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Old 06-21-2001, 11:37 AM   #1
SmokeyDP
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Post Need new Clutch, what should I get?

My clutch is slipping bad. My car is mostly stock and I might add a supercharger down the road, but nothing big. I assume I need a new clutch and pressure plate. Anything else I should replace when im in there?

95K Miles on the car.

Also, if I can't find someone to help me do it soon(Im in Union, NJ & Middlesex, NJ) I will have to pay someone. I just an estimate for $350 labor. Is there anyone in the area looking for a side job who can do it for cheaper

Scott

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Old 06-21-2001, 12:48 PM   #2
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Either do the job yourself, or pay a shop to do it that will stand behind their work. What happens if the yahoo you don't really know does a crappy job?

It's really not that difficult to do it yourself. It'll just take longer. All you need is jackstands, a good jack or two, and a socket set (impact wrench will help).

As for what clutch to get, Centerforce Dual friction. It's got twice the holding power of a stock clutch.

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Old 06-21-2001, 01:51 PM   #3
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Smokey:

Replace the disc and pressure plate of course, also the release ('throw-out') bearing as well as the pilot bearing.
I would seriously consider a new flywheel for peace of mind; a stock iron piece is a tad over $100. and a steel job is about $225.; recommended. A new adjustable clutch cable might be considered too, since you (or your mechanic) will have the assembly apart.

I have a near-stock 5.0 and use the Ford 'King Cobra' clutch with excellent results.
Lots of choices available but I like the light pedal effort and the performance and durability have been excellent, so far.

A labor cost of $350. would be excessive, even in New Jersey.
Figure about 3 hours labor @ $65. per and you have a $200. labor bill, if the shop is honest and efficient. I said: 'if'.
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Old 06-21-2001, 03:39 PM   #4
vande97
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I like the ford motorsports HD clutch, I am just under 300Hp and i bang the shi* out of it and have no problems. And yes replace alll the bearing's check out seals also on tranny and motor they should proble be changed also good luck

ps..$350 is way to much i had mine done for 250$
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Old 06-21-2001, 04:41 PM   #5
SmokeyDP
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is there a write up somewhere on how to do it myself. I am pretty good at taking stuff apart and putting all the pieces together, but I dont want to get halfway into the job and need some special tools that I dont have or can't get some part off.

Scott

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Old 06-21-2001, 09:55 PM   #6
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the only special tool you will need is a clutch alignment tool ( or an old tranny input shaft) to keep the clutch disc centered while you bolt the pressure plate back on, i just helped put one in last night and its very easy to do, but then again we had it on a lift and were using air tools , you should be able to do it just fine in your garage though

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Old 06-21-2001, 11:18 PM   #7
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like fiveoh said, the hardest part of the job is making sure the clutch plate is lined up.... other than that it's a pretty simple job....

and replace the rear engine seal, it always seems to start leakin shortly after you get the tranny back in (coincidence?)

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Old 06-22-2001, 01:10 AM   #8
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You'll need an inside puller with a slide hammer to get the pilot bearing out. You can probably rent that from a good tool rental place.

Doing the clutch is one of those jobs that when you do it yourself you feel really ripped off for all the times you paid someone else to do it. Having a friend there to help with lifting the tranny would make things a lot easier.

I have a homemade tranny jack that I use. It's basically a 4" wide piece of steel with angle steel welded on each end to make an "H". I cut a slot on each end of the angle steel so I could run a webbing clamp through each and and around the tranny. In the middle of the 4" steel I welded a knob that fits into where my dish on the jack goes (it's a big removable one). I also drilled a hole through the 4" steel and into the jack. I threaded the hole in the jack so that I can lock it down with a bolt. It's pretty cool. You just jack it up to the tranny, tighten the straps and then unbolt the tranny. Roll the jack back and lower at the same time. It comes out like a snap.

This reminds me. You can either get a plug for where the slip yoke goes into the tranny, or just drain and replace the tranny fluid. The latter is probably better.

Now that I read his sig, I know that a CF DF may seem to be a bit more clutch than he needs at first, but hey, he's got duct tape. That's gotta be good for 100 extra lb-ft of torque.

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Old 06-22-2001, 10:54 AM   #9
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There is a real good tech article on this site I used in combination with my Chiltons manual to do my Clutch/Trans swap. I got the FMS flywheel (mine had been turned once already) and A-302 Clutch, new cable pilot bearing and throwout bearing. Should have gotten a new clutch fork ( summit sells a fork and new cable combo for $45 or so). Get all the parts from Jegs or Summit. I got mine from a local FMS dealer ( Forte's) and paid about $40 more so I could get the stuff right away.

The plastic alignment tool cost all of $1.95 at Auto Zone they had the throwout bearing, pilot bearing and removal tool( dont even think about pushing it out with grease

You have to drop the H pipe so maybe a good time to replace, we needed lots of torching to get my bolts off all the header studs were toast. The tranny is plenty heavy and is a pain to re-fill some type of hand held pump is needed( I almost drilled a access hole in the tunnel

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Old 06-22-2001, 12:18 PM   #10
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It's been pretty much summed up above. ( I am always late on these things) I put in a King Cobra and love it. When i want to upgrade for more power i will just replace the disc with a CF DF disk after i roast the motorsport one.

Take your time, get a friend to help, lable every thing, and try to have fun.

Light Em Up!!

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Old 06-24-2001, 12:13 PM   #11
SmokeyDP
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I ordered the Ford "King Cobra" Clutch, Should be arriving on Wednesday.

Scott

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