Up to 92 starter V.S. 93 starter

MattwantsSpeed · 07-11-2002, 10:56 PM

I was checking prices at Autozone and noticed the starter for my 89 is $50 and one for a 93 which is a gear reduction/high torque starter is $90. Is the the extra $40 worth it? And will the 93 bolt right up to mine?

Stang_ROTY · 07-12-2002, 06:09 PM

I think it was worth the $$. And it will bolt up. It's especially worth it if you have a higher compression engine.

82 GT · 07-12-2002, 10:29 PM

It's well worth the extra money. I even works on my 351w

Stang_ROTY · 07-12-2002, 10:38 PM

82GT,

Do you ever have a hard time with your starter if you try to start it right after you shut it down?? I just bought one of the starters MattwantsSpeed is talking about 2 months ago when I first dropped the engine in. I noticed that it strains a bit when the engine is real hot. This ever happen to you??

Quote:

Originally posted by 82 GT
It's well worth the extra money. I even works on my 351w

82 GT · 07-12-2002, 10:44 PM

When I had that big bulky starter, it used to do that to me all the time. It hasn't done it since I replaced it with the mini unit.
I have shorty headers and 2.5inch exhaust on my 351 and it passed really close to the starter and had a hard time starting when it got hot. The smaller starter gave me more clearance and hasn't gave me any problems yet.
You have to switch some wires around at the selenoid for the newer starter to work right. It's easy though.

Stang_ROTY · 07-13-2002, 09:04 AM

82GT,

I notice that you have a C$ bolted up to your 351. How do you like it?? Is yours a fully auto valve body or do you shift? Where's you stall speed? I'm just curious cause your the first guy I've met with a combo close to mine.

jrgoffin · 07-13-2002, 10:43 PM

The '92-up starter WILL bolt right up, but wiring it correctly is a different story. You need to run the power cable to the starter directly from the hot side of the solenoid and then run a trigger wire to the starter (has it's own solenoid) from where the power lead from your old starter used to be. Or you can just buy the '92 cable (that's what I did - I like the OEM stuff) if you can find it!

82 GT · 07-14-2002, 10:53 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by jrgoffin
Or you can just buy the '92 cable (that's what I did - I like the OEM stuff) if you can find it!

It's a lot quicker and to just re-wire it. It's not that hard at all.
A 5 minute job.

jrgoffin · 07-14-2002, 11:29 AM

Yeah, it's easy to re-wire, I needed a new cable anyway!

tarmon8r · 07-14-2002, 07:10 PM

man i am glad i read this thread, cause my starter is poo-poo platter. guess i am going to get one of those starters now. thanx for the freat 411. save me from buying a starter from summitt.

07-11-2002, 10:56 PM	#1
MattwantsSpeed Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Lakeland, Fl Posts: 224	Up to 92 starter V.S. 93 starter I was checking prices at Autozone and noticed the starter for my 89 is $50 and one for a 93 which is a gear reduction/high torque starter is $90. Is the the extra $40 worth it? And will the 93 bolt right up to mine? __________________ 89 LX Hatch 5.0 5spd, alot of miles, terrible 2.73's, mac cai, pullies, Tri-Ax, 16* timing, elect fan, 3G alt Best to date: 14.331@97.46mph with 14*/stock fan/short belt and a 2.222 60' in 90 degree weather Waiting to put on Off road H and 1 5/8 headers Rice Hater's Club #36

07-12-2002, 06:09 PM	#2
Stang_ROTY Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Berkshire County - Massachusetts Posts: 735	I think it was worth the $$. And it will bolt up. It's especially worth it if you have a higher compression engine. __________________ Red 1993 GT Street Machine Best E.T. - 12.41/Best MPH = 108 Engine is a 1969 351 block w/393 stroker kit. Dynamic Roller Myte C4, 8 pt cage. Edlebrock Performer heads and Victor Jr. EFI, FRPP 30lb injectors & Cartech fuel system. MSD ignition. Sothside Machine bars & Sub-frames, adj. upper's, 3.73's, Koni rear shocks, much more

07-12-2002, 10:29 PM	#3
82 GT Import Slayer Join Date: May 1999 Posts: 2,241	It's well worth the extra money. I even works on my 351w __________________ '82 GT 351W (.060)Comp Cams 274* Extreme Energy cam, ported & polished heads w/ 1.94/1.60 valves 10.3:1 flat top pistons,stealth intake, Mallory dizzy,Holley 750dp carb, BBK shorties,Flowmaster exhaust,C-4 with 3700 stall converter, B&M pro shifter,8.8 rear, 4:10's, subframes, electric fan, powermaster alternator, 4 core radiator.

07-12-2002, 10:44 PM	#5
82 GT Import Slayer Join Date: May 1999 Posts: 2,241	When I had that big bulky starter, it used to do that to me all the time. It hasn't done it since I replaced it with the mini unit. I have shorty headers and 2.5inch exhaust on my 351 and it passed really close to the starter and had a hard time starting when it got hot. The smaller starter gave me more clearance and hasn't gave me any problems yet. You have to switch some wires around at the selenoid for the newer starter to work right. It's easy though. __________________ '82 GT 351W (.060)Comp Cams 274* Extreme Energy cam, ported & polished heads w/ 1.94/1.60 valves 10.3:1 flat top pistons,stealth intake, Mallory dizzy,Holley 750dp carb, BBK shorties,Flowmaster exhaust,C-4 with 3700 stall converter, B&M pro shifter,8.8 rear, 4:10's, subframes, electric fan, powermaster alternator, 4 core radiator.

07-13-2002, 09:04 AM	#6
Stang_ROTY Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Berkshire County - Massachusetts Posts: 735	82GT, I notice that you have a C$ bolted up to your 351. How do you like it?? Is yours a fully auto valve body or do you shift? Where's you stall speed? I'm just curious cause your the first guy I've met with a combo close to mine. __________________ Red 1993 GT Street Machine Best E.T. - 12.41/Best MPH = 108 Engine is a 1969 351 block w/393 stroker kit. Dynamic Roller Myte C4, 8 pt cage. Edlebrock Performer heads and Victor Jr. EFI, FRPP 30lb injectors & Cartech fuel system. MSD ignition. Sothside Machine bars & Sub-frames, adj. upper's, 3.73's, Koni rear shocks, much more

07-13-2002, 10:43 PM	#7
jrgoffin Registered Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: The Midwest Posts: 79	The '92-up starter WILL bolt right up, but wiring it correctly is a different story. You need to run the power cable to the starter directly from the hot side of the solenoid and then run a trigger wire to the starter (has it's own solenoid) from where the power lead from your old starter used to be. Or you can just buy the '92 cable (that's what I did - I like the OEM stuff) if you can find it! __________________ '90 LX Too many mods... Rear-Disc tech

07-14-2002, 11:29 AM	#9
jrgoffin Registered Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: The Midwest Posts: 79	Yeah, it's easy to re-wire, I needed a new cable anyway! __________________ '90 LX Too many mods... Rear-Disc tech

07-14-2002, 07:10 PM	#10
tarmon8r Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: manassas, va Posts: 186	man i am glad i read this thread, cause my starter is poo-poo platter. guess i am going to get one of those starters now. thanx for the freat 411. save me from buying a starter from summitt. __________________ 1983 mustang, 393 cubic inch stroker small block, victor jr heads and intake, gold race 1.6 roller rockers. comp cam 304, 244@ .050. .576" hydralic retro roller cam,lunati rods. block was o-ringed,10:1 forged pistons, speed pro fit fit rings, clevite bearings,msd distributor and igniton,be cool huge radiator, black lite electric fan, march underdrive pulleys, mildon deep sump oil pan, mac 1 3.4" long tube headers, 3" dr gas x-pipe and mac exhaust,ARP bolts. car weighs 2900 lbs w/out driver, sub frames, weld wheels, mickey thompson sportsman pro 26 x 10.5 x 15's,#8 fuel line steel braided

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