I'm a bonehead!!!!

Big Bopper · 04-19-2002, 12:37 AM

O.K. Guys ...Don't laugh at me to bad..... I can't figure out how to set up my distributor I took it out when doing other things. Now my car won't start, this is the only thing it can be ... Can someone explain in really easy terms how to put it back in so my car will start? I know how to set the timing and stuff, but this makes me feel really stupid

(I turned the motor over by hand when the distributor was out)

Thanks eh!

Big Bopper.

The Jester · 04-19-2002, 12:53 AM

Hey bopper,

Everyones going to stone me for this but..

Im sure it would work the same way as setting up the dist. on a Chev (Gasp). Take out the #1 plug and insert a drift into the plug hole (we'll make sure it won't fall into your motor), then you turn the engine over by hand untill your at TDC on the #1 hole, insert your distributor so that the rotor is pointing to the #1 wire.. That should do it..

So... time for a 4:20?.

Coupe5oh · 04-19-2002, 12:56 AM

you should have marked it, but its alright, once you get it stabbed in, make sure the #1 mark is around where it normally would be, you dont want to be off too much or it wont start, tighten it enought so you can turn it, have someone crank while you turn it, be careful as always, and hit it with a timing light while its being cranked if it doesnt start.

PKRWUD · 04-19-2002, 08:19 AM

jester's on the money, but a wadded up paper napkin stuffed into the spark plug hole works better, IMO (it will pop out when you reach TDC).

Take care,
-Chris

Conman · 04-19-2002, 10:25 AM

if you have no idea where it is now you should also take off the valve cover and make sure both valves are closed at TDC (compression stroke) and then like Jester said point the distibutor to #1

PKRWUD · 04-19-2002, 11:55 AM

That's why I said to put a napkin in the spark plug hole. It will only pop out if the valves are closed. You'll be at TDC on the compression stroke.

No one believes me anymore.

Take care,
-Chris

shadowblue89 · 04-19-2002, 12:37 PM

Hey Chris thats a great idea. I will have to remember that one next time i have to pull mine out.
(MACS rule)

Big Bopper · 04-19-2002, 04:23 PM

Don't be sad PRKWUD I believe you!

I tried the napkin trick it worked! But....the mark on the harmonic balencer was no where close to the timing marks,...(when the tissue popped out)

But when I matched the spot on the harmonic balancer with the pointer, the rotor pointed to the #1 plug terminal. I have not messed with engine ie;timing chain,valves or anything else that would cause it to be out. ? .so I'm kinda confused

I still can't get her to fire! I thought it was the timing forshure, but I had it right . ( I think?) I did what PKRWUD said.
Will a weak ground between the coil braket and the inner fender cause a weak spark? I can see spark, but I don't know if it's strong enough to flash the motor up? Also the ground wire that comes from the battery that grounds to the inner fender gets pretty hot after cranking (3-5 seconds) Does that mean that It's a bad ground?

Thanks for all your help guys. Any input would be great. I have a feeling that it's something that I'm overlooking!

PKRWUD · 04-20-2002, 03:22 AM

When the tissue pops out, the timing mark on the balancer should be within an inch or two of the pointer. If it was more than that, it's possible that you have a bad balancer. BUT, if your timing was even close, you would at least get a backfire.

Do the tissue thing again, but when it pops out, insert a long pencil into the spark plug hole, so that the eraser end rests on the top of the piston. Check your timing marks, and rotate the engine, by hand (from the crank bolt), while watching the pencil. It will rise at first, then stop, then it will start to go down. You want to get it to the point where it no longer goes up any more, but hasn't started to go down yet. This is your true TDC point. The Timing marks should be at zero degrees. If they're not, then the balancer is damaged, and must be replaced. If the marks are correct, remove the pencil, and rotate the engine backwards until the marks are aligned at 10 degrees BTDC (just barely nudge it). Now verify that the rotor is pointing at the number one spark plug wire on the cap. If this all checks out, then you do have another problem.

Also, just to clarify, your number one cylinder (where you should be testing for TDC) is the forward most cylinder on the passenger side.

As far as your ground wire, try cleaning the connections. If that doesn't correct that problem, remove some of the warm wire's insulation, and flex the wire. If any "dust" falls out when you flex the wire, it's bad, and must be replaced.

Take care,
-Chris

04-19-2002, 12:53 AM	#2
The Jester Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: gibsons bc canada Posts: 4	I think i know how its done.. Hey bopper, Everyones going to stone me for this but.. Im sure it would work the same way as setting up the dist. on a Chev (Gasp). Take out the #1 plug and insert a drift into the plug hole (we'll make sure it won't fall into your motor), then you turn the engine over by hand untill your at TDC on the #1 hole, insert your distributor so that the rotor is pointing to the #1 wire.. That should do it.. So... time for a 4:20?.

04-19-2002, 12:56 AM	#3
Coupe5oh Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: SanAntonio, Tx Posts: 734	you should have marked it, but its alright, once you get it stabbed in, make sure the #1 mark is around where it normally would be, you dont want to be off too much or it wont start, tighten it enought so you can turn it, have someone crank while you turn it, be careful as always, and hit it with a timing light while its being cranked if it doesnt start. __________________ Police package 5spd 90 Lx, Stock original motor, 3.27grs, BM fan, fms 10.5 clutch, D&D quadrant, and adjuster, ADS chip, 180 stat, mac cai, mac h-pipe, mac subframe connectors, ASP crank pulley, ripper shifter, 26x10.5 M/T sport pros welds. 246 hp according to analyzer Race weight: 3,120 E.t-13.57 with 26x10.50's e.t. streets. 1.88 60' mph- 99.92 mph

04-19-2002, 08:19 AM	#4
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	jester's on the money, but a wadded up paper napkin stuffed into the spark plug hole works better, IMO (it will pop out when you reach TDC). Take care, -Chris __________________ Webmaster: Rice Haters Club Jim Porter Racing Peckerwoods Pit Stop Support Your Local RED & WHITE!

04-19-2002, 10:25 AM	#5
Conman Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Kingston, Ontario Posts: 351	one more thing if you have no idea where it is now you should also take off the valve cover and make sure both valves are closed at TDC (compression stroke) and then like Jester said point the distibutor to #1 __________________ '88 lx, Black on Black, check it out here Spent all my money on school, what a dumb mistake I'm old enough to know better, but still too young to care.

04-19-2002, 11:55 AM	#6
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	That's why I said to put a napkin in the spark plug hole. It will only pop out if the valves are closed. You'll be at TDC on the compression stroke. No one believes me anymore. Take care, -Chris __________________ Webmaster: Rice Haters Club Jim Porter Racing Peckerwoods Pit Stop Support Your Local RED & WHITE!

04-19-2002, 12:37 AM	#1
Big Bopper Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Sechelt, B.C., Canada Posts: 200	I'm a bonehead!!!! O.K. Guys ...Don't laugh at me to bad..... I can't figure out how to set up my distributor I took it out when doing other things. Now my car won't start, this is the only thing it can be ... Can someone explain in really easy terms how to put it back in so my car will start? I know how to set the timing and stuff, but this makes me feel really stupid (I turned the motor over by hand when the distributor was out) Thanks eh! Big Bopper. __________________ 90' GT Drop-top, 88' 302,pulleys,full flowmasters (turndowns),Ported stock Intakes,twin flex-a-lites,Pro-5.0,3.55's,short belt,elctric water pump,timing bumped,taylor leads.(headers soon!)

04-19-2002, 12:37 PM	#7
shadowblue89 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 1999 Location: Las Vegas NV Posts: 286	Hey Chris thats a great idea. I will have to remember that one next time i have to pull mine out. (MACS rule) __________________ Charlie 89 GT 5spd

04-19-2002, 04:23 PM	#8
Big Bopper Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Sechelt, B.C., Canada Posts: 200	Don't be sad PRKWUD I believe you! I tried the napkin trick it worked! But....the mark on the harmonic balencer was no where close to the timing marks,...(when the tissue popped out) But when I matched the spot on the harmonic balancer with the pointer, the rotor pointed to the #1 plug terminal. I have not messed with engine ie;timing chain,valves or anything else that would cause it to be out. ? .so I'm kinda confused I still can't get her to fire! I thought it was the timing forshure, but I had it right . ( I think?) I did what PKRWUD said. Will a weak ground between the coil braket and the inner fender cause a weak spark? I can see spark, but I don't know if it's strong enough to flash the motor up? Also the ground wire that comes from the battery that grounds to the inner fender gets pretty hot after cranking (3-5 seconds) Does that mean that It's a bad ground? Thanks for all your help guys. Any input would be great. I have a feeling that it's something that I'm overlooking! __________________ 90' GT Drop-top, 88' 302,pulleys,full flowmasters (turndowns),Ported stock Intakes,twin flex-a-lites,Pro-5.0,3.55's,short belt,elctric water pump,timing bumped,taylor leads.(headers soon!)

04-20-2002, 03:22 AM	#9
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	When the tissue pops out, the timing mark on the balancer should be within an inch or two of the pointer. If it was more than that, it's possible that you have a bad balancer. BUT, if your timing was even close, you would at least get a backfire. Do the tissue thing again, but when it pops out, insert a long pencil into the spark plug hole, so that the eraser end rests on the top of the piston. Check your timing marks, and rotate the engine, by hand (from the crank bolt), while watching the pencil. It will rise at first, then stop, then it will start to go down. You want to get it to the point where it no longer goes up any more, but hasn't started to go down yet. This is your true TDC point. The Timing marks should be at zero degrees. If they're not, then the balancer is damaged, and must be replaced. If the marks are correct, remove the pencil, and rotate the engine backwards until the marks are aligned at 10 degrees BTDC (just barely nudge it). Now verify that the rotor is pointing at the number one spark plug wire on the cap. If this all checks out, then you do have another problem. Also, just to clarify, your number one cylinder (where you should be testing for TDC) is the forward most cylinder on the passenger side. As far as your ground wire, try cleaning the connections. If that doesn't correct that problem, remove some of the warm wire's insulation, and flex the wire. If any "dust" falls out when you flex the wire, it's bad, and must be replaced. Take care, -Chris __________________ Webmaster: Rice Haters Club Jim Porter Racing Peckerwoods Pit Stop Support Your Local RED & WHITE!

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