supercharger/idle woes

girlhound · 09-15-2002, 08:45 PM

Just installed the new p1 sc kit from procharger and now my car wont even come close to idling....Pouring out black smoke...Even if i adjust the fuel pressure down to 10 psi it still wont idle....What would cause this???I cant even get the car to idle to see if its pulling enough vacuum. I have 30 lb injectors and my mass air has been calibrated correctly. There is no check engine light...Where do I start??? Any help would be much appreciated

saleenclone · 09-16-2002, 11:41 AM

Did your system come with a FMU? If so, try taking it out of the equation. A friend of mine just went thru this same problem. Just a thought. Also, check all of your connections, where the tube goes to the throttle body and the such. If you didn't get ALL of the hose clamps tight, that may be another problem. Good luck.

girlhound · 09-16-2002, 07:29 PM

just had an update...disconnected the hose so the tb just sucks regular air and the blower just blows air out in the engine compartment.....Also installed new plugs and wires....It now surges really bad but no longer is it pouring out black smoke.....It still wont idle without me putting my foot on the gas a little. Any suggestions?

302 LX Eric · 09-17-2002, 09:34 AM

Have you checked your TPS reading?

Also, are you using a 'blow-thru' meter, or do you have the MAF meter before the blower?

E

93GTDIN · 09-17-2002, 09:46 AM

Sounds to me like you have a horrible vacuum leak. If you removed your upper for any reason, make sure it is tight and the gasket is good. Did you follow ATI's vacuum diagram to the letter? Vacuum is an extremely important part of your idle.

Hozer 88GTConv · 09-17-2002, 05:11 PM

Hey Hound,
Call Tony Gonyan at Hocus Pocus in Middleburg and he will tell you exactly what you need to know.
1. Did you upgrade your fuel delivery system? i.e. in-line pump?
What psi are you running at?
FMU's are notorious for running on the rich side, but your smoke is indicative of something like a really solid vacuum leak.
e-mail me if you need the number, its in the phonebook and he knows his stuff. He is a renouned driver/mechanic around here and has plenty of track wins to back it up. (and his shop kicks butt too)

girlhound · 09-18-2002, 12:00 PM

Its blow through set up....I have a 190 lph intank pump as well...Yeah It sounds like a vacuum leak but I cant seem to find it...Ive hooked up a vacuum guage to it but It wont ldle to see if its pulling 17-20 psi..

CRocks.sclx · 09-18-2002, 07:16 PM

I had the same problem when the blower blew a vac line off of the rear of the upper intake. Ck all of the vac lines and hoses from the MAF to the intake. It is pouring smoke because the HEGO's are reading unmetered air due to the leak. But also try bypassing the FMU. It could also be bad but you should see high fuel press. ANd the MAF has to be correct for the application-blow through or drawn through. What kind of MAF is it?? ANd is it new?

girlhound · 10-06-2002, 11:13 PM

Its a pro m 75....My car has offically died now...wont start. Its like its being flooded out...or its not burning off the fuel that it does have...fuel pres.. is good.Im really leaning toward distributor...right before it died it ran horrible....If i gave it just a little gas it would slow down and almost die....it is also really hard to start when the engine is hot....sound like a distributor to anyone else?

10-06-2002, 11:19 PM

girlhound,

You said you installed new plugs and wires,when you installed your new plugs,what did you set your gap setting at?

muskrat · 10-07-2002, 05:47 PM

If it was running fine before you installed the blower, and you changed nothing else then you have something either not hooked up or hooked up wrong. You will have to replace the plugs because it sounds like they are fouled. Go over everything slowly and carefully before you try starting it again. Could be something as simple as not connecting the MAF leads.

girlhound · 10-09-2002, 06:25 PM

plugs gapped at 35 thousanths.....put stock ones back in since they are hard to foul out......It has something to do with engine temp....the hotter the car gets....the worse it runs....dont know if its maf o2 or even the distributor when it gets hot...It had some quirks with it before i installed the blower...It was really hard to start when the car was hot...if i shut the car off when it was hot and cranked it back up it wouldnt idle....It was fine from a cold start though...I think all the blower did was make a problem i already have worse due to more air and fuel..IM going to put a scanmaster on it again tomorrow to see what codes it throws...I think im gonna send the maf back to pro m and see if its bad or set up incorrectly

302 LX Eric · 10-09-2002, 06:37 PM

Good idea about pulling the codes. See what you get and then come back here with them.

PKRWUD (Chris) really knows his stuff, so after you get the codes he can probably provide some good advice.

E

347MOM · 10-09-2002, 07:14 PM

When we hooked my SC up and started it up it smoked like crazy. We took it out and run it a bit and it cleared up. The computer had to relearn some of the info it was getting back. My car did it once before when we had way too much injector for the stock motor. After it got hot you would have to floor the throttle to get it to start. I would think its your maf or like the others stated a massive vacuum leak. But the leak should be easy to find. Maybe you could try the propane leak check way. Good luck though.

girlhound · 10-13-2002, 07:28 PM

I replaced the distributor and reset the timing at 10 degrees....All to no avail...I also disconnected the fmu to see if that was it....NO luck...Im almost sure its the maf meter.....It idles and runs great cold....still havent got a scanmaster on it yet...Im having it towed to mustang motorsports in Jax tomorrow....hopefully they will put a computer on it and figure something out...Ill keep yall posted on latest developments....thanx for all the help so far!!!

drtbiker · 10-14-2002, 12:22 AM

im sorry did u say you checked the tps?

later

girlhound · 10-14-2002, 10:10 AM

I never checked the tps cause it might help with the idle but it dosent have anything to do with why the car runs bad when it gets up to operating temperature...Is it true that fmu's are calibrated for certain type injectors? I dont thnk my fmu is correct but even when i disconnected it , the car still ran bad

drtbiker · 10-14-2002, 11:29 AM

yeah u dont need the car to be running to check the tps, you just have to have the key on.
make sure you are getting 5v through your orange wire first, if your not then there is a break in the wire some where. Then probe the green wire with the red probe, and ground the black probe, stock it should be around .70v, but for the best performance you want it inbetween .95v-.97. The way to adjust it is, First you need to take off the tps sensor, Then elongate the two holes for the screws on the tps sensor, then place the tps sensor back on the throtle body, put the screws in snug, keep the green wire probed and continue to turn the tps until you get a reading in that area, then tighten down the screw all the way and check again, Hope this helps

drtbiker · 10-14-2002, 11:49 AM

i forgot to add that my car idled at really good when it was cold and as soon as the car warmed up boom... the tps was not doing its job and there went the idle. I dont think you need special types of injectors for a fmu, just as long as it is calibrated to the right size injector, if i were you i would PM pkrwud, he knows his stuff when it comes to computer related stuff

later

09-15-2002, 08:45 PM	#1
girlhound Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Jacksonville, FL Posts: 22	supercharger/idle woes Just installed the new p1 sc kit from procharger and now my car wont even come close to idling....Pouring out black smoke...Even if i adjust the fuel pressure down to 10 psi it still wont idle....What would cause this???I cant even get the car to idle to see if its pulling enough vacuum. I have 30 lb injectors and my mass air has been calibrated correctly. There is no check engine light...Where do I start??? Any help would be much appreciated

09-16-2002, 11:41 AM	#2
saleenclone Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Posts: 12	Did your system come with a FMU? If so, try taking it out of the equation. A friend of mine just went thru this same problem. Just a thought. Also, check all of your connections, where the tube goes to the throttle body and the such. If you didn't get ALL of the hose clamps tight, that may be another problem. Good luck. __________________ 347, Edelbrock Performers w/ 1.90/1.60 ported and polished, Comp-cam---.533/.544, GT-40 intake, 38# injectors, long tubes, Vortech S-Trim and all the other usuall stuff. Last time at track: 11.49 @ 122.4 with a 1.68 60 ft.

09-17-2002, 09:34 AM	#4
302 LX Eric or '331 LX Eric' Join Date: Jan 1999 Location: Columbus, Ohio Posts: 2,142	Have you checked your TPS reading? Also, are you using a 'blow-thru' meter, or do you have the MAF meter before the blower? E __________________ 1991 5.0 LX Coupe - 40,750 miles 331 cu. in. / Tremec 3550 / BFG Drag Radials 12.22 @ 114.31 mph - w/1.89 60'

09-17-2002, 09:46 AM	#5
93GTDIN Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Live music capital of the world, TX Posts: 324	Sounds to me like you have a horrible vacuum leak. If you removed your upper for any reason, make sure it is tight and the gasket is good. Did you follow ATI's vacuum diagram to the letter? Vacuum is an extremely important part of your idle. __________________ 96 Cobra - a bit too stock. 14.0 @ 101

09-17-2002, 05:11 PM	#6
Hozer 88GTConv Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Jacksonville, FL Posts: 706	Call Tony... Hey Hound, Call Tony Gonyan at Hocus Pocus in Middleburg and he will tell you exactly what you need to know. 1. Did you upgrade your fuel delivery system? i.e. in-line pump? What psi are you running at? FMU's are notorious for running on the rich side, but your smoke is indicative of something like a really solid vacuum leak. e-mail me if you need the number, its in the phonebook and he knows his stuff. He is a renouned driver/mechanic around here and has plenty of track wins to back it up. (and his shop kicks butt too) __________________ 1988 GT Convertible 331 10:1 TW heads, GT-40 intake, MSD, TRW flattops, B Cam w/ 1.7's, MAC exhaust, 24's, 70 TB, 76 MAF, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, Koni's, Anderson PMS, Wideband 02, yatta, yatta... One week with new motor, two speeding tickets...joy

09-16-2002, 07:29 PM	#3
girlhound Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Jacksonville, FL Posts: 22	just had an update...disconnected the hose so the tb just sucks regular air and the blower just blows air out in the engine compartment.....Also installed new plugs and wires....It now surges really bad but no longer is it pouring out black smoke.....It still wont idle without me putting my foot on the gas a little. Any suggestions?

09-18-2002, 12:00 PM	#7
girlhound Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Jacksonville, FL Posts: 22	Its blow through set up....I have a 190 lph intank pump as well...Yeah It sounds like a vacuum leak but I cant seem to find it...Ive hooked up a vacuum guage to it but It wont ldle to see if its pulling 17-20 psi..

09-18-2002, 07:16 PM	#8
CRocks.sclx Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: Columbus,OH Posts: 13	Vac leak I had the same problem when the blower blew a vac line off of the rear of the upper intake. Ck all of the vac lines and hoses from the MAF to the intake. It is pouring smoke because the HEGO's are reading unmetered air due to the leak. But also try bypassing the FMU. It could also be bad but you should see high fuel press. ANd the MAF has to be correct for the application-blow through or drawn through. What kind of MAF is it?? ANd is it new?

10-06-2002, 11:13 PM	#9
girlhound Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Jacksonville, FL Posts: 22	Its a pro m 75....My car has offically died now...wont start. Its like its being flooded out...or its not burning off the fuel that it does have...fuel pres.. is good.Im really leaning toward distributor...right before it died it ran horrible....If i gave it just a little gas it would slow down and almost die....it is also really hard to start when the engine is hot....sound like a distributor to anyone else?

10-06-2002, 11:19 PM	#10
Mustanguy Guest Posts: n/a	What did you gap your plugs to girlhound, You said you installed new plugs and wires,when you installed your new plugs,what did you set your gap setting at?

10-07-2002, 05:47 PM	#11
muskrat Registered Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: va Posts: 35	If it was running fine before you installed the blower, and you changed nothing else then you have something either not hooked up or hooked up wrong. You will have to replace the plugs because it sounds like they are fouled. Go over everything slowly and carefully before you try starting it again. Could be something as simple as not connecting the MAF leads.

10-09-2002, 06:25 PM	#12
girlhound Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Jacksonville, FL Posts: 22	plugs gapped at 35 thousanths.....put stock ones back in since they are hard to foul out......It has something to do with engine temp....the hotter the car gets....the worse it runs....dont know if its maf o2 or even the distributor when it gets hot...It had some quirks with it before i installed the blower...It was really hard to start when the car was hot...if i shut the car off when it was hot and cranked it back up it wouldnt idle....It was fine from a cold start though...I think all the blower did was make a problem i already have worse due to more air and fuel..IM going to put a scanmaster on it again tomorrow to see what codes it throws...I think im gonna send the maf back to pro m and see if its bad or set up incorrectly

10-09-2002, 06:37 PM	#13
302 LX Eric or '331 LX Eric' Join Date: Jan 1999 Location: Columbus, Ohio Posts: 2,142	Good idea about pulling the codes. See what you get and then come back here with them. PKRWUD (Chris) really knows his stuff, so after you get the codes he can probably provide some good advice. E __________________ 1991 5.0 LX Coupe - 40,750 miles 331 cu. in. / Tremec 3550 / BFG Drag Radials 12.22 @ 114.31 mph - w/1.89 60'

10-09-2002, 07:14 PM	#14
347MOM Registered Member Join Date: May 2001 Location: SOUR LAKE,TX (U.S.A.) Posts: 64	Wont idle When we hooked my SC up and started it up it smoked like crazy. We took it out and run it a bit and it cleared up. The computer had to relearn some of the info it was getting back. My car did it once before when we had way too much injector for the stock motor. After it got hot you would have to floor the throttle to get it to start. I would think its your maf or like the others stated a massive vacuum leak. But the leak should be easy to find. Maybe you could try the propane leak check way. Good luck though. __________________ 347's '91 BLOWN AND STROKED DARK GREEN CONV. MUSTANG Girls can too's August "Mare of the Month"

10-13-2002, 07:28 PM	#15
girlhound Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Jacksonville, FL Posts: 22	update I replaced the distributor and reset the timing at 10 degrees....All to no avail...I also disconnected the fmu to see if that was it....NO luck...Im almost sure its the maf meter.....It idles and runs great cold....still havent got a scanmaster on it yet...Im having it towed to mustang motorsports in Jax tomorrow....hopefully they will put a computer on it and figure something out...Ill keep yall posted on latest developments....thanx for all the help so far!!!

10-14-2002, 12:22 AM	#16
drtbiker Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Mt. Prospect,IL Posts: 474	im sorry did u say you checked the tps? later __________________ 87-ford-mustang-SOLD! mods: 3:73's, off road h-pipe, b303 cam in gt- 40 motor w/ Power Plus intake, edelbrock 70mm tb & egr spacer, 72mm C&L, bbk long tubes, tremec tranny, centerforce dual friction clutch, upr and lwr CA's 255lph FP and soon more to come.... when i have money again SOME ADVICE Don't do burn outs in reverse it is very expensive New times with dead hook on dr's 13.27@103 with 2.0 60 foots w/100lb system Fastest time to date: 12.8@113

10-14-2002, 10:10 AM	#17
girlhound Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Jacksonville, FL Posts: 22	I never checked the tps cause it might help with the idle but it dosent have anything to do with why the car runs bad when it gets up to operating temperature...Is it true that fmu's are calibrated for certain type injectors? I dont thnk my fmu is correct but even when i disconnected it , the car still ran bad

10-14-2002, 11:29 AM	#18
drtbiker Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Mt. Prospect,IL Posts: 474	yeah u dont need the car to be running to check the tps, you just have to have the key on. make sure you are getting 5v through your orange wire first, if your not then there is a break in the wire some where. Then probe the green wire with the red probe, and ground the black probe, stock it should be around .70v, but for the best performance you want it inbetween .95v-.97. The way to adjust it is, First you need to take off the tps sensor, Then elongate the two holes for the screws on the tps sensor, then place the tps sensor back on the throtle body, put the screws in snug, keep the green wire probed and continue to turn the tps until you get a reading in that area, then tighten down the screw all the way and check again, Hope this helps __________________ 87-ford-mustang-SOLD! mods: 3:73's, off road h-pipe, b303 cam in gt- 40 motor w/ Power Plus intake, edelbrock 70mm tb & egr spacer, 72mm C&L, bbk long tubes, tremec tranny, centerforce dual friction clutch, upr and lwr CA's 255lph FP and soon more to come.... when i have money again SOME ADVICE Don't do burn outs in reverse it is very expensive New times with dead hook on dr's 13.27@103 with 2.0 60 foots w/100lb system Fastest time to date: 12.8@113 Last edited by drtbiker; 10-14-2002 at 11:44 AM..

10-14-2002, 11:49 AM	#19
drtbiker Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Mt. Prospect,IL Posts: 474	i forgot to add that my car idled at really good when it was cold and as soon as the car warmed up boom... the tps was not doing its job and there went the idle. I dont think you need special types of injectors for a fmu, just as long as it is calibrated to the right size injector, if i were you i would PM pkrwud, he knows his stuff when it comes to computer related stuff later __________________ 87-ford-mustang-SOLD! mods: 3:73's, off road h-pipe, b303 cam in gt- 40 motor w/ Power Plus intake, edelbrock 70mm tb & egr spacer, 72mm C&L, bbk long tubes, tremec tranny, centerforce dual friction clutch, upr and lwr CA's 255lph FP and soon more to come.... when i have money again SOME ADVICE Don't do burn outs in reverse it is very expensive New times with dead hook on dr's 13.27@103 with 2.0 60 foots w/100lb system Fastest time to date: 12.8@113

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