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#1 |
2 Stangs in the Stable
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Baytown, TX
Posts: 1,209
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![]() My car has been acting really strange at idle, see thread "major problems". I changed out the harmonic balancer and it did nothing. About a week after I did that, the car bit the dust. The rpm's started bouncing from about 1000 to 2500 on my way from work, on the freeway at about 65mph. I got to my exit and the engine popped really loud and then died. I walked home and got my truck, and when I got back to it, it cranked fine. I took off and it did the same thing, only it popped about 4 times before dying. Now that is has been sitting, I can crank it and get down the street before it starts acting up. I have changed out the egr and cleaned the idle air bypass valve. One of the codes I pulled out of the car was for the barometric pressure solenoid. I know it is on the passenger side strut tower, but there is about 4 things in a bunch. How do I identify which one is the barometric pressure solenoid? Once I identify it, how do I test it?
Also, when I was changing the balancer, I had a blonde moment and forgot to take out the bolt. While trying to remove it, the crankshaft was rotating back and forth. Could this be part of the problem? If it was, wouldn't I have had the problem immediately? How can I check and see if this is part of the problem? I really miss the power of my car and want to get up and running as soon as possible. All suggestions are appreciated. Thanks. Caymon
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'90 GT Under construction Best E.T. = Fast @ High Speeds - OK So I Lie. So What!!! ![]() ![]() 04 F-150 STX 4.2L 5 spd Rice Haters Club Member #128 |
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#2 |
2 Stangs in the Stable
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Baytown, TX
Posts: 1,209
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![]() I took my mass air meter apart yesterday to look at it, and the filament closer to the throttle body looks coroded, almost like it is fried. The other filament looks fine. When I put it back together, I tried to start it, and it wouldn't start. It gave me a new code 85 Addaptive fuel lean limit reached. I unplugged it and plugged it back in, and now It is still not starting, but that code went away. I pulled the wire off of the coil that goes to the dist, to check for spark and got nothing. I tried my msd coil and the stock coil, both with the same results. How can I check the wires that run to the coil from the harness? I know there is fuel pressure, I pushed in the valve on the fule line and fuel sprayed out. I don't have a guage to check the pressure, but I know there is some. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
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'90 GT Under construction Best E.T. = Fast @ High Speeds - OK So I Lie. So What!!! ![]() ![]() 04 F-150 STX 4.2L 5 spd Rice Haters Club Member #128 |
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#3 |
The Photoshop Guru
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Mecca, Indiana
Posts: 1,419
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![]() I may be mistaken, but that solenoid you are looking for isn't on the passenger side shock tower. I think what you are referring to is on the firewall about the middle of the car. It's a small black box with a vacuum line and a couple wires running to it I believe. A Chilton's manual would show you were it's located.
I had a 90 Mustang 5.0 and I yanked all of that emmisions stuff that you are referring to on the passenger shock tower with all the vacuum lines running to them and never got a single code, so I highly doubt that is your problem. In fact, I yanked the smog pump, the smog tubing and valves, etc, and never had any problems. On the blonde thing, you mean you turned the crank over by hand while trying to remove the balancer? If so, that won't hurt anything. When you pulled the sensor off the Mass Air, did you touch those filaments? If so you probably ruined it.
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Project: 1988 Coupe - EFI 5.8L Twin Turbo with Victor intake, Canfield heads, F303 cam, March aluminum underdrive pulleys, TKO (or T56 if funds permit), PBR twin piston calipers and 13" rotors up front, 94 Cobra rear calipers and 12" rotors on the rear, 3.73's, Griggs K-member, tubular front control arms, torque arm and panhard bar, polished 99 Cobra wheels. "The GR-40 kit installation is now complete, and the humble Fox-chassis car will now out-corner and out-stop a ZR-1 or a Viper, and support massive horsepower additions with perfect balance." Griggs Racing ICQ# 42269241 |
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#4 |
2 Stangs in the Stable
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Baytown, TX
Posts: 1,209
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![]() I didn't touch the filaments in the sensor. I figured since they are measuring the amount of air coming into the engine, the oils from my skin would either ruin it of give it a false reading. That wouldn't have anything to do with not getting any spark from the coil, would it? If not, what do I need to do to figure out why there is none? Thanks.
Caymon
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'90 GT Under construction Best E.T. = Fast @ High Speeds - OK So I Lie. So What!!! ![]() ![]() 04 F-150 STX 4.2L 5 spd Rice Haters Club Member #128 |
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#5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Rochester
Posts: 553
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![]() hey man , I have had the same problems for weeks.. and here is the fix, NEW TFI module( ignition module ), and pick up coil in the distributor.. or just pick up a new aftermarket distributor.. it fixed my issue completely. I had a bad pick up coil in my distributor and my car would run some days and be bad others.. then it died.. Along with those problem my car came up with codes that didn't even have any truth to them.. the ford ECM's are retarded... but definetly get them replaced and you will be beyond happy!
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#6 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Moline Il
Posts: 901
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![]() Definately get that TFI replaced!
Andy
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88 coupe 91 LX NMRA Pure Street 5120 |
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#7 |
2 Stangs in the Stable
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Baytown, TX
Posts: 1,209
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![]() Should I just get an OEM one from the local auto parts store, or can I get an aftermarket performance one? If I buy a MSD distributor, will it come with one, or do I have to buy them seperately? Thanks for the replies.
Caymon
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'90 GT Under construction Best E.T. = Fast @ High Speeds - OK So I Lie. So What!!! ![]() ![]() 04 F-150 STX 4.2L 5 spd Rice Haters Club Member #128 |
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