Tips on header/x-pipe installations

[90lxracer]

I just bought a set of BBK longtube headers and a BBK off-road x-pipe. I was wondering if i need anything else....like brackets or bolts, etc. As you can tell i have never done this before so any help would be appreciated. Also does anyone have tips on putting them in? Thanks

[bigred90gt]

I bought my headers used, so I'm not sure, but I thought that new headers came with bolts. As far as the actual installation, be sure you have alot of time and patience. If you run into any problems, someone here can help you. I've heard that the BBK headers are a great fit. If any of the holes don't line up, be sure to have a prybar handy. Other than that, just don't get in a big hurry and don't get too frustrated if you are having trouble.
I got in a hurry and extremely frustrated putting on my x-pipe, and I broke a stud off in my collector.
Caymon

[90lxracer]

to clear things up....is there any welding that needs to be done?

[RED92LX50]

My own experience (from a previous post):
I just put mine in last week - BBK LT Ceramic coated, and Cat H-Pipe. I would say that over the course of 5 days, I spent about 30 hours on the project...removed Strut Tower brace, removed lots more stuff...jacked car up two feet in the air, fabricated a new dipstick mount, fabricated a new air tube mount (the Stage-8 header bolts are too short to hold those)...replaced Motor Mounts... basically follow the instructions...it is a lot of work - but I saved myself about $400 in labor. I didn't need to remove my starter (as the instructions suggest) I just jacked the engine up about 5". Would I do it again...not any time soon! But in time, I am sure I will forget the pain - and tackle it again...

Oh yeah, get new O2 sensors while you are at it, and get the ones with the longer leads to make the install easier (you will still need to move the existing harness a little, but no need to pay big bucks for the "extension wires").

Also, re-torque the header and exhaust bolts after the first few heat cycles, as the metal will expand/contract, and you may develop a small leak if you don't re-torque.

My car is mostly stock - it feels VERY SIMILAR to the way it was before the swap - but it sounds much quieter at idle, a little louder at WOT, and it got rid of my 2K rpm drone alltogether.

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From a previous post by Mike Wolking:
well i have installed more sets of headers than i would like to mention but i will say that the BBK's are a great fit and that your better off sticking to the directions on these. One side goes up from underneath and the other from above. Don't try any shortcuts cause they really won't work. One thing to add is DO NOT use the recommended gasket sealer crap that they want you to affix the gasket to the head. That just brings headaches later. I had to alter/bend my dipstick tube bracket to bolt down in conjunction with the lower center valve cover stud-there isn't much room next to the header tube were it bolted up originally. Now is also a good time to put on new motor mounts. Don"t waste your money with the Energy Suspension Polygraphites becasue there damn near solid mounts and they are exspensive. I recall disconnecting the steering shaft coupler for the installation but can't remember if it was in the directions. Run the car for about ten to twenty minutes the first time and then tighten the bolts and then do the same about a week later. Be sure to tighten the bolts at the collectors and at the back of the h pipe because those seat and loosen up as well
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