87 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: southern california Posts: 329	Make sure your fan is turning the right direction. A while back I had a guy from the parts store give me a fan that was reversed. So the whole time it was blowing hot air from the engine forward to the radiator. #%$ was it ever hard to find that problem! Maybe the belt is routed the opposite way around the fan making it turn in the opposite direction. Possible??? I'm not sure, with fox mustangs I've found anything is. __________________ 1987 black with t-tops. Cobra intake, 1.7 cobra crane rollers, gt40p's, bbk shorties, off road h-pipe, Holley adj. fuel pressure regulator, Tremec t-5z, 65mm TB, 4.10's, adj cable, 155lph fuel pump, Ram clutch kit, 3 row motorsport radiator, Chrome cobras17x9 front, 17x10.5 rear, Hurst shifter,Former AOD Semper Fi

03-31-2002, 01:58 PM	#31
stng87 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: southern california Posts: 329	Another interesting and confusing problem I had produced the exact same heating problems that you are having. My cause was that my battery shifted over next to the overflow hose and partially pinched it off. Within 2 mins. the temp would shoot to 220-230. I noticed the pinch and positioned the battery correctly, and the temp went to normal. It happened 2 more times before I finally got the battery hold down fixed, then never again. You're situation is not exactly the same, but without a correct overflow setup, it is similar. Id get it exactly to the original factory setup. BTW, I'm about 20 min up the 5 from you here in Mission Viejo. Let me know if you need any help. OOH-RAH __________________ 1987 black with t-tops. Cobra intake, 1.7 cobra crane rollers, gt40p's, bbk shorties, off road h-pipe, Holley adj. fuel pressure regulator, Tremec t-5z, 65mm TB, 4.10's, adj cable, 155lph fuel pump, Ram clutch kit, 3 row motorsport radiator, Chrome cobras17x9 front, 17x10.5 rear, Hurst shifter,Former AOD Semper Fi

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03-28-2002, 04:27 AM	#22
DRASTiK Registered Member Join Date: May 2001 Location: Yuma, AZ Posts: 536	well I just got back from taking it for a test drive. I wasn't able to get on it real hard, but I drove around slowly and stopped often for about 30 minutes. It didn't get as hot as before. My gauge started reading a little funny once. It moved up towards overheating temps extremely fast all of a sudden!!! I shut it down and popped the hood, but the motor didn't seem that hot. The upper radiator hose wasn't hot yet meaning that the new 180 stat hadn't been open. I took the radiator cap off and the water level had gone down a little, but not much, probably from the air bubbles getting out of the system, so I put a little water back in it and fired it up. It had only been sitting for about 3 minutes or so from the time I shut it down and when I fired it back up, the gauge read a much lower temp. I'm getting a new gauge tomorrow morning and I'll have more time to drive it around then too. I'll post what happens. Dave

03-28-2002, 05:01 PM	#24
DRASTiK Registered Member Join Date: May 2001 Location: Yuma, AZ Posts: 536	well I bought an AutoMeter Ultra Lite mechanical temp gauge. I am getting ready to go install it now. Now that I've been running my car for a few weeks with it getting hot, the starter doesn't want to turn the motor over when it's hot. The starter is under warranty, but if I take the starter out of the car, and take it to them (autozone) to test it, it's gonna be cool enough to test fine and they won't give me another one to replace it. How can I avoid this problem? Any suggestions?

03-30-2002, 02:12 AM	#25
richd Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Edison, NJ, USA Posts: 125	You mentioned that your overflow tank doesn't return fluid, only catches it? If that is the case, you should get a new/used one that will return the coolant. What happens is the coolant expands as the engine warms up and pressurizes the system. After a certain point the rad cap releases some pressure to not stress the system. It does this by letting some coolant pass by. When the engine cools the coolant contracts, thus creating negative pressure in the system. The cap opens a reverse valve letting coolant get sucked in from the overflow bottle. If the coolant can't return you will have less coolant in the system after the first drive cycle. Once this happens you will slowly lose coolant over time. This is from the coolant evaporating in the 'air space' in the radiator and being pushed out when the engine heats up and only air (without evaporated coolant) return when it cools. I bet if you switch overflow tanks you'll see your temp stay where it should be much more often. Good luck, Rich D.

03-30-2002, 04:54 PM	#28
DRASTiK Registered Member Join Date: May 2001 Location: Yuma, AZ Posts: 536	Actually Jeb, I think that is what happened as it was right at 180 degrees when it happened and it was a brand new stat. I guess it just needed a little push to open that first time. It's been fine ever since.

03-30-2002, 07:34 PM	#29
Jeb_Bush_2000 Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Taxachusetts Posts: 374	Mine rarely ever goes above the mid-point on the guage in normal operation. That one time, though, it went a little more than 3/4 up, then dropped suddenly. The funny thing was that I had turned the heat on, but cold air was coming out. Usually by the time it's 1/8th up the guage, hot air comes out.