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Old 04-10-2002, 12:48 PM   #1
Rosco
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Exclamation Feels like a problem.....

Well, it finally gets really nice out and now I think there might be something wrong. It actually started this morning when I was driving my car. The clutch used to have just about no play...maybe like...1/4". Now it feels more like 1 1/2" or further until it engages. I also noticed that when rpm's increase the clutch pedal shakes alot. I can feel it with my foot just touching it. One other thing, I used to have no problems putting it into gear...But now, i have to push the clutch in as far and as hard as I can to easily get it into 1st and 2nd. So, anyone have any idea what I could check or have any idea what this might be? To me it obviously seems like it's all related to one problem...
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Old 04-10-2002, 12:55 PM   #2
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Sounds like a worn or stretched-out cable, and a glazed flywheel. You might even have some oil on the clutch.
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Old 04-10-2002, 01:14 PM   #3
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ok, so if it's oil on the clutch...then what now? Is it something that will go away? or does it mean that it might be leaking somewhere?
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Old 04-10-2002, 01:15 PM   #4
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If there is no noise it most likely isn't the tranny which is good new, but it does sound like a streched out cable, they do that, I would replace it or at least inspect it before it leaves you stranded somewhere. Have you ever replaced it or is it stock?
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Old 04-10-2002, 01:31 PM   #5
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Honestly I'm not really sure. When I bought the car the clutch was just replaced with about 2k on it, so as of now it has about...14k on it. it's weird though, I mean...all of a sudden it just started to feel sloppy this morning, and last night I had no problems with it what so ever. If this is it, is it smoething I can do, or something i'd leave to a mechanic? And any idea about how much it'd cost?
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Old 04-10-2002, 01:53 PM   #6
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If it's sloppy but consistant, it might be your quadrant. If it's sloppy and seems to change from day to day, it's the cable. Mine does the same thing.


If you don't want to replace it, you'd better practice shifting without the clutch. Because when the cable does break, you need to get as close to home as possible before you have to stop.
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Old 04-10-2002, 02:07 PM   #7
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It seems to be pretty constant everyday when it wasn't so sloppy as in today. But still, as sloppy as it is...it's still constant with me having to push the damn thing all the way to the floor to easily put it in 1st and 2nd. Anyone know how much a replacement cable or quadrant would cost? And possibly installed as well? Hmm...driving without shifting eh? not really sure how that works, although my dad said he could do it with his old Dodge Dart... heh
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Old 04-10-2002, 02:23 PM   #8
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The cable install isn't very difficult at all and I suggest you give it a try. While you're at it, I'd go ahead and check to see if you still are using the stock self adjusting quadrant (above the clutch pedal it will look whiteish and be two pieces.) If you're using the stock quadrant, I'd go ahead and order an aftermarket quadrant and cable kit, with the option of a firewall adjuster. I use the steeda kit and it works fine, but there are others out there that are fine too.

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Old 04-10-2002, 02:42 PM   #9
Hozer 88GTConv
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Default Clutch Pawl...

The plastic pos everyone is talking about is called the clutch pawl. I had the exact problem 4 yrs ago.
The thing is, the self-adjusting mechanism is comprised of plastic teeth that wear out.
There is a simple test you can perform to verify the condition of your pawl. Basically, you crawl under your instrument cluster and take the load off of the cable by depressing the pedal all the way up. Then, you manipulate the pawl to it's highest position. You'll know it when you feel it. When you depress the pedal again, you should hear/feel the pawl adjust.
It is in your book I'm sure.
If you need it though, I can look it up.
Either way, get the aluminum kit, they give you a new cable too and you left calf will get strong.
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Old 04-10-2002, 03:37 PM   #10
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Haha, stronger left calf, that's just what I need, unbalancing of my body Unfortunatly, I haven't got the time to take a look at it today or tomorrow. But..luckily i remeber that my uncle works at a garage in the area and he said they could take a look at it on friday and lemme know exactly what's going on with it. Also good thing I remebered because he said they could install anything I buy for my car Thanks alot everyone.

Hozer... If it is the clutch pawl that's broken, worn..well basically causing the problem, you think it'll damage anything? Or have any bad effects on anything else other then having to push the clutch all the way in? thanks
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1989 Mustang
5.0 Conversion, Full Saleen ground effects and spoiler, '94 saleen decal set, '93 Saleen Seats, Black interior from a '93, Steeda quadrant, smog pump delete, a/c delete, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, '97 rear differential, aluminum driveshaft, 5 lug conversion, '97 rear disc brakes, southside upper and lower control arms, '99 GT Anniversary wheels, flowtech longtubes, flowtech offroad H-pipe, saleen lowering springs, kyb shocks, caster/camber plates
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Old 04-10-2002, 04:46 PM   #11
Hozer 88GTConv
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Default nope...

The clutch pawl was designed to give a level of "mechanical advantage", that is less force required than would be if the clutch/pressure plate/clutch fork were linked directly to the pedal.
That's what the kits do, they make a "heavier" clutch that's all.
And they provide a means for adjusting the clutch manually typically with a jamb nut. It's a standard upgrade and not too bad at around $100 bucks.
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331 10:1 TW heads, GT-40 intake, MSD, TRW flattops, B Cam w/ 1.7's, MAC exhaust, 24's, 70 TB, 76 MAF, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, Koni's, Anderson PMS, Wideband 02, yatta, yatta...
One week with new motor, two speeding tickets...joy
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Old 04-10-2002, 06:22 PM   #12
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Well that's not to bad. Hopefully my uncle will be able to tell me more on friday when they look at it. And with the adjustable one, you can adjust how much pressure needs to be put on the clutch to disengage? I'm assuming that's correct. Oh yeah, 1 more question, someone was saying something to me about it possibly being not enough fluid inside the Resevoir for the clutch cable? But that's only correct if it is a hydraulic clutch correct? And does the '91 have a hydraulic clutch?
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1989 Mustang
5.0 Conversion, Full Saleen ground effects and spoiler, '94 saleen decal set, '93 Saleen Seats, Black interior from a '93, Steeda quadrant, smog pump delete, a/c delete, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, '97 rear differential, aluminum driveshaft, 5 lug conversion, '97 rear disc brakes, southside upper and lower control arms, '99 GT Anniversary wheels, flowtech longtubes, flowtech offroad H-pipe, saleen lowering springs, kyb shocks, caster/camber plates
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Old 04-10-2002, 06:24 PM   #13
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Default Clutch Pawl

Oh yeah almost forgot, where exactly is the clutch pawl located? Would it be visible if I were to look underneath the dash w/o removing the kick panel and such?
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1989 Mustang
5.0 Conversion, Full Saleen ground effects and spoiler, '94 saleen decal set, '93 Saleen Seats, Black interior from a '93, Steeda quadrant, smog pump delete, a/c delete, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, '97 rear differential, aluminum driveshaft, 5 lug conversion, '97 rear disc brakes, southside upper and lower control arms, '99 GT Anniversary wheels, flowtech longtubes, flowtech offroad H-pipe, saleen lowering springs, kyb shocks, caster/camber plates
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Old 04-10-2002, 07:25 PM   #14
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Default Clutch Pawl...

It is a triangular shaped plastic piece about 4 inches long along the outer tooth arc. It is held in place by a cotter key and spring.
You'll have to do it mostly by feel.
I believe I retracted the drivers seat all the way back, and reclined it and then climbed in upside down so my eyes were right next to the clutch pedal.
Have a good droplight, and take your time and it won't take long.
Took me about 45 mins.
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1988 GT Convertible
331 10:1 TW heads, GT-40 intake, MSD, TRW flattops, B Cam w/ 1.7's, MAC exhaust, 24's, 70 TB, 76 MAF, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, Koni's, Anderson PMS, Wideband 02, yatta, yatta...
One week with new motor, two speeding tickets...joy
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Old 04-10-2002, 09:35 PM   #15
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Ok.. so How will i know if it is deffinitly that? Meaning...what things do i hafto look for? I am assuming it comes off as a whole piece? or i just need to remove one piece from another? Well I'm gonna take a look at it tomorrow...If it is that...is that something i can pick up pretty cheap?
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1989 Mustang
5.0 Conversion, Full Saleen ground effects and spoiler, '94 saleen decal set, '93 Saleen Seats, Black interior from a '93, Steeda quadrant, smog pump delete, a/c delete, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, '97 rear differential, aluminum driveshaft, 5 lug conversion, '97 rear disc brakes, southside upper and lower control arms, '99 GT Anniversary wheels, flowtech longtubes, flowtech offroad H-pipe, saleen lowering springs, kyb shocks, caster/camber plates
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