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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 13
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![]() I've got the mods in my sig. And my times in the 1/8 (which is the only track in my area) are anywhere from 8.70 to 9.0 depending on traction (my street tires are very worn) Does anyone have any suggestions that may help me improve my times. I'm talking like biggest bang for the buck things like longtube headers and things of that nature. I plan on adding heads and intake later, but must have more $$$ first. Any other mod suggestions that are not intake or heads would be very helpful. I'm mad because i got pulled on by a bolt-on 99 GT.
![]() Les
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1995 Blue GT - Ported GT40P's, Mildly Ported Typhoon Intake, 70mm TB, AFM N4 Cam, U/D Pulleys, 190lph pump, BBK equal lengths, O/R H-pipe, 40 series Flows, AODE to T5 swap, Pro 5.0 shifter, 3.55's, Lakewood 70/30 Drag Struts, Weld Prostars w/skinnies, Cobra front bumper, 96-98 cobra hood... |
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#2 |
347ci of HORSE POWER!!!
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 1,416
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![]() Ok, long tubes would definatly be a good investment. You can also think about upgrading to 24lb injectors. If you do, make sure you get a MAF that is calibrated to it. You can also get a bigger MAF. You can kill two birds with one stone.
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#3 |
Undescribable
Join Date: Sep 1998
Location: Ft Myers Fla
Posts: 1,539
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![]() Get a good Drag Tire!! i Cut half a second off my 1/8 mile time with just tires. i was running mid 9 in 1/8 and first run with tires was .3 better by end of night i was in the 8's. what your 60' time?? m.p.h??
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Rice Haters Club Member #101 |
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#4 |
Conservative Individualist
Join Date: May 1997
Location: Wherever I need to be
Posts: 7,487
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![]() Sticky rear tires, subframe connectors, longtubes - in that order.
You need traction to put your HP to the ground and make it work for you - especially on a 1/8-mile track. Subframes will help a lot and good rubber will really get you out of the hole an down the track a lot faster. The longtubes add HP and torque and will compliment your heads and other mods, nicely but get the traction, first. |
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#5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: Columbia Co, PA
Posts: 303
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![]() For the mods you've got already, I'd go with a 73mm C&L MAF. An adjustable fuel pressure regulator won't do you any good without a chip or a custom computer burn. 94-95 computers just shorten the injector pulse if it sees extra fuel. I put the 73mm on a stock engine and it made a noticable difference. You don't need 24# injectors yet (they won't help you without a chip). A flowed set of 19# would do you good. An MSD-6A and a TFI coil will give you a noticeable improvement, too. Headers would be an awesome improvement. If you're on a tight budget just get a good set of unequal lengths. The cost difference for equals isn't worth the gains for the mods you have. If you can afford longtubes, go for it. I wish I had long tubes. My equals are a major pain in the ***** to work around. Sticky tires are cool as long as you've got the $$$ to replace the weakest links as you destroy them 1-by-1. Probably starting with your T-5 or clutch. Go fast on street tires. Anybody can bolt on a set of slicks and pick up time. If you're building a race car, then by all means order up a set of slicks. But if you're building a street car, stick with your street tires. I prefer the street over the track. Look at all the 11-12 second imports. Guess what those cars do on the street without those 12"wide slicks up front? NOTHING. Feather the gas. It'll come to you, but it takes practice. Got a guy I race with regularly that consistently runs 13.10s at 107 +/- with a T-5 on regular PepBoys lower dollar street tires. Me?? I'm still burning them most of the way through 1st and then breaking loose when I catch 2nd. It's coming to me. Just being patient and practicing. Checkout my car. It's your car with a few more upgrades. I'm still tuning and tweaking. I plan on running at least a 13.5 or 106 on my mismatched street tires and my factory throttle body. As soon as I get tuned to one of those numbers, I'll be calling for a 70mm TB and start tuning again. BTW, 9.106 is the best I've ever got across the 1/8th.
I hope my opinion here doesn't start a war: I don't care what my car will run on slicks. I don't run around town on slicks. Someday I'll put on some slicks, but not 'til the wallet is ready to beef up the rest of the drivetrain. If I ever get around to building a competitive drag car, it'll be built on slicks. Good luck in your quest for speed. E-mail anytime. |
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#6 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 375
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![]() I was just having this debate with myself. I was thinking about rocker arms but realized that i already spin threw first and part of second and now with an extra 75 shot of nitrous theres no way im holding traction. I'm going with a set of upper/lower control arms and traction bars. I mean in an 1/8 mile whoever gets the holeshot is gonna be the first across the line.
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'89 LX 5.0, off-road h pipe, flowmaster muffs, underdrive pulleys, rebuilt WC T-5, King Cobra Clutch, 65mm throttle body, Explorer Upper/GT40 lower, Lakewood Rear Lift Bars. 76mm C&L Mass air w/ inlet pipe, Twisted wedge heads w/ stage 2 port,polish, MAC equal length shorties, Billet AFPR, 255LPH fuel pump, fresh low end w/ 10.5:1 compression. If anyone ever wants to go to Raceway Park in Englishtown New Jersey, give me a shout. RICER HATERS CLUB MEMBER 87! www.ricehatersclub.com |
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