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04-07-2002, 07:03 PM | #1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 1999
Location: River Falls, WI
Posts: 8
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Can I do it myself????
I am looking to install a new set of aluminum heads and cam in my mildly modified 94GT. I know that thousands of people out there have done this mod but I was wondering if it is something that a guy with moderate mechanical skills and a decent set of tools should tackle. What kind of time would I be looking at? Would I need any special tools? I would like to save from outrageous shop labor rates if possible. Also, are the header bolt configurations the same on Edelbrock RPM's as stock? Thanx for everyones help.
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04-07-2002, 07:19 PM | #2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: San Jose, California USA
Posts: 275
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shouldn't be TOO difficult. Im in the process of doing it myself for the first time too as we speak. Im taking my time doing it, going to be done by the end of the month. Its nice to have someone who knows cars to answer all your questions. About the cam, many will tell you you need a degree wheel. My neighbor says that just lining up the timing marks should be close enough and the difference can be made up with the distributer. He personally drag races his 10sec all motor 440 dodge and used to keep his teams own racing car in his garage, so im going to trust him on this. He said he would help me too, so I do have a back up plan.
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1993 Grabber Blue Mustang GT Trick Flow Heads, Street Heat intake, 3/8in spacer, E303, TFS 1.7rr & 6.75 pushrods, Holley 190lph fuel pump, 24# injectors & sample tube, SVO timing chain, Aeromotive AFPR, 180* t-stat, 2 5/8 Auto Meter mech fuel pressure gauge, K&N, March Ram Air & Pullies, 73mm C&L MAF, Edelbrock 65mm TB & EGR, 1 5/8in Equal Length Super Competition Hooker Headers, 2 1/2in H-Pipe w/hi-flow cats & Flowmaster 2 1/2in Cat-Back Exhaust, FlowTech Cut-Outs, Nitto DR's, 3.73 gears, FMS Aluminum DriveShaft, Pro 5.0 Shifter, Pro-Shift Lite, 8.5mm MSD Super Cunductor Plug Wires, PowerSlot rotors, PowerMaster 140amp Alt., LX lights, Cobra R hood w/SVO scoop, Saleen spoiler, Cobra Bumper, 3in chrome tips. |
04-07-2002, 08:23 PM | #3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: W. Springfield, PA
Posts: 65
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Yeah. You can do it.
I just tore mine down for the first time. I have had other motors apart but don't consider myself experienced by any means. The only special tool I needed was a harmonic balancer puller, a set of plastic (things) for taking apart the fuel lines, a small gear puller for getting the lower timing gear off (, and a torque wrench (if you consider that a special tool). I am very glad I had my daughter labeling stuff as I took it apart. A few weeks later when I started putting it back together, you start forgeting what went where... Now if I can just figure out where I'm dumping the fuel from I should be okay. Good luck! |
04-08-2002, 11:54 AM | #4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 1998
Location: Suburban Chicago, Hanover Park
Posts: 695
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You can do it. I did the heads, cam and intake for the first time myself in January. I'd never even seen it done before. Just make sure you take your time about it and mark everything, I kept all the bolts for each accessory in a separate sandwich bag, and took pictures of each stage of the teardown so I'd have something to reference if I needed to. You can also tape bolts to the parts they belong with, such as the grounding wires and the smog tube that runs across the heads in the back. I was surprised at how easy it went, I have a couple mechanic buddies who i was counting on jumping in if i messed something up, but the only thing i needed from them was advice, I did all the work myself.
I didn't have to remove the fuel lines I just unbolted them from the block and twisted them up and out of the way. Your gonna have to remove the radiator and twist the the a/c condenser(?) up and out of the way to put in the new cam, but it's all pretty simple stuff. I didn't use a degree wheel for my cam either, a guy on this board had me all freaked out about it for a couple days, but i got it all together and it runs like a top by just lining up the marks on the timing chain gears. The header bolts on the RPM's are the same as they are on the stock heads, so you'll have no problem there. The best advice i can give you is to take your time, mark everything and don't be afraid to post questions. If you do a search on my name you'll see some of the stupid questions i asked a couple months ago If you have any questions feel free to pm me and I'll help you out if i can. Good luck. Chris |
04-08-2002, 12:00 PM | #5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 1998
Location: Suburban Chicago, Hanover Park
Posts: 695
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Hey, I just noticed your from Wisconsin. If you want check out www.midwestfords.org It's a local club I'm in and there might be someone from up by you who might be able to help you out. Not sure where your town is, but i know there's at least one guy in the club who's from the Green Bay area who is extremely knowledgeable about Mustangs. The only real problem with the guy is that hes a Packer fan
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04-08-2002, 09:24 PM | #6 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Rockingham,N.C.
Posts: 80
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performer rpm's
What kinda performance you guys gettin from the rpm's???I been lookin at the myself.
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88 Notchback orig. 4 cylinder car with a efi v8 swap from a wrecked 89 5.0 hatch,edelbrock performer rpm's 190/160,typhoon intake,comp cams 1.6 rockers,65mm tb and spacer,pa performance c4 w/ 3000 stall,3.73's auburn pro, 31 spline mosers,mac off road h-pipe,1 5/8 shorties ,and 2 1/2 pro dumps,kirban fpr,190 lph walbrp. SOON TO BE BLOWN! |
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