Harmonic balancer

Stang951 · 10-25-2002, 05:33 PM

I checked mine this afternoon whioe routing the new cable for the starter and found that the balancer is definitely bad...caput!!!. There is about 1/2-3/4 inch of rubber sticking out.
I was looking at the TD Performance fluid damper but it says external balance. What is the difference between external and internal balance dampers?
Also should I go with the stock balancer for 130.00 (Price for retail, I'm sure I can get it cheaper than that), or should I get one of the fluid type like TD performance or Streetdamper?

TMASTER · 10-25-2002, 07:30 PM

I have 133,000 miles on my car and i noticed the balancer was comming off thr rubber also.. My mechanic friend (a chevrolet guy = Cheap Heap Every Valve Rattles Or Leaks Every Time).... told me to just let it go and not replace it..But I spent the $47.00 anyway, for a stock Harmonic Balancer from a local autoparts store. Its not too bad of a job...

its strait and revolves great!

moc · 10-25-2002, 11:27 PM

like when the factory plastic fan starts getting cracks in it ,it's not to much longer that the motor mounts ,trans mount needs repalcing, and then soon after that the balancer goes

I swear .like clock work. really any new one is better than whats on most late modle stangs . there is nothing wrong with a stock one . It's what you can afford at the moment .BUT if you check it and it's horrifing you !at it close inspection . then your motor will shure apperciate it ,that ,s a mod you will feel

88workcar · 10-26-2002, 08:48 PM

I wanted to ask this from way back. On a brand X piece of crap, we changed fron an 8" to a 6". The 6" was lighter and was a seat of the pants feel better. Is there a performance gain to be had on a mustang by changing the balancer? If so, which one to buy, reguardless of cost?

Mach 1 · 10-26-2002, 10:25 PM

Buy a streetdamper and get on with your lives.....

no performance gain to be had on your typical street/strip motor, just extended engine life form less vibrations (supossedly)

Internal and external refer to the way the engine is balanced. External balanced are balanced using the balancer, internal balance are not and the balancer is then neutral balance.

Stang951 · 11-01-2002, 01:03 AM

Just to let everyone know I bought a Fluidampr, Streetdamper. It seems to be working great. I have noticed much smoother acceleration and shifting.
I also bought a remoing tool and the installation tool. I HIGHLY recomend that anyone who does this at home to get these two tools or borrow them. The puller alos acts as a steering wheel puller so it will come in handy later on. The installation tool I bought is universal and can be used on numerous applications. Including painting the balancer, I think the entire process took me about an hour and a half.
Thanks for all the help everyone. :lol:

:cheers: :flag:

Stang951 · 11-01-2002, 10:12 AM

Bad balancer pics

Balancer pics

Agent_4573 · 11-01-2002, 04:21 PM

Tell me i read your site wrong and that your best time with that car is alot lower than a 14.8!!!! I run my car which is 98% stock and can run a 14.5.

Stang951 · 11-01-2002, 08:10 PM

You read right. I have a major traction issue. I see the other guys taillights even before we get to the 1/16th mile because all I do is spin off the line, even feathering the clutch. This was also at a track that has horrible traction for any car. I was told that even with slicks on this particular track that I would see 1/2 second slower times than at a good track.

If I can afford it after my son is born I plan on putting slicks on the car and trailoring it there.

Agent_4573 · 11-01-2002, 09:15 PM

maybe u should start off in second gear. dam, whats your mph when crossing the line?

Stang951 · 11-02-2002, 01:54 AM

94-95 mph. Everyone I talked to that was at the track agreed that I have no traction, and am spinning too far.
I was thinking of starting in 2nd, but I was told that I would put alot of strain on the driveline by doing that and would more likely twist or break something.
I have decided to get my new rims and drag radials in January so that problem should be helped alot.

10-25-2002, 05:33 PM	#1
Stang951 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Metairie, La. USA Posts: 132	Harmonic balancer I checked mine this afternoon whioe routing the new cable for the starter and found that the balancer is definitely bad...caput!!!. There is about 1/2-3/4 inch of rubber sticking out. I was looking at the TD Performance fluid damper but it says external balance. What is the difference between external and internal balance dampers? Also should I go with the stock balancer for 130.00 (Price for retail, I'm sure I can get it cheaper than that), or should I get one of the fluid type like TD performance or Streetdamper? __________________ Engine: 1990 5.8 / Edelbrock Performer set-up MSD ignition Suspension: Maximum Motorsports Caster-Camber Plates / Maximum Motorsports adjustable lower control arms / FRPP heavy duty upper control arms / Tokico Illumina Shocks and Struts / Ground Pounder Coil Over conversion kit front / Steeda cross brace sub-frame connectors / Drivetrain: Tremec 3550 trans / Steeda Tri-Ax shifter / Spec Stage II clutch and pressure plate / Spec aluminum flywheel / 5.8 in the hole

10-25-2002, 07:30 PM	#2
TMASTER Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: TEXAS Posts: 161	thats too much for stock I have 133,000 miles on my car and i noticed the balancer was comming off thr rubber also.. My mechanic friend (a chevrolet guy = Cheap Heap Every Valve Rattles Or Leaks Every Time).... told me to just let it go and not replace it..But I spent the $47.00 anyway, for a stock Harmonic Balancer from a local autoparts store. Its not too bad of a job... its strait and revolves great!

10-25-2002, 11:27 PM	#3
moc Registered Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ocean City , Maryland Posts: 344	It seems like when the factory plastic fan starts getting cracks in it ,it's not to much longer that the motor mounts ,trans mount needs repalcing, and then soon after that the balancer goes I swear .like clock work. really any new one is better than whats on most late modle stangs . there is nothing wrong with a stock one . It's what you can afford at the moment .BUT if you check it and it's horrifing you !at it close inspection . then your motor will shure apperciate it ,that ,s a mod you will feel __________________ 1991 5.0 NotchBack,Black as of 05/04/09 34,300mi. 2001 LIGHTNING Black 29,872 mi. 05/04/09 (Hangar Queen) SMOKEM UP

10-26-2002, 08:48 PM	#4
88workcar Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1999 Location: Pierre Part, La. U.S.A. Posts: 1,850	I wanted to ask this from way back. On a brand X piece of crap, we changed fron an 8" to a 6". The 6" was lighter and was a seat of the pants feel better. Is there a performance gain to be had on a mustang by changing the balancer? If so, which one to buy, reguardless of cost? __________________ 88workcar 1988 Mustang LX 342. 417rwhp @ 6800. 28 X 10 ET Drag, 4.30s, 10.69 @ 126.43 1.42 60ft. 11.13 @ 127.7 on BFGs 1.72 60ft Rice Hater # 42 To be old and wise, You must first be young and stupid I'm somewhere in tthe middle.

10-26-2002, 10:25 PM	#5
Mach 1 Registered Member Join Date: May 1999 Location: Georgia Posts: 3,866	Buy a streetdamper and get on with your lives..... no performance gain to be had on your typical street/strip motor, just extended engine life form less vibrations (supossedly) Internal and external refer to the way the engine is balanced. External balanced are balanced using the balancer, internal balance are not and the balancer is then neutral balance. __________________ 2002 GT 1993 GT (SOLD) '93 Mustang GT RHC member #142

11-01-2002, 01:03 AM	#6
Stang951 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Metairie, La. USA Posts: 132	Just to let everyone know I bought a Fluidampr, Streetdamper. It seems to be working great. I have noticed much smoother acceleration and shifting. I also bought a remoing tool and the installation tool. I HIGHLY recomend that anyone who does this at home to get these two tools or borrow them. The puller alos acts as a steering wheel puller so it will come in handy later on. The installation tool I bought is universal and can be used on numerous applications. Including painting the balancer, I think the entire process took me about an hour and a half. Thanks for all the help everyone. :lol: :cheers: :flag: __________________ Engine: 1990 5.8 / Edelbrock Performer set-up MSD ignition Suspension: Maximum Motorsports Caster-Camber Plates / Maximum Motorsports adjustable lower control arms / FRPP heavy duty upper control arms / Tokico Illumina Shocks and Struts / Ground Pounder Coil Over conversion kit front / Steeda cross brace sub-frame connectors / Drivetrain: Tremec 3550 trans / Steeda Tri-Ax shifter / Spec Stage II clutch and pressure plate / Spec aluminum flywheel / 5.8 in the hole

11-01-2002, 10:12 AM	#7
Stang951 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Metairie, La. USA Posts: 132	Bad balancer pics Balancer pics __________________ Engine: 1990 5.8 / Edelbrock Performer set-up MSD ignition Suspension: Maximum Motorsports Caster-Camber Plates / Maximum Motorsports adjustable lower control arms / FRPP heavy duty upper control arms / Tokico Illumina Shocks and Struts / Ground Pounder Coil Over conversion kit front / Steeda cross brace sub-frame connectors / Drivetrain: Tremec 3550 trans / Steeda Tri-Ax shifter / Spec Stage II clutch and pressure plate / Spec aluminum flywheel / 5.8 in the hole

11-01-2002, 04:21 PM	#8
Agent_4573 Registered Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: New Jersey Posts: 375	Tell me i read your site wrong and that your best time with that car is alot lower than a 14.8!!!! I run my car which is 98% stock and can run a 14.5. __________________ '89 LX 5.0, off-road h pipe, flowmaster muffs, underdrive pulleys, rebuilt WC T-5, King Cobra Clutch, 65mm throttle body, Explorer Upper/GT40 lower, Lakewood Rear Lift Bars. 76mm C&L Mass air w/ inlet pipe, Twisted wedge heads w/ stage 2 port,polish, MAC equal length shorties, Billet AFPR, 255LPH fuel pump, fresh low end w/ 10.5:1 compression. If anyone ever wants to go to Raceway Park in Englishtown New Jersey, give me a shout. RICER HATERS CLUB MEMBER 87! www.ricehatersclub.com

11-01-2002, 08:10 PM	#9
Stang951 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Metairie, La. USA Posts: 132	You read right. I have a major traction issue. I see the other guys taillights even before we get to the 1/16th mile because all I do is spin off the line, even feathering the clutch. This was also at a track that has horrible traction for any car. I was told that even with slicks on this particular track that I would see 1/2 second slower times than at a good track. If I can afford it after my son is born I plan on putting slicks on the car and trailoring it there.

11-01-2002, 09:15 PM	#10
Agent_4573 Registered Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: New Jersey Posts: 375	maybe u should start off in second gear. dam, whats your mph when crossing the line? __________________ '89 LX 5.0, off-road h pipe, flowmaster muffs, underdrive pulleys, rebuilt WC T-5, King Cobra Clutch, 65mm throttle body, Explorer Upper/GT40 lower, Lakewood Rear Lift Bars. 76mm C&L Mass air w/ inlet pipe, Twisted wedge heads w/ stage 2 port,polish, MAC equal length shorties, Billet AFPR, 255LPH fuel pump, fresh low end w/ 10.5:1 compression. If anyone ever wants to go to Raceway Park in Englishtown New Jersey, give me a shout. RICER HATERS CLUB MEMBER 87! www.ricehatersclub.com

11-02-2002, 01:54 AM	#11
Stang951 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Metairie, La. USA Posts: 132	94-95 mph. Everyone I talked to that was at the track agreed that I have no traction, and am spinning too far. I was thinking of starting in 2nd, but I was told that I would put alot of strain on the driveline by doing that and would more likely twist or break something. I have decided to get my new rims and drag radials in January so that problem should be helped alot. __________________ Engine: 1990 5.8 / Edelbrock Performer set-up MSD ignition Suspension: Maximum Motorsports Caster-Camber Plates / Maximum Motorsports adjustable lower control arms / FRPP heavy duty upper control arms / Tokico Illumina Shocks and Struts / Ground Pounder Coil Over conversion kit front / Steeda cross brace sub-frame connectors / Drivetrain: Tremec 3550 trans / Steeda Tri-Ax shifter / Spec Stage II clutch and pressure plate / Spec aluminum flywheel / 5.8 in the hole

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