Auto door locks

griffenjam · 10-10-2002, 05:30 PM

I'm having door lock problems.

First, on my passenger side I think the actuator is broken, it makes a lour buzzing sound every time I lock the door.

Do I just need to have it the actuator replaced?

On the driver side the auto locks don't work. What is the most likely cause of this?

dragstang86 · 10-10-2002, 11:23 PM

its probably either in the switch or the actuator. When i got my car they didnt work at all. The switch was bad on the drivers side and the actuator was bad on the pass. side. You can test the switch with a voltmeter. I just took both switches and actuators out of a 4 banger stang that a buddy of mine was parting out.

hope this helps

bigred90gt · 10-11-2002, 01:47 AM

Both of mine went out at the same time. I thought it was a fuse, but couldn't find one that was linked to it. How do you test the actuators and switches? What else would it be?
Thanks
Caymon

82 GT · 10-11-2002, 02:50 PM

To rest the switches, take a voltmeter to the two wires that go to it. You should get a reading when the switch is pressed and no reading when the switch is open.
You will have to remove the actuator and apply 12 volts to it's terminals to check it. The actuator is actually a small motor.

squid · 10-14-2002, 09:13 PM

I just purchased a 93GT with door lock actuators D.O.A. I read about a cheaper fix for the actuator motors on another post. I took their advice and went to Parts Express and bought me a set of high torque actuators for like 4 bucks each. Sure beats 50-75 each for factory models. I then took my door panels off drilled out the rivet holding the old ones in and yanked them puppys. I did have to fabricate a bracket for the new actuators but it was no big deal. I did all of this in one day and they work ten times better than the stock ones. The stock units are a terrible design and if you are going to keep the car give this option some serious thought. It was much easier than I thought.

82 GT · 10-14-2002, 09:51 PM

You really don't need to drill out that rivet that holds that actuator. It can be done without doing that. I still don't know the reason why people do that. I replaced both of mine and never picked up a drill.

squid · 10-15-2002, 11:04 AM

(You really don't need to drill out that rivet that holds that actuator. It can be done without doing that. I still don't know the reason why people do that. I replaced both of mine and never picked up a drill.)

The reason I drilled out the rivets was because I wasnt using the same junk actuators from Ford and made my own bracket.

10-10-2002, 05:30 PM	#1
griffenjam Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Vallejo Posts: 3	Auto door locks I'm having door lock problems. First, on my passenger side I think the actuator is broken, it makes a lour buzzing sound every time I lock the door. Do I just need to have it the actuator replaced? On the driver side the auto locks don't work. What is the most likely cause of this?

10-11-2002, 01:47 AM	#3
bigred90gt 2 Stangs in the Stable Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Baytown, TX Posts: 1,209	WTF???? Both of mine went out at the same time. I thought it was a fuse, but couldn't find one that was linked to it. How do you test the actuators and switches? What else would it be? Thanks Caymon __________________ '90 GT Under construction Best E.T. = Fast @ High Speeds - OK So I Lie. So What!!! 04 F-150 STX 4.2L 5 spd Rice Haters Club Member #128

10-11-2002, 02:50 PM	#4
82 GT Import Slayer Join Date: May 1999 Posts: 2,241	To rest the switches, take a voltmeter to the two wires that go to it. You should get a reading when the switch is pressed and no reading when the switch is open. You will have to remove the actuator and apply 12 volts to it's terminals to check it. The actuator is actually a small motor. __________________ '82 GT 351W (.060)Comp Cams 274* Extreme Energy cam, ported & polished heads w/ 1.94/1.60 valves 10.3:1 flat top pistons,stealth intake, Mallory dizzy,Holley 750dp carb, BBK shorties,Flowmaster exhaust,C-4 with 3700 stall converter, B&M pro shifter,8.8 rear, 4:10's, subframes, electric fan, powermaster alternator, 4 core radiator.

10-14-2002, 09:13 PM	#5
squid Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Dayton, OHIO Posts: 73	I just purchased a 93GT with door lock actuators D.O.A. I read about a cheaper fix for the actuator motors on another post. I took their advice and went to Parts Express and bought me a set of high torque actuators for like 4 bucks each. Sure beats 50-75 each for factory models. I then took my door panels off drilled out the rivet holding the old ones in and yanked them puppys. I did have to fabricate a bracket for the new actuators but it was no big deal. I did all of this in one day and they work ten times better than the stock ones. The stock units are a terrible design and if you are going to keep the car give this option some serious thought. It was much easier than I thought. __________________ 93'GT 5spd. Underdrives, FMS clutch, adjustable quadrant,Flowmasters, Kenny Brown subframe connectors, 3.73 gears, Steeda Tri-Ax. JBA shorties, BBK h-pipe. More to come.

10-14-2002, 09:51 PM	#6
82 GT Import Slayer Join Date: May 1999 Posts: 2,241	You really don't need to drill out that rivet that holds that actuator. It can be done without doing that. I still don't know the reason why people do that. I replaced both of mine and never picked up a drill. __________________ '82 GT 351W (.060)Comp Cams 274* Extreme Energy cam, ported & polished heads w/ 1.94/1.60 valves 10.3:1 flat top pistons,stealth intake, Mallory dizzy,Holley 750dp carb, BBK shorties,Flowmaster exhaust,C-4 with 3700 stall converter, B&M pro shifter,8.8 rear, 4:10's, subframes, electric fan, powermaster alternator, 4 core radiator.

10-10-2002, 11:23 PM	#2
dragstang86 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: baltimore, md Posts: 220	its probably either in the switch or the actuator. When i got my car they didnt work at all. The switch was bad on the drivers side and the actuator was bad on the pass. side. You can test the switch with a voltmeter. I just took both switches and actuators out of a 4 banger stang that a buddy of mine was parting out. hope this helps

10-15-2002, 11:04 AM	#7
squid Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Dayton, OHIO Posts: 73	reply (You really don't need to drill out that rivet that holds that actuator. It can be done without doing that. I still don't know the reason why people do that. I replaced both of mine and never picked up a drill.) The reason I drilled out the rivets was because I wasnt using the same junk actuators from Ford and made my own bracket. __________________ 93'GT 5spd. Underdrives, FMS clutch, adjustable quadrant,Flowmasters, Kenny Brown subframe connectors, 3.73 gears, Steeda Tri-Ax. JBA shorties, BBK h-pipe. More to come.

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