The day i have been waiting for

drtbiker · 09-08-2002, 11:14 PM

well gues what guys....the motor came finally, anyone have any sugestions with breaking in the motor...oil....rpms.... miles...(1000right?)

thanks a lot guys

Mustang_289 · 09-09-2002, 06:30 AM

What motor did you get?

SlowGT · 09-09-2002, 10:46 AM

Thanks for the burnout advice

I've heard many theories on engine break in. If it were mine, I'd start it up and drive it normal for a day or two. Feel it out and make sure there's no obvious issues. Then I'd work my way to the top of the tach. Hammer it a little bit at a time. By the end of the 4th day, I'll have slammed it as hard as it's ever gonna get slammed. My car is not my daily driver either. Not sure I'd do it that way if she were my regular ride to work.

I'm pretty sure the NMRA big dawgs aren't doing much of a break in. But then again, they rebuild their motors pretty often. I'd guess on an average that a lot of those guys are rebuilding, or at least re-ringing, every 15-20 miles or so. Maybe less than that.

Sorry my advice probably isn't as helpful as your burnout advice will be, but at least you've got another idea to put into your databank.

09-09-2002, 12:42 PM

When breaking in my new motor, I put the car in neutral and brought the rpms up to 2500rpms, held it there for 10-15 minutes. Then I let it idle for a little while, drove it around some that night. I didn't nail it until I got 500 miles on the new motor. Seemed to work for me!

drtbiker · 09-09-2002, 12:49 PM

i got a 302 gt40 long block assem. with aluminum heads, b303 cam.....any other sugestions as to oil...

SlowGT · 09-09-2002, 01:06 PM

Quote:

put the car in neutral and brought the rpms up to 2500rpms, held it there for 10-15 minutes.

I know this is standard break in for a flat tappet cam. I don't think you need to do that 10-20 min run with a roller cam. Hopefully one of the more technically sound members will be on here soon to help us fill in the gaps.

I hope it's not necessary for a roller cam, cause I've never done one that way

SlowGT · 09-09-2002, 01:09 PM

Didn't see the oil question.

IMHO, there is only one oil: Mobil 1 - 100% synthetic. Not sure if that'd be the appropriate oil to use for the initial cranking of a fresh motor though. But then again, there are several new cars coming from the manufacturers with Mobil 1. i.e. Corvette.

VeNuM · 09-09-2002, 01:12 PM

Break the motor in with non-synthetic oil. Change the oil a couple times in the first 1000 miles. After that, then I would use Mobil 1 fully synthetic.

andy669 · 09-09-2002, 01:30 PM

Definately dont break the motor in with synthetic. If you do it will take longer for the rings to seat and can affect how well they seal.

Heres my process: Fill engine with straight 30w. Prime the oil pump before you even turn the key!! Bring engine up to operating temp, then shut it off and change the oil and filter. Put 30w back in. You can switch to synthetic on your next scheduled change.

As far as a break in period goes, I'd give it 100 miles then flog it!

Andy

tireburner163 · 09-10-2002, 09:37 AM

break the motor in with non-synteic oil.

Give her 500 easy miles, change the oil and filter, then your good to go.

bigblockcoupe · 09-10-2002, 10:00 AM

use straight 30 weight as the break in oil there is no reason to let it rev to 2500 for 10 minutes just start it set the timing and top off the coolant let it warm up to make sure the thermostat is opening correctly and check for any leaksturn it off and let it sit for a few minutes then check the oil to make sure it's full then go for a test drive be sure to alter the cruising rpm alot don't stay at one rpm while cruising and every thing should be fine i would drain the 30 wt at 500 miles and put in whatever you will be using from then on.

09-10-2002, 10:35 AM

SlowGT-
"I know this is standard break in for a flat tappet cam. I don't think you need to do that 10-20 min run with a roller cam. Hopefully one of the more technically sound members will be on here soon to help us fill in the gaps."

I had an old school hotrodder helping me some with my motor install...might explain the break in process I did. Worked fine for me. Sorry it wasn't "technically sound" enough for your standards. Just letting a fellow Mustanger know what worked for me. It's already been said, but obviously you wouldn't break in a motor with Mobil-1 synthetic.

SlowGT · 09-10-2002, 10:43 AM

Simi

I wasn't knocking your post. I was simply trying to say that there are people on here who can provide much more technical explanations than I can and that some of them would probably stop by and share their thoughts.

And 'obviously' is right. Just can't figure out why new corvettes come with Mobil 1 from the factory.

peace dude.

09-10-2002, 11:40 AM

SlowGT-

Understood.

Yeah, how about some of the new cars that come with antifreeze and tranny fluid that is good for 100,000 miles! What's going on there?! Like the synthetics in the new Vette...I don't get that either? They must be using nuclear materials. LOL.

Later-

bigblockcoupe · 09-10-2002, 12:21 PM

roller cams require no break in

drtbiker · 09-10-2002, 12:36 PM

hmmmm..... ok just 30w any specific brand?.... so 500mi will be ok right?

bigblockcoupe · 09-10-2002, 01:37 PM

i prefer valvoline 30 wt 500 miles should be plenty of break in some people say 1000 or even 1500 but I have always believed 500 is just right for a roller motor but if you want change the break in oil at 500 and refill with 30wt then change at 1000miles if it will make you feel better just don't take it out and rev the crap out of it before you hit at least 500 miles i'm the worst one about this i have let them run in the shop to warm up and to make sure everything is working right. then I'll take them on a 10-15 mile test drive upon which on several occasions i have gotten into it but i don't recommened this. usually this is the only time i drive the car before it goes back to the owner so i want to make sure it's right.

HotRoddin · 09-10-2002, 11:06 PM

My 2 cents worth

no synthetic until the rings have seated
nothing less than 1500 rpms for the first 10 min .... cams not the only thing in a motor that has to seat.
I think the two most important things for a new motor are don't get on the freeway and drive a constant speed for a long period ...vary your speed ... and DO NOT let it overheat when its brand new !

My first Hot Rod was started, ran at 1500 for about 15 or 20 min then I went out and ran the piss out of it for about 2 hours (teenager at the time no self control

) then drove it from east Texas to California the next morning ... then out ran most everything on the road out here for 5 years ... when i retired it, it was flawless inside.

406 cubic inches ... 3 two barrel holleys .... very reworked 427 medium riser heads ... 4:56's ....god i miss that car

drtbiker · 09-11-2002, 10:10 AM

nice...... alright guys i have to get my butt in gear and get the motor in already.... i have been to busy working and with school i barley have anytime to work on it hopefully ill get out there to day and start working on it......

later guys thanks alot

09-08-2002, 11:14 PM	#1
drtbiker Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Mt. Prospect,IL Posts: 474	The day i have been waiting for well gues what guys....the motor came finally, anyone have any sugestions with breaking in the motor...oil....rpms.... miles...(1000right?) thanks a lot guys __________________ 87-ford-mustang-SOLD! mods: 3:73's, off road h-pipe, b303 cam in gt- 40 motor w/ Power Plus intake, edelbrock 70mm tb & egr spacer, 72mm C&L, bbk long tubes, tremec tranny, centerforce dual friction clutch, upr and lwr CA's 255lph FP and soon more to come.... when i have money again SOME ADVICE Don't do burn outs in reverse it is very expensive New times with dead hook on dr's 13.27@103 with 2.0 60 foots w/100lb system Fastest time to date: 12.8@113

09-09-2002, 10:46 AM	#3
SlowGT Registered Member Join Date: Jun 1999 Location: Columbia Co, PA Posts: 303	Thanks for the burnout advice I've heard many theories on engine break in. If it were mine, I'd start it up and drive it normal for a day or two. Feel it out and make sure there's no obvious issues. Then I'd work my way to the top of the tach. Hammer it a little bit at a time. By the end of the 4th day, I'll have slammed it as hard as it's ever gonna get slammed. My car is not my daily driver either. Not sure I'd do it that way if she were my regular ride to work. I'm pretty sure the NMRA big dawgs aren't doing much of a break in. But then again, they rebuild their motors pretty often. I'd guess on an average that a lot of those guys are rebuilding, or at least re-ringing, every 15-20 miles or so. Maybe less than that. Sorry my advice probably isn't as helpful as your burnout advice will be, but at least you've got another idea to put into your databank. __________________ Old Slow GT New Slow GT--> under construction Latest Addition: 95 Cobra R, #73, bone stock, ~6100 miles.

09-09-2002, 12:42 PM	#4
Simi Stang Guest Posts: n/a	new engine When breaking in my new motor, I put the car in neutral and brought the rpms up to 2500rpms, held it there for 10-15 minutes. Then I let it idle for a little while, drove it around some that night. I didn't nail it until I got 500 miles on the new motor. Seemed to work for me!

09-09-2002, 12:49 PM	#5
drtbiker Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Mt. Prospect,IL Posts: 474	i got a 302 gt40 long block assem. with aluminum heads, b303 cam.....any other sugestions as to oil... __________________ 87-ford-mustang-SOLD! mods: 3:73's, off road h-pipe, b303 cam in gt- 40 motor w/ Power Plus intake, edelbrock 70mm tb & egr spacer, 72mm C&L, bbk long tubes, tremec tranny, centerforce dual friction clutch, upr and lwr CA's 255lph FP and soon more to come.... when i have money again SOME ADVICE Don't do burn outs in reverse it is very expensive New times with dead hook on dr's 13.27@103 with 2.0 60 foots w/100lb system Fastest time to date: 12.8@113

09-09-2002, 01:09 PM	#7
SlowGT Registered Member Join Date: Jun 1999 Location: Columbia Co, PA Posts: 303	Didn't see the oil question. IMHO, there is only one oil: Mobil 1 - 100% synthetic. Not sure if that'd be the appropriate oil to use for the initial cranking of a fresh motor though. But then again, there are several new cars coming from the manufacturers with Mobil 1. i.e. Corvette. __________________ Old Slow GT New Slow GT--> under construction Latest Addition: 95 Cobra R, #73, bone stock, ~6100 miles.

09-09-2002, 06:30 AM	#2
Mustang_289 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Posts: 512	What motor did you get?

09-09-2002, 01:12 PM	#8
VeNuM Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Downers Grove, IL Posts: 464	Break the motor in with non-synthetic oil. Change the oil a couple times in the first 1000 miles. After that, then I would use Mobil 1 fully synthetic. __________________ 1989 Black Mustang GT Hatchback, Underdrive Pulles, Electric Fan, Cold Air Intake, Headers, Offroad H-Pipe, Magnaflow catback, Steeda Tri-Ax, Fluidyne Aluminum Radiator, Timing at 14*, 3.73's Coming not so soon: 408w Ricer Hater's Club Member #59

09-09-2002, 01:30 PM	#9
andy669 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Moline Il Posts: 901	Definately dont break the motor in with synthetic. If you do it will take longer for the rings to seat and can affect how well they seal. Heres my process: Fill engine with straight 30w. Prime the oil pump before you even turn the key!! Bring engine up to operating temp, then shut it off and change the oil and filter. Put 30w back in. You can switch to synthetic on your next scheduled change. As far as a break in period goes, I'd give it 100 miles then flog it! Andy __________________ 88 coupe 91 LX NMRA Pure Street 5120

09-10-2002, 09:37 AM	#10
tireburner163 It's a lot like a race car Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: Meridian, MS Posts: 4,130	break the motor in with non-synteic oil. Give her 500 easy miles, change the oil and filter, then your good to go. __________________ 1987 Buick T-type 1998 HD Electra Elide

09-10-2002, 10:00 AM	#11
bigblockcoupe Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: broken arrow Posts: 212	use straight 30 weight as the break in oil there is no reason to let it rev to 2500 for 10 minutes just start it set the timing and top off the coolant let it warm up to make sure the thermostat is opening correctly and check for any leaksturn it off and let it sit for a few minutes then check the oil to make sure it's full then go for a test drive be sure to alter the cruising rpm alot don't stay at one rpm while cruising and every thing should be fine i would drain the 30 wt at 500 miles and put in whatever you will be using from then on. __________________ Rice Haters Club member #68 '93 Cobra 10.20@135 '89 Gt Coupe 12.20@115

09-10-2002, 10:35 AM	#12
Simi Stang Guest Posts: n/a	SlowGT SlowGT- "I know this is standard break in for a flat tappet cam. I don't think you need to do that 10-20 min run with a roller cam. Hopefully one of the more technically sound members will be on here soon to help us fill in the gaps." I had an old school hotrodder helping me some with my motor install...might explain the break in process I did. Worked fine for me. Sorry it wasn't "technically sound" enough for your standards. Just letting a fellow Mustanger know what worked for me. It's already been said, but obviously you wouldn't break in a motor with Mobil-1 synthetic.

09-10-2002, 10:43 AM	#13
SlowGT Registered Member Join Date: Jun 1999 Location: Columbia Co, PA Posts: 303	Simi I wasn't knocking your post. I was simply trying to say that there are people on here who can provide much more technical explanations than I can and that some of them would probably stop by and share their thoughts. And 'obviously' is right. Just can't figure out why new corvettes come with Mobil 1 from the factory. peace dude. __________________ Old Slow GT New Slow GT--> under construction Latest Addition: 95 Cobra R, #73, bone stock, ~6100 miles.

09-10-2002, 11:40 AM	#14
Simi Stang Guest Posts: n/a	SlowGT SlowGT- Understood. Yeah, how about some of the new cars that come with antifreeze and tranny fluid that is good for 100,000 miles! What's going on there?! Like the synthetics in the new Vette...I don't get that either? They must be using nuclear materials. LOL. Later-

09-10-2002, 12:21 PM	#15
bigblockcoupe Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: broken arrow Posts: 212	roller cams require no break in __________________ Rice Haters Club member #68 '93 Cobra 10.20@135 '89 Gt Coupe 12.20@115

09-10-2002, 12:36 PM	#16
drtbiker Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Mt. Prospect,IL Posts: 474	hmmmm..... ok just 30w any specific brand?.... so 500mi will be ok right? __________________ 87-ford-mustang-SOLD! mods: 3:73's, off road h-pipe, b303 cam in gt- 40 motor w/ Power Plus intake, edelbrock 70mm tb & egr spacer, 72mm C&L, bbk long tubes, tremec tranny, centerforce dual friction clutch, upr and lwr CA's 255lph FP and soon more to come.... when i have money again SOME ADVICE Don't do burn outs in reverse it is very expensive New times with dead hook on dr's 13.27@103 with 2.0 60 foots w/100lb system Fastest time to date: 12.8@113

09-10-2002, 01:37 PM	#17
bigblockcoupe Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: broken arrow Posts: 212	i prefer valvoline 30 wt 500 miles should be plenty of break in some people say 1000 or even 1500 but I have always believed 500 is just right for a roller motor but if you want change the break in oil at 500 and refill with 30wt then change at 1000miles if it will make you feel better just don't take it out and rev the crap out of it before you hit at least 500 miles i'm the worst one about this i have let them run in the shop to warm up and to make sure everything is working right. then I'll take them on a 10-15 mile test drive upon which on several occasions i have gotten into it but i don't recommened this. usually this is the only time i drive the car before it goes back to the owner so i want to make sure it's right. __________________ Rice Haters Club member #68 '93 Cobra 10.20@135 '89 Gt Coupe 12.20@115

09-10-2002, 11:06 PM	#18
HotRoddin cranky old man Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Longview Texas Posts: 683	My 2 cents worth no synthetic until the rings have seated nothing less than 1500 rpms for the first 10 min .... cams not the only thing in a motor that has to seat. I think the two most important things for a new motor are don't get on the freeway and drive a constant speed for a long period ...vary your speed ... and DO NOT let it overheat when its brand new ! My first Hot Rod was started, ran at 1500 for about 15 or 20 min then I went out and ran the piss out of it for about 2 hours (teenager at the time no self control ) then drove it from east Texas to California the next morning ... then out ran most everything on the road out here for 5 years ... when i retired it, it was flawless inside. 406 cubic inches ... 3 two barrel holleys .... very reworked 427 medium riser heads ... 4:56's ....god i miss that car

09-11-2002, 10:10 AM	#19
drtbiker Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Mt. Prospect,IL Posts: 474	nice...... alright guys i have to get my butt in gear and get the motor in already.... i have been to busy working and with school i barley have anytime to work on it hopefully ill get out there to day and start working on it...... later guys thanks alot __________________ 87-ford-mustang-SOLD! mods: 3:73's, off road h-pipe, b303 cam in gt- 40 motor w/ Power Plus intake, edelbrock 70mm tb & egr spacer, 72mm C&L, bbk long tubes, tremec tranny, centerforce dual friction clutch, upr and lwr CA's 255lph FP and soon more to come.... when i have money again SOME ADVICE Don't do burn outs in reverse it is very expensive New times with dead hook on dr's 13.27@103 with 2.0 60 foots w/100lb system Fastest time to date: 12.8@113

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