AAARGH!

dinomite · 05-27-2001, 08:35 PM

I went in and replaced the water pump today, and put it all back together, and there was a massive leak from the bottom of the thermostat housing! AAACK! So i grabbed a wrench, and took about 10min to tighten the f*cking bottom nut a little more (HARD AS HELL!) and that made it leak a lot less, but its still leaking. I'm gonna see if i can get a new gasket tomorrow, and i'll tkae it off and put some more of the gasket tar stuff on, and re-assemble. Anything else i can do? How can i get to the bolt easier?

My chiltons manual says that i *might* have to take of the distributor, i've never don that before, How would i do it? The manual says that i need to first put #1 at TDC, and then mark the dist. and crank (harmonic ballancer?) and then take off the cap and rotor. I have no idea how to do that, never done it. Also, if i did that, would it really help? It looks like the base of the distro would still be in the way.

HELP!

jimberg · 05-27-2001, 09:14 PM

Chiltons if overcomplicating that. As long as you're doing nothing to move the crank, just mark the block and base of the distributor with a Sharpie and mark where the rotor is situated in relation to the body of the distributor. When you put it back in, just make sure the marks line up. Set your timing afterward.

Oh, stuff a towel in the distributor hole to keep dirt and coolant out of the block.

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351W 89 Mustang GT Convertible

dinomite · 05-27-2001, 09:59 PM

So if I do take the dist. cap off, I should just put a line straight down it onto the base?

Before i do that, would it even be useful to do so? I think the big hookup of wires thats on the left side of hte distributor would get in the way. This is a 90LX by the way.

jimberg · 05-27-2001, 11:48 PM

You don't have to do anything to take the cap off. I was talking about removing the entire destributor. If you look down at the base of the distributor, you will see a ledge that the little clamp down holds. Mark that ledge and the block with a Sharpie so that you can put it back the same way. Take the cap off and then mark the position of the rotor on the outer plastic housing. Remove the bolt that holds the clamp down and then remove the distributor. Don't lose the clamp down. Put a shop towel or something in the hole you leave behind. This should give you all the room you need.

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351W 89 Mustang GT Convertible

egiap's 5.0 · 05-28-2001, 07:26 AM

If you have a leak at the thermostat housing then I would say your stat slipped out of recessed area in housing. Get a stant gasket that has adheasive backing. Dry of housing put stat and new gasket on housing. Every thing will stay in place. Have had same problem myself once before. Good luck.

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Independent Amsoil dealer. For needs or information about amsoil synthetic products leave a message. Ask about preffered customer program.

dinomite · 05-28-2001, 09:06 AM

Ok, i'll try and find an adhesive gasket, or find some way to keep the thermo in place.

thanks guys

jimberg · 05-28-2001, 11:24 AM

I don't even bother with a gasket. I just use RTV. Just make sure you let it cure a little before you put it on. 10-15 minutes maybe. It sticks to the housing and then expands when you torque it down making a nice seal.

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351W 89 Mustang GT Convertible

Mach 1 · 05-28-2001, 11:40 AM

also, you can try loosening the distributer hold down and rotating the wiring connnector out of your way, which might make enough room without removing it. of course, set your timing when your done

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05-27-2001, 08:35 PM	#1
dinomite The Dude Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Arlington, VA Posts: 1,262	AAARGH! I went in and replaced the water pump today, and put it all back together, and there was a massive leak from the bottom of the thermostat housing! AAACK! So i grabbed a wrench, and took about 10min to tighten the fcking bottom nut a little more (HARD AS HELL!) and that made it leak a lot less, but its still leaking. I'm gonna see if i can get a new gasket tomorrow, and i'll tkae it off and put some more of the gasket tar stuff on, and re-assemble. Anything else i can do? How can i get to the bolt easier? My chiltons manual says that i might* have to take of the distributor, i've never don that before, How would i do it? The manual says that i need to first put #1 at TDC, and then mark the dist. and crank (harmonic ballancer?) and then take off the cap and rotor. I have no idea how to do that, never done it. Also, if i did that, would it really help? It looks like the base of the distro would still be in the way. HELP!

05-27-2001, 09:14 PM	#2
jimberg Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1998 Location: Rogers, MN Posts: 2,089	Chiltons if overcomplicating that. As long as you're doing nothing to move the crank, just mark the block and base of the distributor with a Sharpie and mark where the rotor is situated in relation to the body of the distributor. When you put it back in, just make sure the marks line up. Set your timing afterward. Oh, stuff a towel in the distributor hole to keep dirt and coolant out of the block. ------------------ 351W 89 Mustang GT Convertible

05-27-2001, 09:59 PM	#3
dinomite The Dude Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Arlington, VA Posts: 1,262	So if I do take the dist. cap off, I should just put a line straight down it onto the base? Before i do that, would it even be useful to do so? I think the big hookup of wires thats on the left side of hte distributor would get in the way. This is a 90LX by the way.

05-27-2001, 11:48 PM	#4
jimberg Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1998 Location: Rogers, MN Posts: 2,089	You don't have to do anything to take the cap off. I was talking about removing the entire destributor. If you look down at the base of the distributor, you will see a ledge that the little clamp down holds. Mark that ledge and the block with a Sharpie so that you can put it back the same way. Take the cap off and then mark the position of the rotor on the outer plastic housing. Remove the bolt that holds the clamp down and then remove the distributor. Don't lose the clamp down. Put a shop towel or something in the hole you leave behind. This should give you all the room you need. ------------------ 351W 89 Mustang GT Convertible

05-28-2001, 07:26 AM	#5
egiap's 5.0 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Mansfield, OH. Posts: 113	If you have a leak at the thermostat housing then I would say your stat slipped out of recessed area in housing. Get a stant gasket that has adheasive backing. Dry of housing put stat and new gasket on housing. Every thing will stay in place. Have had same problem myself once before. Good luck. ------------------ Independent Amsoil dealer. For needs or information about amsoil synthetic products leave a message. Ask about preffered customer program.

05-28-2001, 09:06 AM	#6
dinomite The Dude Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Arlington, VA Posts: 1,262	Ok, i'll try and find an adhesive gasket, or find some way to keep the thermo in place. thanks guys

05-28-2001, 11:24 AM	#7
jimberg Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1998 Location: Rogers, MN Posts: 2,089	I don't even bother with a gasket. I just use RTV. Just make sure you let it cure a little before you put it on. 10-15 minutes maybe. It sticks to the housing and then expands when you torque it down making a nice seal. ------------------ 351W 89 Mustang GT Convertible

05-28-2001, 11:40 AM	#8
Mach 1 Registered Member Join Date: May 1999 Location: Georgia Posts: 3,866	also, you can try loosening the distributer hold down and rotating the wiring connnector out of your way, which might make enough room without removing it. of course, set your timing when your done