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07-29-2002, 06:20 AM | #1 |
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Join Date: May 1999
Location: Hanover, PA
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Stumped with cooling issues...please help
Well I have a Ron Davis Radiator, 180 thermo and a Stewart High Flow water pump, 16" Perma Cool fan, no A/C so the radiator see's all the air. 100% water with a rust inhibitor..
Crusing through town or low rpm my car gets hot 200+ degress once I get going down the road it cools down, so I know the radiator is fine, the flow in it is great. I was at the track and when I left the line my car was at 200 degrees, on the N20 I was trapping at 224 degrees. I was told by Stewart that I can spin this pump either way since the design of their impeller is different that a stock piece. Well I tired that over the weekend with minimal changes, it runs a tad cooler. I have no heat in the car so the water goes through nothing but the motor and the radiator, should I go back to a 195 thermo like a stock piece. I thought I was having belt wrap issues due to this March tensioner set-up, but now I have almost 4" of wrap and it still doesn't run nice and cool like it should. Any ideas?
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07-29-2002, 06:53 AM | #2 |
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I was having the same problem with a perma cool fan. I went to the stock fan set up and have no more problems. I had forgot how much air a stock fan could move. Feels like a small tornado under the hood.
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07-29-2002, 09:26 AM | #3 |
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Talked with Jack Wilson at Stewart he told me my problem is my Crank pulley is smaller then my water pump so I am under driving the pump, he said there is no benefit in this. Told me you need 10-35% ratio difference between the water pump and crank to be efficient, if I swap pullies it should solve all my problems. You need to under drive the pump when you see a constant 7000rpm to keep it from cavitating, they do this on the Nascar pumps they provide.
I have no idea where my stock pullies are, guess I need to see if I can find a set of stock pullies.
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07-29-2002, 09:52 AM | #4 |
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: St. Louis, MO
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I can't believe that nobody has mentioned the obvious....100% water? Why no ethylene glycol?
Antifreeze/Coolant raises the waters ability to store heat, thus reducing temperature and boiling point. Try a conservative 70/30 mix of water to coolant. Underdriven pulleys get blamed for cooling problems more often than they should, and of course the water pump manufacturer wants you to spin their pump as fast as you can. Also, if you're fan is less than 18" diameter, and you have any serious engine mods, you are simply not getting enough air! Notice how the car cools once you get down the road? That's because it's moving more air!!! Don't put the power-sucking factory fan back on this car. Simply upgrade to a larger fan, or try installing a 'pusher ' fan on the opposite side of your radiator. I have had these cars going 12's with the stock cooling system. There is no reason to have cooling problems, period.
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07-29-2002, 10:06 AM | #5 |
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Actually water is the best coolant available, have been told this for years...at the track you are not supossed the run Anti-freeze, it makes clean up a pain if any were to spill and is very slick if it gets on your tires. I have tried a 70/30 mix and it doesn't help at all, tried the magic additives as well, Water Wetter, etc...
Here's a quote right from Stewarts Website.. Tech Tip #4 - Coolant, Fans, and Hoses Coolant UNEQUIVOCALLY WATER IS THE BEST COOLANT! We recommend using a corrosion inhibitor comparable to Prestone Super Anti-Rust when using pure water. If freezing is a concern, use the minimum amount of antifreeze required for your climate. Stewart Components has extensively tested all of the popular "magic" cooling system additives, and found that none work better than water. In fact, some additives have been found to swell the water pumps seals and contribute to pump failures. In static cooling situations, such as quenching metal during heat treating, softening agents (sometimes referred to as water wetting agents) will allow the water to cool the quenched part more evenly and quickly. The part will cool quicker, and the water will heat up faster. However, an automotive cooling system is not static. In fact, the velocities inside a cooling system are comparable to a fire hose forcing coolant against the walls of the engine's water jackets. If the softening agents actually aided in cooling the engine, the temperature of the coolant as it exited the engine would have to be higher because it would have absorbed more heat. Fans Electric fans have improved tremendously in recent years, in both quality and reliability. Electric fans now outperform mechanical fans in nearly every application, except towing and dirt oval track racing. When using a mechanical fan, a properly designed shroud must be used. Most mechanical fans are not designed for high RPM use: they can have serious vibrations problems, due to air turbulence, when run over 6,500 RPM. This is a turbulence problem, not a balance problem, and will destroy the water pump and components in front of it. The large fans preferred by dirt oval track racers can consume up to 18 horsepower at 6,500 RPM. Do NOT run a mechanical fan that is any larger than required for the application. Flex fans are a poor design for performance applications. They move less air at higher RPM, and only consume a fraction less power than standard fixed pitch fans. Clutch-style fans are inconsistent and we do not recommend their use for any application, if possible. |
07-29-2002, 11:10 PM | #6 | ||
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