Codes me too

Just me · 07-27-2002, 07:41 PM

If you already read this in my other post just ignore it.

Alright. I tried the check engine light test and these are the codes I get:
11=System checks OK.

33=EGR did not open / respond during test or if memory code, did not open intermittently - EVP EVR PFE.

87=Fuel pump circuit fault (check enertia switch)- Power / Fuel Pump Circuits.

91=System running lean- Fuel control

96=Fuel pump monitor circuit shows no power- Power / Fuel Pump circuits.

Oddly enough the car has been running fine for today but I don't trust it. I don't understand why I would get the fuel pump errors if the car doesn't shut off while driving. It would only sputter really bad for 20 seconds or so then it would feel rich. My fuel pressure needle vibrates alot and it never used to before.
Any help what to look for using these codes? Thanks

PKRWUD · 07-27-2002, 08:20 PM

Where these codes running or continuous?

Just me · 07-28-2002, 04:07 AM

The engine was off and the ignition on. The codes were constant with the longest pause bettween the last code and the first code.
I didn't reset the memory

PKRWUD · 07-28-2002, 05:08 AM

Okay, you need to access the fuel pump relay. When you get to it, remove it. Then, with a DMM set to ohms on the 200 scale, measure the resistance between the terminal in the harness where the Pink/black wires come together, and ground. Make sure it's an excellent ground connection. If resistance is less than 10 ohms, the ECM is bad. If resistance is greater than 10 ohms, replace the fuel pump relay, making sure the terminals are all clean at the connector, and then inspect the fuel pump ground connection. If it proves to be good, then there is a fault inside the pump itself.

You also need to inspect the vacuum hose going to the EGR valve, and make sure it isn't cracked or leaking. If it looks good, leave it disconnected, and attach a vacuum pump to the EGR. Apply 20" of vacuum to the EGR. If the valve opens and holds vacuum, inspect the wiring at the EVR solenoid. If the EGR does not open, or does not hold vacuum, replace it, and make sure the passage is clear.

Disconnect the negative battery cable, and turn on the headlight switch for 5 minutes. Shut the switch off, and reconnect the neg battery cable.

Run KOEO codes, and when it passes, run KOER codes. It should pass. If code 91 returns, let me know.

Take care,
~Chris

Just me · 07-28-2002, 11:45 AM

WOW. Dude, I'll get right on it today and let you know. Thanks.

Just me · 07-28-2002, 05:07 PM

I printed out your directions and tried the test. I disconnected
the negative battery cable, turned on the lights and waited 5 minutes then reversing. The fuel relay connector test came through with 11.1. The first test with the engine on showed only 11's and nothing else. I know the test was working cause the motor was reving up for a bit then coming down to an idle. Great! The second test(engine off) Showed 11 and 41, so I increased the FPR to 42 PSI and ran the test again. No more problems detected at all, just the 11. I took the car for a spin and I realized for the first time the power all my mods make. WOW!
The tires were breaking lose at the top of 2nd and 3rd gear and my rockers seem very quiet. Its like I have a blower engaging at high RPM's All you hear under the hood is air being sucked and long tubes accenting my cam. OH YEEEAAA! A million thanks. You solved a problem that plagued me for two years. Now I think I got my money's worth. Thank you again again and again.

Just me
91'lx, 302 block, crank pulley, no smog, short belt, Wolverine 1087 cam, 15 deg timing, TFS TW heads, motorsport 1.6 3/8 stud RR, ARP studs, TFS chrome hardened push rods, 24lb inj, BBK 255lph fuel pump, Areomotive billet adj FPR, Performer RPM intake(ported to 75mm), 1" spacer, Motorsport polished tall valve covers(love em), Pro-M 77, Acufab 75mm TB, Ford idle air bypass valve, K&N conical, MSD 6AL and coil, 9mm MS cables, NGK bkr5e 11 plugs@55, motorsport 3 core radiator,160 thermostat, Hurst short throw, motorsport 410 gears, aluminum drive shaft,Kenny brown Subs, Mac 1 3/4"Long tube, custom 3"off road xpipe, 2 chamber Flow Masters, 3 1/2" tailpipes HAL tubular K-member, KYB struts and shocks, Eibach springs, Steeda 2.5" Cowl, Steeda rear wing, black Dupont centari acrylic enamel paint.

PKRWUD · 07-28-2002, 11:36 PM

Buy me a Coke sometime.

Take care,
~Chris

Just me · 07-28-2002, 11:49 PM

Sure thing. Thanks again.

PKRWUD · 07-29-2002, 12:06 AM

07-27-2002, 07:41 PM	#1
Just me Registered Member Join Date: Nov 1998 Location: Miami,Florida Posts: 159	Codes me too If you already read this in my other post just ignore it. Alright. I tried the check engine light test and these are the codes I get: 11=System checks OK. 33=EGR did not open / respond during test or if memory code, did not open intermittently - EVP EVR PFE. 87=Fuel pump circuit fault (check enertia switch)- Power / Fuel Pump Circuits. 91=System running lean- Fuel control 96=Fuel pump monitor circuit shows no power- Power / Fuel Pump circuits. Oddly enough the car has been running fine for today but I don't trust it. I don't understand why I would get the fuel pump errors if the car doesn't shut off while driving. It would only sputter really bad for 20 seconds or so then it would feel rich. My fuel pressure needle vibrates alot and it never used to before. Any help what to look for using these codes? Thanks

07-27-2002, 08:20 PM	#2
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	Where these codes running or continuous? __________________ Webmaster: Rice Haters Club Jim Porter Racing Peckerwoods Pit Stop Support Your Local RED & WHITE!

07-28-2002, 05:08 AM	#4
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	Okay, you need to access the fuel pump relay. When you get to it, remove it. Then, with a DMM set to ohms on the 200 scale, measure the resistance between the terminal in the harness where the Pink/black wires come together, and ground. Make sure it's an excellent ground connection. If resistance is less than 10 ohms, the ECM is bad. If resistance is greater than 10 ohms, replace the fuel pump relay, making sure the terminals are all clean at the connector, and then inspect the fuel pump ground connection. If it proves to be good, then there is a fault inside the pump itself. You also need to inspect the vacuum hose going to the EGR valve, and make sure it isn't cracked or leaking. If it looks good, leave it disconnected, and attach a vacuum pump to the EGR. Apply 20" of vacuum to the EGR. If the valve opens and holds vacuum, inspect the wiring at the EVR solenoid. If the EGR does not open, or does not hold vacuum, replace it, and make sure the passage is clear. Disconnect the negative battery cable, and turn on the headlight switch for 5 minutes. Shut the switch off, and reconnect the neg battery cable. Run KOEO codes, and when it passes, run KOER codes. It should pass. If code 91 returns, let me know. Take care, ~Chris __________________ Webmaster: Rice Haters Club Jim Porter Racing Peckerwoods Pit Stop Support Your Local RED & WHITE!

07-28-2002, 11:36 PM	#7
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	Buy me a Coke sometime. Take care, ~Chris __________________ Webmaster: Rice Haters Club Jim Porter Racing Peckerwoods Pit Stop Support Your Local RED & WHITE!

07-29-2002, 12:06 AM	#9
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	__________________ Webmaster: Rice Haters Club Jim Porter Racing Peckerwoods Pit Stop Support Your Local RED & WHITE!

07-28-2002, 04:07 AM	#3
Just me Registered Member Join Date: Nov 1998 Location: Miami,Florida Posts: 159	The engine was off and the ignition on. The codes were constant with the longest pause bettween the last code and the first code. I didn't reset the memory

07-28-2002, 11:45 AM	#5
Just me Registered Member Join Date: Nov 1998 Location: Miami,Florida Posts: 159	WOW. Dude, I'll get right on it today and let you know. Thanks.

07-28-2002, 05:07 PM	#6
Just me Registered Member Join Date: Nov 1998 Location: Miami,Florida Posts: 159	I printed out your directions and tried the test. I disconnected the negative battery cable, turned on the lights and waited 5 minutes then reversing. The fuel relay connector test came through with 11.1. The first test with the engine on showed only 11's and nothing else. I know the test was working cause the motor was reving up for a bit then coming down to an idle. Great! The second test(engine off) Showed 11 and 41, so I increased the FPR to 42 PSI and ran the test again. No more problems detected at all, just the 11. I took the car for a spin and I realized for the first time the power all my mods make. WOW! The tires were breaking lose at the top of 2nd and 3rd gear and my rockers seem very quiet. Its like I have a blower engaging at high RPM's All you hear under the hood is air being sucked and long tubes accenting my cam. OH YEEEAAA! A million thanks. You solved a problem that plagued me for two years. Now I think I got my money's worth. Thank you again again and again. Just me 91'lx, 302 block, crank pulley, no smog, short belt, Wolverine 1087 cam, 15 deg timing, TFS TW heads, motorsport 1.6 3/8 stud RR, ARP studs, TFS chrome hardened push rods, 24lb inj, BBK 255lph fuel pump, Areomotive billet adj FPR, Performer RPM intake(ported to 75mm), 1" spacer, Motorsport polished tall valve covers(love em), Pro-M 77, Acufab 75mm TB, Ford idle air bypass valve, K&N conical, MSD 6AL and coil, 9mm MS cables, NGK bkr5e 11 plugs@55, motorsport 3 core radiator,160 thermostat, Hurst short throw, motorsport 410 gears, aluminum drive shaft,Kenny brown Subs, Mac 1 3/4"Long tube, custom 3"off road xpipe, 2 chamber Flow Masters, 3 1/2" tailpipes HAL tubular K-member, KYB struts and shocks, Eibach springs, Steeda 2.5" Cowl, Steeda rear wing, black Dupont centari acrylic enamel paint.

07-28-2002, 11:49 PM	#8
Just me Registered Member Join Date: Nov 1998 Location: Miami,Florida Posts: 159	Sure thing. Thanks again.

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