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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Sechelt, B.C., Canada
Posts: 200
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![]() I'm new to the head game and I don't know how to put my pushrods back in ????????.., Can someone help me out there?
Thanks Eh! Big Bopper.
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90' GT Drop-top, 88' 302,pulleys,full flowmasters (turndowns),Ported stock Intakes,twin flex-a-lites,Pro-5.0,3.55's,short belt,elctric water pump,timing bumped,taylor leads.(headers soon!) |
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#2 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Ventura, California
Posts: 8,981
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![]() I have no idea what you've done, or why you're asking this, but i'll take a stab at it. First, clean them with CRC Brakleen (green can), and blow them out with compressed air. Next, lay them flat on a piece of glass, and roll them to verify they aren't bent. Then, insert them back to their original locations. Next, andjust the valves. The easiest way is to:
1) Install one rocker arm at a time. Install all 16, and snug down the bolts by hand. 2) Rotate the engine until the balancer reads TDC on the compression stroke. 3) Check the rotor in the distributor, and verify that it is pointing at the #1 wire on the cap. If it's not, rotate the engine 360 degrees. 4) With a 1/4" drive ratchet, tighten the following rockers until you can no longer rotate the pushrod: Cylinder #1 intake and exhaust, Cylinder #3 exhaust, Cylinder #4 intake, Cylinder #7 exhaust, Cylinder #8 intake. 5) Now torque each of those to 20 ft.lbs. 6) Rotate the engine 360 degrees, so the balancer reads TDC again. 7) With a 1/4" ratchet, tighten these rockers (again, to zero lash): Cylinder #3 intake, Cylinder #2 exhaust, Cylinder #7 intake, Cylinder #6 exhaust. 8) Now torque each of those to 20 ft.lbs. 9) Rotate the engine 90 degrees, and with the ratchet, tighten to zero lash on these rockers: Cylinder #2 intake Cylinder #4 exhaust Cylinder #5 intake and exhaust Cylinder #6 intake Cylinder #8 exhaust 10) Now torque each of those to 20 ft.lbs. ***If it takes more than a full turn to reach 20 ft.lbs. torque, after you have reached zero lash, you're gonna need shims. Hope this helps. ![]() Take care, ~Chris
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Webmaster: Rice Haters Club Jim Porter Racing Peckerwoods Pit Stop Support Your Local
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#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Sechelt, B.C., Canada
Posts: 200
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![]() PKRWUD, Thanks for the tips.....the reason I'm doing this is my head gasket packed it in. I didn't have the money to have a shop do it so I'm trying to do it myself...I had the heads checked out and put new gaskets in and put the heads back on the car, now I just have to put the push rods in and I'm in business...,right?..
Just one dumb quest. which one is my intake valve? and which one is my exhaust valve? Thanks for all your help eh! , it was a life saver! Big Bopper.
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90' GT Drop-top, 88' 302,pulleys,full flowmasters (turndowns),Ported stock Intakes,twin flex-a-lites,Pro-5.0,3.55's,short belt,elctric water pump,timing bumped,taylor leads.(headers soon!) |
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#4 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Ventura, California
Posts: 8,981
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![]() From the front going back, the valves are:
Drivers side: E I E I E I E I Passenger side: I E I E I E I E In other words: ___________ I E I E I E I E <---FRONT E I E I E I E I Take care, ~Chris
__________________
Webmaster: Rice Haters Club Jim Porter Racing Peckerwoods Pit Stop Support Your Local
RED & WHITE! |
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#5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 1999
Location: Georgia
Posts: 3,866
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![]() another tip for you...the valve that leads to the exhaust manifold would be your exhaust valve, and the valve that is in line with the intake manifold port would be the intake valve. very simple to determine and you dont need a list to look at .
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